Fitting wastegate actuators and 380bhp ish modifications
Discussion
Hi All,
I'm looking to go to 380bhp-400bhp soon, and probably no higher.
I have a couple of questions about my 3R-
I'm looking to fit a pair of the forge motorsport diaphramless wastegate actuators, with the slightly stronger springs.
How do i fit these and get the preload right?
Do i match the length with the originals, or do i use a vaccum pump or something to set them up prior to a rolling road session?
Also, i have the following modifications, is there anything else i should consider for a reliable 380-400bhp? I have a Bosch 044 pump on the shelf in the garage, should i fit this in place of the standard pump?
Pro Alloy Intercooler
Pro Alloy Hard pipes and tanks
Front mounted oil cooler
Track day sump
Fuel pump pipes replaced and solid
Fuel pump wiring upgraded
Adjustable fuel pressure regulator
Soon to be fitted exhaust and heat management
Thanks in advance
Matt
I'm looking to go to 380bhp-400bhp soon, and probably no higher.
I have a couple of questions about my 3R-
I'm looking to fit a pair of the forge motorsport diaphramless wastegate actuators, with the slightly stronger springs.
How do i fit these and get the preload right?
Do i match the length with the originals, or do i use a vaccum pump or something to set them up prior to a rolling road session?
Also, i have the following modifications, is there anything else i should consider for a reliable 380-400bhp? I have a Bosch 044 pump on the shelf in the garage, should i fit this in place of the standard pump?
Pro Alloy Intercooler
Pro Alloy Hard pipes and tanks
Front mounted oil cooler
Track day sump
Fuel pump pipes replaced and solid
Fuel pump wiring upgraded
Adjustable fuel pressure regulator
Soon to be fitted exhaust and heat management
Thanks in advance
Matt
Edited by StreetDragster on Tuesday 28th January 18:48
I was advised to set the turnbuckles so you can see half the spigot through the hole when held fully shut, that's all the tension they need. Personally speaking if I had my time again I'd opt for a different pump to an 044 if you're aiming at that sort of power. Mine has those mods (including Forge piston actuators) less oil cooler and fuel lines and is making 378/408 with standard exhaust.
Blu3R said:
I was advised to set the turnbuckles so you can see half the spigot through the hole when held fully shut, that's all the tension they need. Personally speaking if I had my time again I'd opt for a different pump to an 044 if you're aiming at that sort of power. Mine has those mods (including Forge piston actuators) less oil cooler and fuel lines and is making 378/408 with standard exhaust.
Thanks, i'll do that.What pump would you fit? I'm only tempted by the 044 as i have one already going spare.
Matt
StreetDragster said:
Blu3R said:
I was advised to set the turnbuckles so you can see half the spigot through the hole when held fully shut, that's all the tension they need. Personally speaking if I had my time again I'd opt for a different pump to an 044 if you're aiming at that sort of power. Mine has those mods (including Forge piston actuators) less oil cooler and fuel lines and is making 378/408 with standard exhaust.
Thanks, i'll do that.What pump would you fit? I'm only tempted by the 044 as i have one already going spare.
Matt
There has been talk of feeding the 044 with the standard pump but for a road car it just sounds overkill having to look after two pumps.
Oh btw I don't have an adjustable regulator either and mine makes that power. Apparently the only reason it didn't make more was a couple of issues with the exhaust.
I have a Roush in the garage which I've been umm'ing and arr'ing over fitting for about 2 years now but with cracked manifolds twice in 1,000 miles I think it's time to bite the bullet.
Thanks for your reply, i think i'll throw it in anyway as i already have it and see how it goes.
Regarding the actuators, i want to have a 2 stage boost control by putting a switch in the standard boost solenoid line. Ideally i'd like standard 3R power on low boost, so what spring strength should i go for? 0.7 bar?
Thanks to the collective in advance
Matt
Regarding the actuators, i want to have a 2 stage boost control by putting a switch in the standard boost solenoid line. Ideally i'd like standard 3R power on low boost, so what spring strength should i go for? 0.7 bar?
Thanks to the collective in advance
Matt
Plumber1 said:
Do you really need to change the exhaust to get to 400bhp seem to remember lucozades made just over 400 on standard exhaust
Mine made that in Trevor's hands, he detuned it to 380bhp to give the gearbox an easier time. Standard GTO3 with pump wiring mod and 0.7 actuators.My 3R made 407bhp & 405lbft when mapped by Trevor, with PA intercooler, M400 pump & wiring mod, cam timing and exhaust. Everything else standard.
Just changing exhaust alone without any mapping etc took it from 344bhp to 366.
I wouldn't bother with the 2 power settings, there's not a massive difference.
Just changing exhaust alone without any mapping etc took it from 344bhp to 366.
I wouldn't bother with the 2 power settings, there's not a massive difference.
TuxMan said:
I'm pretty sure he had uprated turbos .
Think they just changed the actuators, but might be wrong
and they decatted the exhaust, Just trying to see what little extra mods I might need when car soon takes a visit to a certain place

Need more speed down the hanger straight

mrpbailey said:
My 3R made 407bhp & 405lbft when mapped by Trevor, with PA intercooler, M400 pump & wiring mod, cam timing and exhaust. Everything else standard.
Just changing exhaust alone without any mapping etc took it from 344bhp to 366.
I wouldn't bother with the 2 power settings, there's not a massive difference.
I seem to have rather a large amount of torque. Pump wiring and exhaust and I got 380bhp and 417lbft :/Just changing exhaust alone without any mapping etc took it from 344bhp to 366.
I wouldn't bother with the 2 power settings, there's not a massive difference.
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