diff removal

[M50GRF]

Started to take off the diff, complete nightmare 2 of the prop shaft bolts are rounded the other 2 came off no problem does anyone know if the diff will come out with the prop attached looks like it might?

Also are the bolts holding the brackets to the diff 9mm allen.

Edited by M50GRF on Sunday 5th January 16:59

[Geoff Ashcroft]

Hmmm, don't think so Mike, as you need to push the diff forward off its rear mount, then twist it 90 degs so you lower the r/h flange down between the chassis rails first, with the prop end coming out last....... I suspect the pushing forward won't be possible with the prop in place. Not sure there's enough space over the front cross member to keep the prop connected. You'll need to have removed the front mounting plates too, before you lower the diff.

If the car is level, be ready for a slow trickle of gearbox oil coming out of the tailshaft too, when you pull the prop from the gearbox. You'll need to slot it back in and cable-tie it up.

[Geoff Ashcroft]

No, they're 10mm Allen. And they're threaded through the diff casing and have a 19mm (or 3/4in) lock nut on the back. I had to modify a ring spanner to get the top two lock nuts off.

[M50GRF]

Geoff Ashcroft said:

No, they're 10mm Allen. And they're threaded through the diff casing and have a 19mm (or 3/4in) lock nut on the back. I had to modify a ring spanner to get the top two lock nuts off.

Thanks Geoff
Just had another look 10mm is right, bottom 2 lock nuts came off easy top 2 look a right pig so I've soaked them and try tomorrow they look very rusty. Did you cut down a 19mm ring spanner there is not much room up the top.
My plan is to try and get it out with prop shaft attached and all brackets off otherwise I will have to drill out the rounded bolts on the prop shaft, I might take the shocks off to make room as I'm changing them anyway.

[Geoff Ashcroft]

Yes, i cut it in half and ground it down at both ends to give me some options on ring or open end AF fitting.

[Andy_mr2sc]

May be easier to grind the bolt heads or the nuts off?
Good luck getting the centre bush out to change it. The air was blue in my garage when I removed mine.

[VARLEYHYD]

Snap the drive stub shafts out with a flat plate so you don't have to rotate to remove?

[M50GRF]

Thank you for all your help, the diff is now out just waiting for CWP then its off to be fitted, in the meantime I need to clean up mounting points and repaint.

[bananaface]

how is this going ?
any news ?

[M50GRF]

HI all
Diff came back yesterday from Readman Racing very good service from John can't recommend him enough. I have changed the two bushes in the front brackets, took about 1 hour it wasn't to bad a job. The top bush looks very good so I'm not changing it.
I'm going to try and get it fitted and running in the next couple of weeks, fitting it should be a lot easier than taking it out, will let you know what it is like but I have to run it in first.

[bananaface]

excellent.
this is the only mod id do.
if it works.
im all about the acceleration.
looking forward to it.
nana.

[bananaface]

ok thats a month...
u said a couple of weeks.
youve had a month.
whats new... is it in.

[gacksen]

if it is a 4.11 what are you going to do ? just burning rubber ?

[peteA]

maybe he decided to replace the top bush after all....in which case there's probably another week or so to go!

To be honest, if you are planning on keeping the car for any length of time I would replace the top bush - they can appear to be OK but not and going back to change it would a PITA...even more so than doing it the first place! Just my thoughts and having replaced mine on my Cerb I can also understand why you left it!

Diff looks good

[M50GRF]

bananaface said:

ok thats a month...
u said a couple of weeks.
youve had a month.
whats new... is it in.

I've been too busy working away etc.
I'm itching to try her out but it wont be for a couple of weeks even then I have to take it easy for 800 miles or so to run it in.