Bit of advice on studio kits please
Discussion
Hi
I'm just wanting a bit of advise really.
I'm wanting to get a budget studio setup for my spare room and was wondering if this is any good?
http://bit.ly/PduLbx
What does everyone think?
If it's a not worth the money does anyone have any recommendations on what I should be getting?
Cheers
John
I'm just wanting a bit of advise really.
I'm wanting to get a budget studio setup for my spare room and was wondering if this is any good?
http://bit.ly/PduLbx
What does everyone think?
If it's a not worth the money does anyone have any recommendations on what I should be getting?
Cheers
John
Well those lighting kits are all over eBay, and at £225.00 it's probably fair to say that it won't be of the highest quality.
Also, if you've never used studio lighting before you might consider starting out with just one decent light, a good brolly and a reflector. You can do all sorts with that setup and most people with any studio experience would certainly advise on starting simple.
I bought my gear from Lencarta (www.lencarta.co.uk), and you'll find tons of recommendations for their gear over at the Talk Photography forums. Also, buying decent gear (which will cost more initially) means you'll be able to sell it on more readily, or add to it more easily.
Also, if you've never used studio lighting before you might consider starting out with just one decent light, a good brolly and a reflector. You can do all sorts with that setup and most people with any studio experience would certainly advise on starting simple.
I bought my gear from Lencarta (www.lencarta.co.uk), and you'll find tons of recommendations for their gear over at the Talk Photography forums. Also, buying decent gear (which will cost more initially) means you'll be able to sell it on more readily, or add to it more easily.
One thing I can't see is what fit the lights are - eg Elinchrom, Bowens - for the modifiers. That may be an issue if you want to buy more bits one day. As Budfox says the quality isn't going to be great but if you're only after amateur experimentation there's a lot in the toybox. Conversely if you're going up Kilimanjaro on a professional shoot, get proper stuff.
Sell the brollies; softboxes are much nicer. Ultimately, if you stick with it, you'll build your own lighting kit based on what you want to do.
Sell the brollies; softboxes are much nicer. Ultimately, if you stick with it, you'll build your own lighting kit based on what you want to do.
Thank you both for your advice :-)
I think I would prefer the three light setup then I can play with all of them.
I do quite a bit of studio rendering in 3ds max and vray of our products at work, I know it's not the same as real photography but i still have to use three point lighting.... Probably no where near to real studio photography really haha.
I've been watching a few videos on the difference between soft boxes and umbrellas, I'm looking forward to experimenting with those :-)
I don't suppose you know of any other kits around the same price as the one I've seen do you or is the one I've found the best one for me?
John
I think I would prefer the three light setup then I can play with all of them.
I do quite a bit of studio rendering in 3ds max and vray of our products at work, I know it's not the same as real photography but i still have to use three point lighting.... Probably no where near to real studio photography really haha.
I've been watching a few videos on the difference between soft boxes and umbrellas, I'm looking forward to experimenting with those :-)
I don't suppose you know of any other kits around the same price as the one I've seen do you or is the one I've found the best one for me?
John
When I bought my Lencarta stuff I found many similar kits to the one you've shown spread over Amazon and eBay. I have little doubt that they all come from the same Chinese factory.
To be honest, photons are photons, and as long as the lights work then they'll do a job. Just don't expect good build quality or a nice upgrade path or resale value.
I'd still spend a bit more on better (but basic) kit.
To be honest, photons are photons, and as long as the lights work then they'll do a job. Just don't expect good build quality or a nice upgrade path or resale value.
I'd still spend a bit more on better (but basic) kit.
I think you just have to dip your toe in the water and take it from there. Just as we get posts from people asking for the perfect DSLR outfit, they can't know until they've hit the ground and found out. Give it your best guess then sell bits and buy bits according to taste. You don't know the best kit for you and neither do we.
The alternative option is to start smaller but with branded kit (as I did - I bought a two head s/h Elincrhom setup from eBay for £500 and developed it from there).
It will be interesting for you to see how reality varies from 3DS Max.
