Discussion
Filled the oil up to the full line on the dip stick night before last. Looked last night and there is a slight weeping of oil from the top two bolts, the ones where the V splits to the two heads at the front of the engine. Checked the dip stick again and it was right on the full line. Never been full before always about half way.
It is a 4.2 with the dip stick that goes round the back.
Is the dip stick telling me "porkies" and has the half litre I've put in, been a litre too much?
Anyone else had this?
It is a 4.2 with the dip stick that goes round the back.
Is the dip stick telling me "porkies" and has the half litre I've put in, been a litre too much?
Anyone else had this?
It can all depend if the car is on level ground and if the engine has been run or not and if its hot or cold.
I always make sure that the car is on level ground and check the oil while the car is still warm, maybe 10-15mins after a good run. This will ensure that the oil has drained back to the ‘sump’ and you get a true reading.
What does the manual say?
I always make sure that the car is on level ground and check the oil while the car is still warm, maybe 10-15mins after a good run. This will ensure that the oil has drained back to the ‘sump’ and you get a true reading.
What does the manual say?
swindorski46 said:
check the oil while the car is still warm
Hmm, now I always thought you should check the oil when the engine is cold, therefore assuring all of the oil has drained into the sump, unless you have a dry sumped engine, which the AJP isn't.
Should be cold in a cerbera. Ferrari's (at least the 328GTS) are different. They have to be warm.
I see what your saying. I have always checked the oil when the car is warm, water when it’s cold. I do ensure that there has been enough time for the oil to get back to the sump.
I am not talking about a ‘hot’ engine just warm, I don’t know why I do that but I cant see it making that much of a difference, as long as the oil has returned to the Sump.
The most important thing is to make sure its on level ground as it is very important not to over fill the system.
I am not talking about a ‘hot’ engine just warm, I don’t know why I do that but I cant see it making that much of a difference, as long as the oil has returned to the Sump.
The most important thing is to make sure its on level ground as it is very important not to over fill the system.
I've done all that:
It's on flat ground
I've done it cold
Run it for a while and waited 30 mins for it all to run back into the sump
Pulled the stick out with my left hand and right hand
Done it at night and during the day
Aligned it and compensated for the moons tidal draw
Pre and post polishing
Etc
Still measures to the max level, and no more.
I just can't see why the two bolts would weep unless oil was sitting behind them?
It's on flat ground
I've done it cold
Run it for a while and waited 30 mins for it all to run back into the sump
Pulled the stick out with my left hand and right hand
Done it at night and during the day
Aligned it and compensated for the moons tidal draw
Pre and post polishing
Etc
Still measures to the max level, and no more.
I just can't see why the two bolts would weep unless oil was sitting behind them?
Racing Tuscan AJP V8 = Dry sump (but not a good system as far as racing dry sumps go!)
Road going AJP6 = Dry sump (similar setup, pitty about the cast crank though)
The oil system in the road going 4.2's and 4.5's is actually quite interesting, its a halfway cross between a wetsump and a drysump - best of both worlds, and the oil pan is appropriatly baffled too...
(too bad about the 101 shortcuts in other areas engine wise, but amazingly she holds together pretty well in comparison to the s6)
You can get a dry sump conversion if you really wanted, at a cost of 6k.
Road going AJP6 = Dry sump (similar setup, pitty about the cast crank though)
The oil system in the road going 4.2's and 4.5's is actually quite interesting, its a halfway cross between a wetsump and a drysump - best of both worlds, and the oil pan is appropriatly baffled too...
(too bad about the 101 shortcuts in other areas engine wise, but amazingly she holds together pretty well in comparison to the s6)
You can get a dry sump conversion if you really wanted, at a cost of 6k.
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