Temperature and heat issues

[TVRJAS]

Since I changed the hoses to silicone and changed to Induction hose my heater is not working as it did before.

I took it to TVR Power last week thinking I may have an air block and even with them being extremely busy he got one of his guys straight on it.

So it's now had their magic done on it and when I left thought it had worked as it was like toast inside after he finished.

However I have the same issue,under normal driving it can take twenty minutes before there is a slight movement in the gauge with lukewarm heat. If I hit traffic the gauge starts to rise and the lukewarm air starts to get nice and hot and gauge will hit about 75. As soon as I start moving again the gauge drops to about 52-55 and back to lukewarm heat again.

When at TVR Power it had been left on tick over for sometime and the gauge was hitting about 90-95 and fans cut in nicely. When I left still in traffic it remained hot and gauge dropped to 75 as I stop started my journey down the Bedworth road thinking Yippee it's fixed.

But as soon as I hit speed sitting between 50-70 for 15 mins and my remaining 30 mins drive home gauge dropped heat dropped.

My question is if the thermostat is broken do you still get these intermittent changes. Of course i'm wondering to myself if it is broken because it all happened straight after the hose upgrades.

Opinions will be very gratefully received..

[jojackson4]

Sounds like your stat is stuck open
And kneads mending with a new one

[TVRJAS]

jojackson4 said:

Sounds like your stat is stuck open
And kneads mending with a new one

Right ok thank you....

Just was't so sure if it was stat problems you would't get anything working at all.

I will call Power again after the Holidays.. Thx Peter

[PRTVR]

The problem could comes from the location of the temperature probe, its located in a dead leg just behined the distributor, sometimes this small tube gets air locked or is blocked so you do not get the true temperature, only when you sit and the heat from the engine has a chance to heat this small tube, when you are moving again the cold air cools it down, some people have moved the wire to the old RR sensor that is in a better location. ( a mod is required to the wire )

[TVRJAS]

PRTVR said:

The problem could comes from the location of the temperature probe, its located in a dead leg just behined the distributor, sometimes this small tube gets air locked or is blocked so you do not get the true temperature, only when you sit and the heat from the engine has a chance to heat this small tube, when you are moving again the cold air cools it down, some people have moved the wire to the old RR sensor that is in a better location. ( a mod is required to the wire )

Hello and thank you for your comment.

I guess I was hoping someone has had the same symptoms and was 1 in the scale of 10 of do it yourself.

That sounds about 5 on the scale and way out my depth

Will drop it back to Power for them to have a look at it and will mention your comment.

Thanks again Jas

[ChimpOnGas]

Once bled correctly you really should have a good heater even at speed.

After seeing some slight coolant temp drops at speed on cold days, I've just gone from the TVR original 83 degree thermostat to a Range Rover 88 degree one.

I know there's a group of old guard on here that say don't do it, but I've done all the checks using on my Camems ECU software (not the unreliable TVR gauge) and it shows much more consistent temps now at speed with the 88 degree thermostat.

And not even a hint of overheating issues, just faster warm up and an even better heater on very cold days.

Those more consistent temps are better for economy too, and very important when running LPG as I do.

I'll keep an eye on it in the summer months but I can't see it being a problem as its never gone over 93 even on the very hottest day at idle in those South of France traffic jams I always seem to find.

An 83 degree thermostat is fully open at 83, my car has always run around 90 so my 88 degree thermostat will be fully open 90% of the time therefore no impact of cooling in the summer.

I was belting along at 90 yesterday for over an hour on a cold & rainy motorway, the cabin was super toasty & the heater was only on half.

Putting the heater to full made thinks way too hot, so I reckon she'll keep me warm even when we start to see the very cold sub zero temps that no doubt are on their way soon.

The Chimaera heater really is excellent, with a proper bleed up & an 88 degree thermostat you should find the car will remain extremely comfortable throughout the winter months.

Just remember the TVR temp gauge is not to be trusted.

Edited by ChimpOnGas on Sunday 22 December 22:42

[Harrytsg]

To add confirmation to the gauge accuracy, mine reads 10 degrees lower than actual when compared to Ecumate (uses different sender) and verified with an infra red thermometer.
Consequently I have set my fan speed controller accordingly.

My gauge always reads lower when moving at speed to when stationary, but the heater is always hot if needed.

[jojackson4]

Mines bang on with rover gauge

[portzi]

jojackson4 said:

Mines bang on with rover gauge

I have purchased a new sender and re-threaded it to suite rover gauge hole. As l know this is the correct sender, l am getting a different reading too when my fans kick in. Instead of about 85 was the norm, now an increase the 95 when l hear the relay click and the fans start.?

Mark

[jojackson4]

portzi said:

jojackson4 said:

Mines bang on with rover gauge

I have purchased a new sender and re-threaded it to suite rover gauge hole. As l know this is the correct sender, l am getting a different reading too when my fans kick in. Instead of about 85 was the norm, now an increase the 95 when l hear the relay click and the fans start.?

Mark

Sorry mark you have the wrong fund of the stick
Rover gauge is the soft ware for the ecu
I'm running the sty tvr sender but it works

[portzi]

jojackson4 said:

Sorry mark you have the wrong fund of the stick
Rover gauge is the soft ware for the ecu
I'm running the sty tvr sender but it works

Ahh cheers Jo, there has been various threads on rover gauge and sender, thought it was another one !!

