Discussion
Hi all
My original plan for this winter was to give my car around 490bhp with the aid of GT28's etc.
im now starting to think about just going to 420bhp with the standard t25's and spending the rest on handling as i think it would be more rewarding to drive. Mine is a standard GTO3 in respects of handling
I know the obvious things are
Tyres (Michelin Pilot cups..But should i go for 265's or 295's on the back?)
New Suspension. Protech the best option?
Adjustable wishbones. just rear afaik?
Corner weighting
Is there anything else that i have forgotten/should be doing?
Jules
My original plan for this winter was to give my car around 490bhp with the aid of GT28's etc.
im now starting to think about just going to 420bhp with the standard t25's and spending the rest on handling as i think it would be more rewarding to drive. Mine is a standard GTO3 in respects of handling
I know the obvious things are
Tyres (Michelin Pilot cups..But should i go for 265's or 295's on the back?)
New Suspension. Protech the best option?
Adjustable wishbones. just rear afaik?
Corner weighting
Is there anything else that i have forgotten/should be doing?
Jules
Are the adjustable wishbones for camber etc. if so then this should be for front and rear. Other way is uprights machined with slips put in so it becomes adjustable.
Would be good idea to upgrade breaks while there and mat e some cooling/aero mods if ur brave.
Here is a question. When people do the cut out mods at the back, do they have to do painting?
Would be good idea to upgrade breaks while there and mat e some cooling/aero mods if ur brave.
Here is a question. When people do the cut out mods at the back, do they have to do painting?
Hi Julian, all depends on what exactly you want to use the car for ie - Road / Track ? I assume a mix of both but you really need to decide on which way you want to bias it.
If it's mainly road with minimal track use then l would suggest a good set of adjustable dampers with slightly higher spring rates along with a good all round tyre like Goodyear F1 or Toyota R1R in standard sizes.
If it's mainly track then still go for the dampers but with stiffer springs, camber mod to front & rear & full geo setup, grooved disc with Pagid pads, cup or 888 tyres.
As for power, if you can use all of the 420 horses with a good handling car you will be very quick.
What ever you do it's a slippery slope
All the best.
Kevin
If it's mainly road with minimal track use then l would suggest a good set of adjustable dampers with slightly higher spring rates along with a good all round tyre like Goodyear F1 or Toyota R1R in standard sizes.
If it's mainly track then still go for the dampers but with stiffer springs, camber mod to front & rear & full geo setup, grooved disc with Pagid pads, cup or 888 tyres.
As for power, if you can use all of the 420 horses with a good handling car you will be very quick.
What ever you do it's a slippery slope
All the best.
Kevin
Kevin, Thanks for the info!.
I would say my car is used 70% on road at the moment, although over the next couple of years it will become more track than road.
I already have grooved discs with Pagid's I wish id paid the extra for the alcon discs now though as im getting some bad vibrations after heavy braking
I think going for handling over power would make the car more fun and as you say, if you can use it all it would be a quick car.
Tux, Can you give me some more info on the wishbones/Tie bars and the protechs?
Bondy, brakes got done last year and i think im going to go for the hard brake line mod. As for cooling, Ive got a spare clam im going to turn into my trackday clam. Going to have all sorts of vents etc in it!
Edited by JBliss on Saturday 4th January 21:12
Hmm must be something else then.. If i brake heavily, i then get some savage vibration under any braking hard or soft. Can be so bad it feels like something is going to fall off. It then takes ages for it to disappear as well. Ive just had the uprated splines put in so not sure what else it could be. Its only done it since i changed to Grooved discs and pagids
Got to put a new inlet mani on, Then ill let Dave thrash it to see whats up with it!
Got to put a new inlet mani on, Then ill let Dave thrash it to see whats up with it!
Edited by JBliss on Thursday 2nd January 23:47
Cups and geo setup will make the big difference to the car... stock suspension is great on the road, not so great on track. I find the protecs good as can change for road to track setup.