My accumulated lighting kit comprises four Elinchrom heads but in reality I use mostly 1x400W and 1x100W. Fave modifiers include a 60cm backless softbox, 30cm reflector, 1.5m Octabox, bits of black and white cardboard. And prepare yourself for top jargon like snoot, honeycomb and spillkill
The alternative option is to start smaller but with branded kit (as I did - I bought a two head s/h Elincrhom setup from eBay for £500 and developed it from there).
It will be interesting for you to see how reality varies from 3DS Max.
My accumulated lighting kit comprises four Elinchrom heads but in reality I use mostly 1x400W and 1x100W. Fave modifiers include a 60cm backless softbox, 30cm reflector, 1.5m Octabox, bits of black and white cardboard. And prepare yourself for top jargon like snoot, honeycomb and spillkill
If it's your first time shooting with lights, I would slow down and just buy 1 decent light.
I have elinchrom (Ranger RX and a couple of heads, a ton of modifiers), and can't speak highly enough of them.
Have a few friends with cheap Chinese kits, and in the end they are just junk. They just don't work, or when they do the colour shifts at different powers is just ridiculous.
3 lights is WAY too much. It's a fairly steep learning curve with lighting.
I know you mentioned 3DSM, but when using modifiers, strange things happen, e.g. if you want to beautiful soft light, point your light away from your subject, so only the edge of the light is hitting them. It's called shotgunning. It's beautiful.
Good triggers are a must, unless you want to go wired.
A light meter will save you so much time and avoid incorrectly exposed images.
Check ebay out for 2nd hand Elinchrom kits. There are TONS of modifiers for them. With the no brand lights you will find it impossible to add a softtbox etc to your system.
Another option, If you don't need the mega power, is to use speed lights and the relevant modifiers. Makes your system way more portable and you can use it anywhere as they are battery powered.
Hope this helps.
Check out what Zack Arias does in his "One Light" series. Totally shows we don't use our equipment to its full potential!
I have elinchrom (Ranger RX and a couple of heads, a ton of modifiers), and can't speak highly enough of them.
Have a few friends with cheap Chinese kits, and in the end they are just junk. They just don't work, or when they do the colour shifts at different powers is just ridiculous.
3 lights is WAY too much. It's a fairly steep learning curve with lighting.
I know you mentioned 3DSM, but when using modifiers, strange things happen, e.g. if you want to beautiful soft light, point your light away from your subject, so only the edge of the light is hitting them. It's called shotgunning. It's beautiful.
Good triggers are a must, unless you want to go wired.
A light meter will save you so much time and avoid incorrectly exposed images.
Check ebay out for 2nd hand Elinchrom kits. There are TONS of modifiers for them. With the no brand lights you will find it impossible to add a softtbox etc to your system.
Another option, If you don't need the mega power, is to use speed lights and the relevant modifiers. Makes your system way more portable and you can use it anywhere as they are battery powered.
Hope this helps.
Check out what Zack Arias does in his "One Light" series. Totally shows we don't use our equipment to its full potential!
Edited by tinoproductions on Saturday 1st February 13:26
tinoproductions said:
If it's your first time shooting with lights, I would slow down and just buy 1 decent light.
I have elinchrom (Ranger RX and a couple of heads, a ton of modifiers), and can't speak highly enough of them.
Have a few friends with cheap Chinese kits, and in the end they are just junk. They just don't work, or when they do the colour shifts at different powers is just ridiculous.
3 lights is WAY too much. It's a fairly steep learning curve with lighting.
I know you mentioned 3DSM, but when using modifiers, strange things happen, e.g. if you want to beautiful soft light, point your light away from your subject, so only the edge of the light is hitting them. It's called shotgunning. It's beautiful.
Good triggers are a must, unless you want to go wired.
A light meter will save you so much time and avoid incorrectly exposed images.
Check ebay out for 2nd hand Elinchrom kits. There are TONS of modifiers for them. With the no brand lights you will find it impossible to add a softtbox etc to your system.
Another option, If you don't need the mega power, is to use speed lights and the relevant modifiers. Makes your system way more portable and you can use it anywhere as they are battery powered.
Hope this helps.
Check out what Zack Arias does in his "One Light" series. Totally shows we don't use our equipment to its full potential!
HiI have elinchrom (Ranger RX and a couple of heads, a ton of modifiers), and can't speak highly enough of them.
