400SE restoration - few questions

[simonw98]

Hi Guys

My Moonraker black 400SE (ex Elviswedgely) has been in the garage for a few months now and work is progressing well - new wooden dash is in and looks great - thanks to London Carriage Craft who did an amazing job - no more stainless steel!!

New suspension has been fitted (Gaz Gold) and other work including refurb of seats / dash top / door cards etc is under way

A few questions now:-

I want to replace all 4 tyres - what do most of you recommend / suggest - at present it has 225 / 50 / 15 tyres fitted on the original 15" alloys

I want to get Aluminium gear stick and hand brake covers - any idea where i can source these?

The brake pads are all being replaced - any recommendations??

There is a small leak from the radiator so going to replace it with an aluminium unit from Aaron radiators - anyone else done this - its going to cost £300 all in - is it worth doing or better to recore the existing radiator?

Photo's will follow soon!

Looking forward to having it back on the road by April and making the BBWF 14

Thanks

Simon

[Number 7]

simonw98 said:

Hi Guys

My Moonraker black 400SE (ex Elviswedgely) has been in the garage for a few months now and work is progressing well - new wooden dash is in and looks great - thanks to London Carriage Craft who did an amazing job - no more stainless steel!!

New suspension has been fitted (Gaz Gold) and other work including refurb of seats / dash top / door cards etc is under way

A few questions now:-

I want to replace all 4 tyres - what do most of you recommend / suggest - at present it has 225 / 50 / 15 tyres fitted on the original 15" alloys

I want to get Aluminium gear stick and hand brake covers - any idea where i can source these?

The brake pads are all being replaced - any recommendations??

There is a small leak from the radiator so going to replace it with an aluminium unit from Aaron radiators - anyone else done this - its going to cost £300 all in - is it worth doing or better to recore the existing radiator?

Photo's will follow soon!

Looking forward to having it back on the road by April and making the BBWF 14

Thanks

Simon

For tyres, I would choose Toyo Proxes T1R if you can find any in the correct size. The problem you may well have is the limited availability of Z or W rated tyres for these cars in 15" diameter. Some people go with a V rate, and tell their insurer, but I would never go down that route - it's not just about the max speed, there are lots of other stresses put through tyres. No idea on the aluminium, but I used to have one on the gearstick, and changed it for a leather Momo one. Ally gets hot in the summer, and is cold in the winter. Brake pads: depends what you're going to use the car for, but my preference is Ferodo DS2500 front and back - best to match both ends to avoid any unwanted effects from different friction materials. Rad: there is a thread on PH somewhere at present, suggesting they're not great in TVRs, particularly due to cost and leaks resulting from poor installation leading to stress cracks. I's stick with a re-core of your existing rad., and get the otter switch changed for a proper boss which will allow a screw in temp sender.

[jmorgan]

I was tempted by an alloy rad but some asked me how it would be repaired if damaged. This the question that put me off and not really qualified to answer, so I got it recored. Though I hear good things on their ability.

However, I improved my air flow somewhat, there are large gaps around the rad and I filled the top and bottom gaps in in an attempt to prevent the air spilling around the radiator. The side gaps are more problematic.

[jon haines]

Why go to to all the cost of a nice alloy rad when you cant even see it?

[mrzigazaga]

Hi Mate...As said alloy rads are really efficient probably half as much more than the copper but with a re-cored rad and twin kenlowes on a temperature sensor you will not have to ever worry about cooling..Ideally a cowling helps, Sealing it can be an issue but with some heat resistant mastic it might make the job easier..I personally haven't used this silicone so it might be worth trying a little of it first.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/VITCAS-Heat-Resistant-Sili...

The fans could be set for one to come on at first and then if the temperature gets to a set point then the other will kick in..

You could try Leven for alloy gear knob but i know the ones for the Griff and Chim don't fit...

You could try these guys for gaiters..
http://stores.ebay.co.uk/TOP-GAITERS-BOOTS/TVR-/_i...

Cheers...Ziga

Edited by mrzigazaga on Saturday 11th January 19:53

[matt-man]

I had my rad recored at Guildford radiators-according to the guys there they do all the ones for the main tvr garages...

About 240 if I remember right.

Getting the thing out is a challenge!

[Wedg1e]

My car had an alloy sphere for a gear knob, I found it slippery so changed it for one with a leather band around it - much better.

[Mr Tank]

Hi

I have just had my 280iS3 rad refurbed by Kempston Rads, as they and the V8 cars rads are in the nose of the cars an alloy rad is an expense not realy needed.

The interesting thing is Kempston Rads say the rad I had was a modified Range Rover unit.

Andy

[mrzigazaga]

I have a wooden gear knob you can have...It helps you open it up more than normal...



I had this made by a friend and it is the dogs dangles for changing gear...

Edited by mrzigazaga on Saturday 11th January 20:01