This is surely impossible

[dwhitaker]

I am really hoping someone has the knowledge I clearly lack.

Trying to remove my rear caliper, the top hex bolt is obstructed by the hub holder so I cant get my 8mm hex socket onto it except at 30 degrees. I am sure there must be a trick to this.

Can someone also confirm the rear disc is floating, does not seem to move, even with a tap with the Manchester screwdriver.

Any hints appreciated.

[jojackson4]

When you say hex do you mean Allan key / cap head
Disc not floating but is lose when wheal is removed

[Andav469]

Cut or grind your Allen a Key down a bit

[dwhitaker]

Yes, I mean the type of bolt you use an allen key to undo, the caliper uses 2 of them, one easy the other obstructed. I am loath to cut down the allen key/socket - I just bought it! I have some traditional keys, might be able to do it with one of those.

The disk seems rock solid though, how hard can I hit it without risking smashing or bending.

Dave

[jojackson4]

Andav469 said:

Cut or grind your Allen a Key down a bit

Snaped an impact bit trying to get them out ended up getting the gas axe out

[jojackson4]

dwhitaker said:

Yes, I mean the type of bolt you use an allen key to undo, the caliper uses 2 of them, one easy the other obstructed. I am loath to cut down the allen key/socket - I just bought it! I have some traditional keys, might be able to do it with one of those.

The disk seems rock solid though, how hard can I hit it without risking smashing or bending.

Dave

Go easy on the disc until you have the calliper off

[Pupp]

A cut down traditional allen key will just about drop in but is obviously not as up to some welly as a 1/2 inch square drive one so probably will not crack it alone. Last time I did my rear rotors, ended up removing the fasteners that were accessible and then using a good quality big adjustable on the caliper bracket to 'undo' the bracket whilst holding the inaccessible bolt with a set of old fashioned stilsons (sorry), after a good soaking with Plusgas. Once cracked, they just wind out easily.

The rotors just sit on the hub face located and clamped by the wheel studs/nuts (and wheel), so should part with a wallop.

[dwhitaker]

Pupp said:

A cut down traditional allen key will just about drop in but is obviously not as up to some welly as a 1/2 inch square drive one so probably will not crack it alone. Last time I did my rear rotors, ended up removing the fasteners that were accessible and then using a good quality big adjustable on the caliper bracket to 'undo' the bracket whilst holding the inaccessible bolt with a set of old fashioned stilsons (sorry), after a good soaking with Plusgas. Once cracked, they just wind out easily.

The rotors just sit on the hub face located and clamped by the wheel studs/nuts (and wheel), so should part with a wallop.

Thanks Pupp, should have thought of loosening by moving the bracket. Sometime you just need to step away and think a bit - and ask good old PH!

[Pupp]

From memory, there was a surface on the bracket that lent itself to the jaws of the adjustable clamping on it so that it could be levered in the correct line without twisting laterally if that makes sense. The caliper was off and out the way.

It is a particularly pants 'design'. Maybe worth replacing the socket headed fastener with a regular spanner hex-headed type if a suitable hi-tensile alternative can be sourced.

[TVR Beaver]

Can I ask why you are doing this?.. are you changing the pads.. if you are, you don't have to remove the rear bolts as the calipers come apart
Just a thought..

BTW, I've got mine off now and I cut the allen key down

[TimJM]

I have used a spanner on the hex socket shaft in the past when access has been tight. This might work for you and you still get decent leverage. If you have ratchet spanners it makes it far quicker than keep trying to take an allen key out every half a turn.