Vintage Omega Seamaster authenticity
Discussion
Guys
I recall reading here in the last week or so about someone purchasing a vintage Omega Seamaster and a very helpful poster offered some quite valid advice regarding authenticity etc..
Reason I ask is that I have just purchased on Ebay a very nice looking example but now I am thinking it may be too good to be true as the old adage goes.
Could anyone list the ways of telling a fakey from a real one please? I can offer the sellers pictures to view if it helps (I dont get the piece until after new year)
thanks in advance
I recall reading here in the last week or so about someone purchasing a vintage Omega Seamaster and a very helpful poster offered some quite valid advice regarding authenticity etc..
Reason I ask is that I have just purchased on Ebay a very nice looking example but now I am thinking it may be too good to be true as the old adage goes.
Could anyone list the ways of telling a fakey from a real one please? I can offer the sellers pictures to view if it helps (I dont get the piece until after new year)
thanks in advance
Right: I see that it has ended already and I hope that you didnt buy it? I have a 135.01/001 and a 136.011/0011 and I am reasonably confident that 135s dont have a date feature, whereas the 136s do.
I also think that models such as .041 tend to be gold plated or gold filled...
I also think that models such as .041 tend to be gold plated or gold filled...
Edited by GC8 on Wednesday 25th December 11:19
Kaelic said:
Guys
I recall reading here in the last week or so about someone purchasing a vintage Omega Seamaster and a very helpful poster offered some quite valid advice regarding authenticity etc..
Reason I ask is that I have just purchased on Ebay a very nice looking example but now I am thinking it may be too good to be true as the old adage goes.
Could anyone list the ways of telling a fakey from a real one please? I can offer the sellers pictures to view if it helps (I dont get the piece until after new year)
thanks in advance
That might have been me and I also missed that you had already bought the watch...I recall reading here in the last week or so about someone purchasing a vintage Omega Seamaster and a very helpful poster offered some quite valid advice regarding authenticity etc..
Reason I ask is that I have just purchased on Ebay a very nice looking example but now I am thinking it may be too good to be true as the old adage goes.
Could anyone list the ways of telling a fakey from a real one please? I can offer the sellers pictures to view if it helps (I dont get the piece until after new year)
thanks in advance
This is an excerpt from Omegas heritage site entry
I realise that I have entered 135.0041 rather than .041 but this appears to be a vagary of Omegas site and I have to enter an extra 0 for all of the the watches that I own that I have researched (136.011/135.011/192.027 come to mind and all require an extra zero).
In summary I think that it should be gold plated and have a Cal.601 no-date movement. Without a movement picture its hard to know whats fitted but Id expect it to be a Cal.611 or Cal.613 if its an Omega and if its right for the case (135 and 136 are very similar). Id also expect the dial to be marked 'Seamaster 600' if it says Seamaster at all (the original may well have been marked 'Geneve'), so I suspect that this is a 136.xx dial which has been refinished.
Edited by GC8 on Tuesday 24th December 20:09
Does it have lume, it looks like it does? Should have a 'T' before the 'Swiss made' for hour marker lume and T after as dell if it has lume on the swept hands too. So refinished dial, with details missing...
Years since I've been on the vintage site but do you have pictures of the case back and movement? For numbers. Wouldn't buy any vintage Omega without them myself.
Years since I've been on the vintage site but do you have pictures of the case back and movement? For numbers. Wouldn't buy any vintage Omega without them myself.
It has crossed my mind that it may be a 136.xxx with a refinished dial, the correct Cal,611 or 613 movement and the back of a gold plated watch (whichd be plain stainless)fitted and this may be the only incorrect part.
The model number is only found on the inner case rear and this will fit any 135.xxx or 136.xxx watch. Factor in that the large logo is more attractive than the engraved type usually found then that may provide an explanation and it mightnt be as bad as otherwise suggested.
Id want to see the movement and the serial number though.
The model number is only found on the inner case rear and this will fit any 135.xxx or 136.xxx watch. Factor in that the large logo is more attractive than the engraved type usually found then that may provide an explanation and it mightnt be as bad as otherwise suggested.
Id want to see the movement and the serial number though.
I'd go for some thing like this, with a refaced dial.
http://www.omegawatches.com/planet-omega/heritage/...
http://www.omegawatches.com/planet-omega/heritage/...
Its a little late now, but request a picture of the movement. Also question why its sold as a 135.041 when Omega state that this is a gold plated 601 movemented piece and the watch in question is neither.
If its only the back thats swapped them you can decide what to do, but if the movement is wrong too then I wouldnt buy it under any circumstances.
As he accepts returns where misdescribed, which it is, he cant complain about your asking for pictures as itll save him trouble in the long run.
If its only the back thats swapped them you can decide what to do, but if the movement is wrong too then I wouldnt buy it under any circumstances.
As he accepts returns where misdescribed, which it is, he cant complain about your asking for pictures as itll save him trouble in the long run.
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