Body Off - Definitive shopping list?

[totalpetrolhead]

Hi All,

Having read some great threads on body-off jobs, I was wondering if there was a definitive list of bits to replace whilst the chassis is being blasted/powdercoated?

My shopping list so far includes:

New shocks - Was considering Protec/Procomp as they were a good investment on my race-car

Suspension fastners - (great sticky Tanguero, thanks!) - Does anybody sell a full chassis pack (Maybe stainless?)

Bushes - Was aiming for polly on the diff, and std metallastic on suspension components - again, is there a recommended supplier who does a chassis pack?

Fuel lines - Is the std chassis line copper or rubber? recommendations anybody?

Brake lines - Possible chassis kit available, what material, or should I just make up my own?

Drop links/track rod ends/ARB bushes - Car has covered 38k miles, shall I just do it as the car is in bits?!!

My aim is to compile a definitive shopping list, inclusive of supplier, costing etc, to be followed by a priority list/photo blog to share once the job is done. I'm hoping to start and finish the job before the MOT runs out in April. Think my wife knows she is fast becoming a TVR widdow!

Apologies if this conversation has been covered before, just thought a replacement parts reference for anybody attemting the job would be useful.

Any advice or recommendations are more than welcome

Steve.

Edited by totalpetrolhead on Tuesday 14th January 22:26

[DJR 7]

Had mine done last year,
You may want to consider engine mounts, diff mounts, additional heat protection around the manifold area and if it hasn't been done already add some plates to mount the seats.
I think you've got most others covered.

D

[DJR 7]

Sorry just realised you've listed Diff mounts.

[m3coupe]

I'll be interested in this post/blog.

I really want to buy a Cerb to strip down and repair/replace everything. Plan was to buy one this year however I have my first child due in July so buying a TVR has dropped down the list a bit.

[Tanguero]

The standard hard fuel lines are steel. After a good deal of research I settled on replacing them with cunifer alloy as being corrosion proof and most resistant to work hardening and cracking from vibration.


I have not seen anyone selling a complete body bolt set, but you don't want to be replacing the high tensile ones for the suspension with stainless. Stick with zinc plated high tensile steel - it is far stronger and less brittle than stainless. Steve Heath used to do a suspension set, he passed the business on to Racing Green, but I don't know if they still do them.


Just for amusement - and bear in mind yours will certainly need different things replacing, my body off shopping list is below (I haven't included sources as it was a couple of years ago I did it all so prices wont be current either.);


Blast, plate and coat chassis £660.00
Clutch hose £33.60
Rivets £15.00
Braided brake hoses £65.00
Exhaust wrap £58.00
Grommets £6.00
Zinc Plating kit £105.00
Veneer £12.00
Varnish £10.00
Mops & polish £28.00
Bolts - body, engine mount, diff cover £20.00
Brake pipes & fittings £50.00
Fuel hard line £50
Brake caliper refurbish £360.00
Hubs £240.00
Front upper ball joint £28.00
Front lower ball joint £18.00
Suspension bolt kit £53.00
Brake disks £276.00
Gearbox rebuild kit £376.00
Aircon reciever/dryer £30.00
Handbrake cable 105" £70.80
Rear ARB Mounting Plates £11.00
Rear ARB Mounting Plates £11.00
Heat shield £40.00
Accoustic barrier £72.00
Hub nuts £23.00
Nuts & Bolts Metric £25.00
Steering pinion oil seal £10.10
Bonnet hinges £34.80
Propshaft bolts £6.00
Oil Filter £8.10
Lower ball joints £21.50
Upper ball joints £27.00
Hubs £209.00
Bush kit £286.80
Hose clamps £25.00
Oil £152.00
Rust remover £43.00
Aircon condenser £116.00
Washers £4.60
O Rings £9.00
Body Bolts £18.50
Diff oil £47.00

Outrigger Metal
3/4" Tube £6.15
1 3/8" Tube x 2m £13.25
Chassis tube & braces £93.37
Jig box section £17.04
Angle iron £7.60
Small tube £5.78
P&P £12.00
Seat support strips £22.00
Chassis tube bends £20.00

[totalpetrolhead]

Tanguero said:

... but you don't want to be replacing the high tensile ones for the suspension with stainless. Stick with zinc plated high tensile steel - it is far stronger and less brittle than stainless.

Thanks Tanguero, valid point. I love the way all british cars still use imperial sizes for braking and suspension - If only it was metric, I could 're-locate' most 12.9 tensile fixings from work

I assume by your circa £250 bushes bill, you went full poly-bush then!

@DJR 7 - Thanks, will remember to add some seat mountings after shot-blasting is done. (Or are they to re-inforce the fibreglass rather than chassis fixed?)

@M3coupe - Cerbera (4 seats) = family hack, My 3 yr old loves it. Treat yourself!!

Edited by totalpetrolhead on Tuesday 14th January 22:35

[DJR 7]

totalpetrolhead said:

Tanguero said:

... but you don't want to be replacing the high tensile ones for the suspension with stainless. Stick with zinc plated high tensile steel - it is far stronger and less brittle than stainless.

Thanks Tanguero, valid point. I love the way all british cars still use imperial sizes for braking and suspension - If only it was metric, I could 're-locate' most 12.9 tensile fixings from work

I assume by your circa £250 bushes bill, you went full poly-bush then!

@DJR 7 - Thanks, will remember to add some seat mountings after shot-blasting is done. (Or are they to re-inforce the fibreglass rather than chassis fixed?)

@M3coupe - Cerbera (4 seats) = family hack, My 3 yr old loves it. Treat yourself!!

Edited by totalpetrolhead on Tuesday 14th January 22:35

Have the reinforced mounts welded to the chassis. Never liked the idea of the seats being fixed to the fibreglass.

Edited by DJR 7 on Tuesday 14th January 22:45

[Tanguero]

As standard, the drivers seat only bolts through the chassis at the front, and the passenger seat is only bolted through the fiberglass both front and back! I welded bars to the chassis so that in an accident the seat would be held in by something more substantial than a penny washer. The bars might pull through the floor, but they would do so a lot less easily than the standard design which has always struck me as being ridiculously unsafe. Can be seen here on the outrigger centre supports.

[camel_landy]

Put the effort into replacing/reconditioning those "hard to get to" components.

Oil cooler
Steering rack
Air con
Ball joints
Fuel filter/pump/lines
Bushes
Clutch master/slave

Most other things are simple to do whilst on a set of axle stands.

M

[greenracing]

Hi, just going through this myself , race tech tvr do sets of bushes and bolts, mark thew has been very helpful, just need to drop him a final list but most parts are in stock and ready to go.

[TimJM]

May as well do the handbrake cable, amazingly with a new cable my handbrake actually works!

[Byker28i]

....anything that's old...


Basically it's all apart and easy to get to to aim to replace/renew as much as possible.

[ridds]

Depending on the condition of the bottom of the tub factor in cleaning materials, filler and paint for the underside as it is easier to do this with the chassis out.

Also, the brake popes are worth replacing and also the brake manifold at the bottom of the drivers footwell.

I'm replacing heavy duty electrical cabling as this is usually damaged from heat.

Clutch master cylinder too.