Help. Integra won't start!
Discussion
Hi all
After moving my Integra yesterday, and intending to take it for a blast today, she wont start.
The engine just cranks, i've checked and i have a spark and fuel. The only thing I know to be knackered is the battery. Could a completely f
ked battery cause it not to start even though it cranks fine when connected with jump leads?
Cars!
Any help appreciated
Car is a DC2 Type R.
Dan
After moving my Integra yesterday, and intending to take it for a blast today, she wont start.
The engine just cranks, i've checked and i have a spark and fuel. The only thing I know to be knackered is the battery. Could a completely f
ked battery cause it not to start even though it cranks fine when connected with jump leads?Cars!
Any help appreciated
Car is a DC2 Type R.
Dan
You can check for codes on the dc2, from memory:
In passenger footwell up near ecu is a orange plug, remove this and remove smaller connection with two connections , get a paper clip and bridge the two connections of smaller plug turn ignition to on then your engine warning light will flash, have a search on type r owners forum for the codes.
In passenger footwell up near ecu is a orange plug, remove this and remove smaller connection with two connections , get a paper clip and bridge the two connections of smaller plug turn ignition to on then your engine warning light will flash, have a search on type r owners forum for the codes.
Had the same on mine quite a few years ago.
Check for spark by removing a plug and hold it against the block with ht connected and see if you get spark when cranking, if you dont it might be what I had.
Remove the distributor cap, follow ht lead back to find it, remove the cover, with mine the screw holding the rotor arm had come loose and the rotor arm had moved forwards smashing the hell out of the distributor cap. Replacing dizzy cap, rotor arm and screw cost about £50 from honda (about a decade ago). Its easy to change (shaft is keyed), but about 6 months after doing it I had the cat fail due to the unburnt fuel entering it!
Hope this helps, it was the only fault I had with the car in 7 years 70k miles, I still really miss it, such a fun car.
Best of luck
Check for spark by removing a plug and hold it against the block with ht connected and see if you get spark when cranking, if you dont it might be what I had.
Remove the distributor cap, follow ht lead back to find it, remove the cover, with mine the screw holding the rotor arm had come loose and the rotor arm had moved forwards smashing the hell out of the distributor cap. Replacing dizzy cap, rotor arm and screw cost about £50 from honda (about a decade ago). Its easy to change (shaft is keyed), but about 6 months after doing it I had the cat fail due to the unburnt fuel entering it!
Hope this helps, it was the only fault I had with the car in 7 years 70k miles, I still really miss it, such a fun car.
Best of luck
When you say, just moved, do you mean you started it moved it a short distance and then turned it straight off? If so I've have an issue on my swift whereby it will not fire up again easily if so. It floods itself on the second attempt to get it to start.
Only remedy, crank it with your foot down on the accelerator. Only way to avoid this on my car is to allow it to warm up properly before turning it off.
Quite common on alot of motors, I worked as a contractor for the AA for alot of years.
Only remedy, crank it with your foot down on the accelerator. Only way to avoid this on my car is to allow it to warm up properly before turning it off.
Quite common on alot of motors, I worked as a contractor for the AA for alot of years.
Also russeley is right about the service connector in passenger footwell, i used to carry a paperclip in the ashtray just in case. Download a service manual as theyre really good for the hondas, if you were to search for a place where you could get say - ALL CAR MANUALS on google there might be a link;) when I had my issue though no light came up
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