Oil pressure sender unit - d'oh!
Oil pressure sender unit - d'oh!
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SLB

Original Poster:

273 posts

271 months

Monday 20th January 2014
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Having a slightly erratic and low reading oil pressure gauge I thought I would take others advice and remove said unit and clean up the connections. Despite a dirty and oily front to the engine and being somewhat hidden behind the power steering rack, I eventually managed to remove it and clean it up ok. When I went to replace it I stupidly wanted to put it back slightly tighter than it was in before incase it had leaked adding to the mess at the front. What I didn't realise is that the brass adaptor on the end of the gauge is somewhat weaker than it first appears and just as I had finished tightening it, it snapped.

So after another good clean I left it hole side up on top of a radiator cover inside the house, forget to take it to work the next day and returned to find it had leaked a large amount of oil out of the "seal" around the outside edge. None was coming out of the hole, just out around the edge. I' m thinking if it's leaking like this it must be oozing out all the time once up to temperature and under pressure so maybe my stupidity has helped me source the cause of most of the oily mess.

Finding replacement parts was not easy . The original Land Rover part which fits without an adaptor is a 1/2 Inch UNF thread with 20tpi, but that only goes to up to 4 bar. The TVR gauge goes to 7 bar or 100 psi and the only ones I could find are 1/8 inch NPT thread with 27 tpi. The only place I could find that does the adaptor is Demon Tweeks, but only on their own website and not their e-bay site. They also sell a Smiths 7 bar sender unit so I've ordered both and I'm currently waiting for them to arrive. A bit more expensive than the two wire cheap e-bay ones people have been talking about but at least the Smiths is a single wire version. Hope this helps others. Steve.

adam quantrill

11,679 posts

272 months

Tuesday 21st January 2014
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I did exactly the same thing 20 years ago! Had to use a bolt extractor to get the old bits of union out.

Use a bit of PTFE take when re-assembling to get a good seal without too much tightening torque.

SLB

Original Poster:

273 posts

271 months

Tuesday 21st January 2014
quotequote all
I had to cut down an easy out to get the broken part out, but it came out easily enough. Now to do battle with Demon Tweeks who haven't bothered to ship my order for the last two days even though it was all "in stock".