Agree that doing the suspension will make a bigger difference than a hike of 420bhp to 490bhp... as Kev says, its a slippery slope
Agree that doing the suspension will make a bigger difference than a hike of 420bhp to 490bhp... as Kev says, its a slippery slope
If I were you, Slightly stiffer spring/damper set up (M400), 295 tyres on rear, Alcon discs not essential, bad braking technique causes vibrations. I went for them as they let me relax, trust the brakes more and focus on driving rather than worrying about my calipers/discs exploding
Front splitter if not already done then corner weight and get tuition.
Lots of track time = beat guys with 100bhp more
Front splitter if not already done then corner weight and get tuition.
Lots of track time = beat guys with 100bhp more
swankBaton said:
Tux, what's the difference with today's Protechs compared to 2-3 years ago? (mine).
Al
Hi Alastair , revised rear damping is the major difference , its stiffer to cope with the Track day springs that are now available , you can have your std dampers upgraded for a cost of £15 . let me know if you need nore info . Al
I recently boned up on corner weighting (done properly). FFS, what a palava! It seems to me that, unless you trailor the car to the exact same track for every outing you'd need to do it all over for each track, and same for on the road. And, if on the road, you'd need to plan your route and calculate how many left and right-hand bends you'd come across. Or have I misunderstood the practice?
AMG Merc said:
I recently boned up on corner weighting (done properly). FFS, what a palava! It seems to me that, unless you trailor the car to the exact same track for every outing you'd need to do it all over for each track, and same for on the road. And, if on the road, you'd need to plan your route and calculate how many left and right-hand bends you'd come across. Or have I misunderstood the practice?
Think your talking about a track specific race set up...If you corner weight a car to have the same weight over both front wheels and both rear wheels with the driver in, you should have a car that will be nicely balanced, not lock up your left front under heavy braking. Be able to apply power early on exiting the corner without getting wheel spin and find the whole car more predictable. Evenly balanced so it responds the same in left or right hand corners. It will help on road too but less noticeable.
mgbond said:
Here is a question. When people do the cut out mods at the back, do they have to do painting?
You dont have to paint after - but it will make you car look like a badly built kit car IMHO.The trouble is when cutting there is a chance that the paint will chip. But even if the paint doesn't chip you will be left with a sharp edge that you really need to round off if you want to do a good job and this will need painting!
2.5bluenob said:
You dont have to paint after - but it will make you car look like a badly built kit car IMHO.
The trouble is when cutting there is a chance that the paint will chip. But even if the paint doesn't chip you will be left with a sharp edge that you really need to round off if you want to do a good job and this will need painting!
Gotcha, so best wait until someone drives up the back of me. LolThe trouble is when cutting there is a chance that the paint will chip. But even if the paint doesn't chip you will be left with a sharp edge that you really need to round off if you want to do a good job and this will need painting!
mgbond said:
Gotcha, so best wait until someone drives up the back of me. Lol
If you cut small then use a large barrel sander in a drill you can do it without damaging paint finish , I then paint the edge of the fiberglass black . Here is mine with a couple of extra holes cut last week .
Tux
TuxMan said:
If you cut small then use a large barrel sander in a drill you can do it without damaging paint finish , I then paint the edge of the fiberglass black . Here is mine with a couple of extra holes cut last week .
Tux
I thought about doing a similar thing as i had just had my car sprayed before deciding to cut loads of holes in it! But after cutting the holes, then sanding- i just didn't like the sharp edges. so i sanded them into a small round, which then couldn't be finished black as there was no edge to finish to. so i had to have the clam painted again!Tux
JBliss said:
Hmm must be something else then.. If i brake heavily, i then get some savage vibration under any braking hard or soft. Can be so bad it feels like something is going to fall off. It then takes ages for it to disappear as well.
Sounds like its your hubs, (most do this so nothing to worry about) just get the discs re skimmed on the car and this will resolve most if not all of the vibration issues. Edited by JBliss on Thursday 2nd January 23:47
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