Have a few friends with cheap Chinese kits, and in the end they are just junk. They just don't work, or when they do the colour shifts at different powers is just ridiculous.
3 lights is WAY too much. It's a fairly steep learning curve with lighting.
I know you mentioned 3DSM, but when using modifiers, strange things happen, e.g. if you want to beautiful soft light, point your light away from your subject, so only the edge of the light is hitting them. It's called shotgunning. It's beautiful.
Good triggers are a must, unless you want to go wired.
A light meter will save you so much time and avoid incorrectly exposed images.
Check ebay out for 2nd hand Elinchrom kits. There are TONS of modifiers for them. With the no brand lights you will find it impossible to add a softtbox etc to your system.
Another option, If you don't need the mega power, is to use speed lights and the relevant modifiers. Makes your system way more portable and you can use it anywhere as they are battery powered.
Hope this helps.
Check out what Zack Arias does in his "One Light" series. Totally shows we don't use our equipment to its full potential!
Edited by tinoproductions on Saturday 1st February 13:26
Thanks for the advice!
Yes this will bey first time with studio lighting.
I get what your all saying about don't get 3 cheep lights get one good one.
I've got around £300 to spend on a kit so do you think I will get one good light, remote and a white backdrop for that?
I've had a look at zacks website, he knows his stuff doesn't he it's a shame his "one light" DVD is sold out I would have definitely bought that to help me on my way with this type of photography.
This is going to be one hell of a learning curve for me but I'm excited about it and can't wait to get stuck into it I just want to get the best kit I can for the budget I have
Thank you all again for your advise
John
I think the answer lies in how seriously you take it and how far you want to go. If this just for fun, get the cheap one - you will still learn plenty and get good results. If you plan to do it seriously/properly/for money get better kit and build it up bit by bit as you can afford it (see also second-hand). Also you don't have to use, say, an Elinchrom softbox on an Elinchrom head, you can buy cheaper third party ones to fit.
I like to have a good range of power at my disposal. For example if shooting full length with an Octabox, you need lots of clout (the bigger the diffuser the more power it soaks up). Conversely if you're doing tabletop/product stuff where the light is only two feet away you need very low power.
I like to have a good range of power at my disposal. For example if shooting full length with an Octabox, you need lots of clout (the bigger the diffuser the more power it soaks up). Conversely if you're doing tabletop/product stuff where the light is only two feet away you need very low power.
Simpo Two said:
I think the answer lies in how seriously you take it and how far you want to go. If this just for fun, get the cheap one - you will still learn plenty and get good results. If you plan to do it seriously/properly/for money get better kit and build it up bit by bit as you can afford it (see also second-hand). Also you don't have to use, say, an Elinchrom softbox on an Elinchrom head, you can buy cheaper third party ones to fit.
I like to have a good range of power at my disposal. For example if shooting full length with an Octabox, you need lots of clout (the bigger the diffuser the more power it soaks up). Conversely if you're doing tabletop/product stuff where the light is only two feet away you need very low power.
MorningI like to have a good range of power at my disposal. For example if shooting full length with an Octabox, you need lots of clout (the bigger the diffuser the more power it soaks up). Conversely if you're doing tabletop/product stuff where the light is only two feet away you need very low power.
At the moment it will just be for fun and to learn the techniques then eventually I would hopefully like to do it more seriously.
I will be converting my spare room into a photography play room so I will have somewhere to go and play, I suspect my wife and kids will get very annoyed with me getting them to pose while I learn what to do haha
Do you think a light meter is definitely needed to help my along the way?
beanie1983 said:
Do you think a light meter is definitely needed to help my along the way?
I've never used one; I make an estimate and use the histogram from there. But you can read about it at http://www.sekonic.com/whatisyourspecialty/photogr...In ambient light photography you use aperture, shutter speed and to a lesser extent ISO to make the correct exposure.
In flash photography you have a fourth variable - flash power. However in practice I set the shutter speed to 1/200th (too fast and the flash won't synchronise with the shutter), set the ISO to 200, set the aperture for the DOF I want and adjust the flash power to get the exposure right. If you can't get enough power or have too much, you can still use ISO and aperture to help out.
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