[TVRJAS]

ChimpOnGas said:

Once bled correctly you really should have a good heater even at speed.

Edited by ChimpOnGas on Sunday 22 December 22:42

Hello Chimpongas,

TVR power did a full bleed for over 1hr as i watched so i know it's been correctly bled.

Thought it might sort it's self out after a few runs but still have the same problem,gets hot on tick over or standing traffic,but as soon as i'm on the move again temp drops back to about 55 and lukewarm air flow.

As above i will give them your thoughts on the 88 thermostat.

Thanks for your comment... Kind regards Jas

[PRTVR]

TVRJAS said:

ChimpOnGas said:

Once bled correctly you really should have a good heater even at speed.

Edited by ChimpOnGas on Sunday 22 December 22:42

Hello Chimpongas,

TVR power did a full bleed for over 1hr as i watched so i know it's been correctly bled.

Thought it might sort it's self out after a few runs but still have the same problem,gets hot on tick over or standing traffic,but as soon as i'm on the move again temp drops back to about 55 and lukewarm air flow.

As above i will give them your thoughts on the 88 thermostat.

Thanks for your comment... Kind regards Jas

Could I ask did they raise the front of the car up when they bled the system ? I have found that
To get all the air out you need to raise the front up, this helps the air escape to the swirl pot,
Thinking about it they probably know a bit more than me about problems with TVR's, and how to fix them.

[TVRJAS]

PRTVR said:

Could I ask did they raise the front of the car up when they bled the system ? I have found that
To get all the air out you need to raise the front up, this helps the air escape to the swirl pot,
Thinking about it they probably know a bit more than me about problems with TVR's, and how to fix them.

Hello PRTVR,

Considering me reading many posts that this was the way to do it.... They did't!

It was one of the reasons me taking it there as I don't have any axle stands,but I would assume they have done this 100's of times and was't going to tell them their job

He did the funnel thing having water poured in for about 1hr,also undid the larger screw on the radiator but not taking fully off and also there was a small diameter valve hose that was tucked amongst a lot of other hoses under the rocker cover on the near side of it.

He confirmed... and have no reason not to believe him,he said there is no air lock now. So it looks as though I have thermostat issues,just seem's a coincidence that is was after having the silicone upgrade.

[PRTVR]

TVRJAS said:

PRTVR said:

Could I ask did they raise the front of the car up when they bled the system ? I have found that
To get all the air out you need to raise the front up, this helps the air escape to the swirl pot,
Thinking about it they probably know a bit more than me about problems with TVR's, and how to fix them.

Hello PRTVR,

Considering me reading many posts that this was the way to do it.... They did't!

It was one of the reasons me taking it there as I don't have any axle stands,but I would assume they have done this 100's of times and was't going to tell them their job

He did the funnel thing having water poured in for about 1hr,also undid the larger screw on the radiator but not taking fully off and also there was a small diameter valve hose that was tucked amongst a lot of other hoses under the rocker cover on the near side of it.

He confirmed... and have no reason not to believe him,he said there is no air lock now. So it looks as though I have thermostat issues,just seem's a coincidence that is was after having the silicone upgrade.

In my opinion, but understand I having not seen the car in person, I think you still have an airlock, possibly in the heater matrix, did they open up the swirl pot ? This is the aluminium pot on the passenger side of the engine bay, it normally has a brass screw in the top, this is the high point on the engine and the place to vent any air, if you have no ramps and no way of borrowing any it might work taking it to a multi story car park or a place with a steep hill, let the engine cool down and take of the screw from the swirl pot, make sure the engine is cold and check the level in the pot it should be full, if not fill with coolant /water mix, also make sure your heater controls are set to hot max, keep running it up and down the bank/hill letting it cool down and checking the level,if you have to keep adding liquid you are displacing the air.

[TVRJAS]

PRTVR said:

In my opinion, but understand I having not seen the car in person, I think you still have an airlock, possibly in the heater matrix, did they open up the swirl pot ? This is the aluminium pot on the passenger side of the engine bay, it normally has a brass screw in the top, this is the high point on the engine and the place to vent any air, if you have no ramps and no way of borrowing any it might work taking it to a multi story car park or a place with a steep hill, let the engine cool down and take of the screw from the swirl pot, make sure the engine is cold and check the level in the pot it should be full, if not fill with coolant /water mix, also make sure your heater controls are set to hot max, keep running it up and down the bank/hill letting it cool down and checking the level,if you have to keep adding liquid you are displacing the air.

Hello again,

Yes they opened swirl pot as this is where they put the very big tight fitting funnel.

Before he started the job the swirl pot was full and the chamber about half full/half empty which ever way you look at it. And after he finished pot full chamber less than half.

But I could see the flow of water coming from the hose and it was constant,he had this running flow for about 25 mins filling at times water and coolant into the swirl pot via the funnel.

Just come back from a slippery drive through a hail storm two times (sideways coming off a roundabout) at hardly any pedal action,have now done about 220 miles since it was done but still always the same. Gauge hardly any movement unless I came to a halt or hit stop start traffic,gauge rises to about 70-75 hot air comes through,on the move again I can see the gauge dropping to about 55 and hot air becomes lukewarm.