Battery again.

[Mr M]

Greetings all.

I've just had the wheel off the Tamora to check on how easy it would be for me to remove the battery just using jacks. First off, two different sized screws to secure each side of the flap..
another little TVRism that is rather grating with me at the moment - along with the ridiculous place to put a battery in the first instance.

When I had the trickle charger put in by Matt at Sebring, I know he had quite a job pushing the battery back in (and it is wedged in there) - so I've suppose I've answered my own question, however before I get completely fed up with owning my Tamora and putting it up for sale for anyone willing to come and take it, does anyone who has changed the battery just jacking the car up, have any tips ? I would like to keep both my arms as they're quite useful. I also have an MOT due at the end of the month, which at this point in time probably isn't going to be a realistic date to keep.

I did at least get an idea which battery I need.

http://www.tayna.co.uk/TVR-Tamora-Petrol-Car-Batte...

M.

Edited by Mr M on Sunday 9th February 13:20

[shep1001]

The enduroline will fit, that's the one I installed before Christmas. If you are in or near Beds you are welcome to pop over and I will show you how to change it. It's simples IF you have a battery that is the correct size and has the correct side clamping profile. Not all 069 round posts are the same and some won't fit!

You can do it off a jack no problem, just support the car in case the jack fails.

The screws for the cover will be different as one has a machine thread and screws into a threaded recess, the other is a self tapper.

Shep

Edited by shep1001 on Monday 10th February 10:35

[Mr M]

Thanks for the feedback Shep and thanks for your offer - I may take you up on it if I fail. I think the difficulty is getting the old one out.. it's the YUASA one from my findings yesterday. I do put all sorts under the frame as well as two jacks but it's never nice trying to yank a battery out of a hole like that - admittedly I haven't tried yet as I only got as far as looking at it.. but now you've kindly confirmed the battery I'll get that ordered. Patience isn't quite what it was in terms of car faffing :-).

[shep1001]

Mr M said:

Thanks for the feedback Shep and thanks for your offer - I may take you up on it if I fail. I think the difficulty is getting the old one out.. it's the YUASA one from my findings yesterday. I do put all sorts under the frame as well as two jacks but it's never nice trying to yank a battery out of a hole like that - admittedly I haven't tried yet as I only got as far as looking at it.. but now you've kindly confirmed the battery I'll get that ordered. Patience isn't quite what it was in terms of car faffing :-).

No problem just let me know. The way to take it out (or the way I did it is as follows:

1) Remove the terminal clamps -ve first then the +ve. - Don't leave the keys in the car as it will roll the windows up and lock when you re-connect
2) Remove the battery clamp its held in with a 13mm bolt on the same side next to the anderson plug - you can see it from underneath the car and looking down the side of the battery compartment. Clamp looks like this: http://www.tvrpower.co.uk/store/slug/battery-clamp...
3) Tilt the battery up towards the car as the clamping profile on the far side of battery sits under a lug on the chassis
4) Using the battery carry handle or a bit of brute force, lift the battery out perpendicular to the floor and place it down in the gap between the outer edge of the brake disk and the hole you have just removed it from. You can now slide it out from under the wheel arch.

5) Reverse 1-4 to re-fit. You need to tip the battery the other way to locate it under the inner clamping profile chassis lug. If its too tight take the battery back out and bend the lug up a bit with a pair of mole grips.

Use the terminal caps that come with the new battery when removing the old one & putting the new one in so you don't short out the battery. Also whilst the battery is out check the general condition of the Anderson connector and all associated cables & insulation to make sure they are not showing signs of failure wear that could lead to a fire.

Shep

[Legacywr]

I've just been through this with the Sag. The first one I was given was a Bammer(?) but it wouldn't fit, but the Bosch 069 did fit!

But, what a pain in the arse!

[Mr M]

Fantastic, thanks Shep.. that will really be a help. A great source of knowledge as ever.

> But, what a pain in the arse!

Yes, that's certainly how I was feeling on Sunday afternoon, so I put the wheel back on :-)