Grommet puzzle

[oldgeebee]

I thought replacing the wire from coil to distributor was going to be a breeze but fell at the first hurdle - try as I might, I can't pull the wire through the 90 degree grommet. I've tried soaking in WD40 but it just won't budge. The couple of pin holes in the photo might give a clue that it's somehow been stapled into position.



Does anyone know if it's possible to remove the wire without destroying the grommet or failing that where I can find either a replacement grommet or complete wire assembly?

TFAH

GB

[phillpot]

My guess is it's kinda bonded / moulded onto the wire?

Maybe cut open on the inside of the bend, peel or cut wire out, fit new wire and superglue shut !

[oldgeebee]

Thanks guys. I can cut and shut the grommet but was hoping there was some secret that I hadn't discovered. I agree Electronic Ignition would be the way to go though and was planning on doing that once I'd got her up and running with the original system. Is there a good unobtrusive one that hides itself under the cap?

GB

[phillpot]

oldgeebee said:

Is there a good unobtrusive one that hides itself under the cap?

Mine came with electronic ignition, Aldon Ignitor I think?

Been having some mis-fire issues so replaced it, just this weekend, with a "cheapie" Accuspark unit.... only had a short test drive so far but seems to have sorted the problem


Both fit inside the dizzy, only "give away" is two wires instead of one.

[bluezeeland]

As said, the aldon base plate clashes, near the vacuum diaphragm, with the body, that is, vacuum advance will be impaired. But with a bit thoughtfull grinding, this little niggle is soon sorted
(did not have any ignition probs afterwards.........carefull, carefull !

[phillpot]

Adrian@ said:

did you change the cap Mike before developing the issues?

No, as far as I recall the car was running fine when I took it off the road for paint/re-wire/re-trim, didn't touch anything engine wise but not a happy engine when I got it back on the road. Mis-fire seemed to "develop" after twenty miles or so, tried a new coil first because I was using a low ohms electronic ignition coil (intended for a 2.8i) that made no difference so now trying ignition module.

Yes, had to extend wires a little

bluezeeland said:

the Aldon base plate clashes, near the vacuum diaphragm, with the body, that is, vacuum advance will be impaired.

No vacuum advance on mine, mechanical advance looks to be doing something when I put the timing light on


Apologies Op for thread hijack... but all useful advice !

Edited by phillpot on Monday 27th January 20:39

[bluezeeland]

phillpot said:

No vacuum advance on mine, mechanical advance looks to be doing something when I put the timing light on


Apologies Op for thread hijack... but all useful advice !

Edited by phillpot on Monday 27th January 20:39

Yes, sorry for that, Graham, the electronics come with two thin wires and a roundel grommet, which, with a bit of a faff will fit into the body !

@ phillpot; IMO the engine does not rev or turn better w/o a vacuum advance. Basically if you feel a 'hesitance' at 2000/2500 revs you got a mechanical/vacuum issue..........(just my experience..., open to advise...)

F

[phillpot]

Wasn't connected when I bought the car, connection on carb. blanked off (John Wade engine and Adrian knows it quite well) so I took it right off.

Open to advice whether I'd be better off re-fitting for "toodling around" type driving

[oldgeebee]

phillpot said:

Apologies Op for thread hijack... but all useful advice !

No probs - much more interesting than grommets! :thumbsup:

GB

[ausi steve]

I have used an Accuspark for 3 years in mt 3000M here in Perth & I have been so impressed that I have now fitted one to my 1966 289cu Mustang. I have found the TVR works great with the vac connected & the Mustang just the opposite, it takes time to learn what our individual old engines require.

[bluezeeland]

ausi steve said:

I have used an Accuspark for 3 years in mt 3000M here in Perth & I have been so impressed that I have now fitted one to my 1966 289cu Mustang. I have found the TVR works great with the vac connected & the Mustang just the opposite, it takes time to learn what our individual old engines require.

Solid piece of advice from Down Under !
In essence ignition problems tend to be potentially caused by several possibilities, making diagnosis difficult. I am by no means a pro like Adrian (and in general more interested by female curves than advance curves.....)

When I got my car, I did work myself down the list of all ignition do/don't, including coil, leads, plugs and sofort (and the carb on the 'fuel side')

In the end I invested heavily (at least a fiver) in getting new vac tubing, T joints and a non return valve. (dizzy has a 'dressed' base plate Aldon, intitial advance is 13/14°)

Result of the above was that the engine runs as intended, I do know that fettling the initial advance setting can sort of 'cloud' the issue, but it does NOT allow for better 'performance' (using the word hesitantly here, don't shoot me.....)

To be fair Adrian led me in the right direction (which is not unusual....), whilst in the process and blanking the vac was never on the cards!

@phillpot; Why don't you try it, Mike (please report !)

br

F

[phillpot]

bluezeeland said:

@phillpot; Why don't you try it, Mike (please report !)

Vac pipe ordered, will let you know how I get on !

[bluezeeland]

phillpot said:

Vac pipe ordered, will let you know how I get on !

Good man, please do