Anyone using Ultegra Di2 ?
Discussion
So I've narrowed my next road bike down to the following from Canyon. They don't offer Di2 with the Ultimate CF frame, only the top spec SLX. Has anyone moved to Di2 and how do you rate it?
The Dura Ace model is very top end of my budget but I feel a bit weird about going for such a high spec given my level of ability and intended use (weekend rides).
Ultimate CF SL 9.0 for £1899 with mechanical 11 speed Ultegra and Ksyrium Elite wheels (http://www.canyon.com/_en/roadbikes/bike.html?b=3241)
Ultimate CF SLX 7.0 for £2799 with mechanical 11 speed Ultegra and Ksyrium SLR (http://www.canyon.com/_en/roadbikes/bike.html?b=3295#tab-reiter1)
Ultimate CF SLX 7.0DI2 for £2999 with Di2 and Ksyrium Elite (http://www.canyon.com/_en/roadbikes/bike.html?b=3294)
The Dura Ace model is very top end of my budget but I feel a bit weird about going for such a high spec given my level of ability and intended use (weekend rides).
Ultimate CF SL 9.0 for £1899 with mechanical 11 speed Ultegra and Ksyrium Elite wheels (http://www.canyon.com/_en/roadbikes/bike.html?b=3241)
Ultimate CF SLX 7.0 for £2799 with mechanical 11 speed Ultegra and Ksyrium SLR (http://www.canyon.com/_en/roadbikes/bike.html?b=3295#tab-reiter1)
Ultimate CF SLX 7.0DI2 for £2999 with Di2 and Ksyrium Elite (http://www.canyon.com/_en/roadbikes/bike.html?b=3294)
Yep, go for it. Have Di2 on both wet (Ultegra 6770) and dry bike (Dura Ace 9070). Works fine in all weathers, simple, never had battery issues apart from first ride on 9070, where I thought shop had charged it; doh! But that not a problem as it goes into limp mode and stays in the little ring and you can still shift the rear cassette.
The only quirk I have found is that on my dry bike have Q rings and you have to time shifting from little to big ring; otherwise it can throw the chain. Possibly I need to alter set up, but this is "claimed" to be a common issue running oval rings.
Preference is the 9070, but only due to being able to block shift he rear cassette; something you can do on the new Ultegra anyway I think. Shift quality is always precise and swift on either.
Its not overkill for everyday rides at all. if you happy with shimano shifting why shouldn't you buy it? Some anorak will be along in a minute to tell you its a waste of money, but Ignore the Internet reverse snobs sponsored by Aldi, it's your money to do what you please.
The only quirk I have found is that on my dry bike have Q rings and you have to time shifting from little to big ring; otherwise it can throw the chain. Possibly I need to alter set up, but this is "claimed" to be a common issue running oval rings.
Preference is the 9070, but only due to being able to block shift he rear cassette; something you can do on the new Ultegra anyway I think. Shift quality is always precise and swift on either.
Its not overkill for everyday rides at all. if you happy with shimano shifting why shouldn't you buy it? Some anorak will be along in a minute to tell you its a waste of money, but Ignore the Internet reverse snobs sponsored by Aldi, it's your money to do what you please.
Di2 on my dry bike and is brilliant. Could never get the cables to run smooth under the bars on the new 105 I had on the bike and was so frustrated with it. Did some overtime and swopped the complete groupset. So easy to fit and set up. Only issue was using gloves and separating shift buttons, but being a summer bike, wont be a problem. Shifting is in another league now and no weight penalty moving from 105 to Ultegra Di2 groupset, or not enough to notice. Bike is 7.2kg now.
Go Di2 it is worth it
Some points Shimano changed the cable route from out of the side of the STI lever to under the bar tape, this produced a less than perfect gear change, some pro teams machined out the back of the leaver to make the cable route smoother, Shimano then changed the cable by adding a small semi ridged guide tube to the main cable outer to improve it but sadly not as good as Di2.
Di2 go for the internal battery some much cleaner lines on the bike
Di2 go for fully internal wiring again cleaner lines and cables are as protected is can be.
Di2 this has been talked about already but hear is my take on block shifting, Most of the time you should be spinning at optimum RPM say 95RPM so you would in most gear changes just change up or down one at a time. In the UK the hills are a lot sharper/stepper than as France so you may be in say 50 x 14 and turn a corner and be faced with a steep climb with Di2 you can press both leavers and hold the right hand side one change both the big to little ring dropping into the 36 and by holding the right hand button you climb up the block to about the 18t sprocket (I have yet to drop the chain doing this with Di2 doesn't mean it will not happen) same going over the top little ring to big ring and dropping down the cassette.
Some points Shimano changed the cable route from out of the side of the STI lever to under the bar tape, this produced a less than perfect gear change, some pro teams machined out the back of the leaver to make the cable route smoother, Shimano then changed the cable by adding a small semi ridged guide tube to the main cable outer to improve it but sadly not as good as Di2.
Di2 go for the internal battery some much cleaner lines on the bike
Di2 go for fully internal wiring again cleaner lines and cables are as protected is can be.
Di2 this has been talked about already but hear is my take on block shifting, Most of the time you should be spinning at optimum RPM say 95RPM so you would in most gear changes just change up or down one at a time. In the UK the hills are a lot sharper/stepper than as France so you may be in say 50 x 14 and turn a corner and be faced with a steep climb with Di2 you can press both leavers and hold the right hand side one change both the big to little ring dropping into the 36 and by holding the right hand button you climb up the block to about the 18t sprocket (I have yet to drop the chain doing this with Di2 doesn't mean it will not happen) same going over the top little ring to big ring and dropping down the cassette.
I have Ultegra Di2 on my Venge, I have to say for the first month or so it was utter pony.
But, that was all down to the YTS trainee the Specialized Concept Store allowed to put my several thousand pound bike together. (Just in case her indoors should stumble on this thread)
Numbnuts didn't leave any slack in the wiring from the shifters that runs under the bar tape, first big ride, stand up and start pulling on the hoods and out popped the wire losing the front mech. But the store didn't spot that so they re-flashed the firmware of the Di2 and sent me on my way. It worked for about 10 miles and broke again.
Back it went, problem solved.
Next ride, I lost the rear mech, same problem, different shifter, back to Specialized again.
Next ride the left shifter/lever came away from the bar about 10 miles from home.
Back to Specialized
Out on a big training ride for Ironman Wales, 60 miles from home, rear mech hanger falls off, doesn't shear off like its meant to in a crash, just fell off.
Back to Specialized.
It's been 6 months fault free now and I have to say I wouldn't swap it for a mechanical shifter for all the tea in China despite all the grief.
Well as you can imagine Specialized Concept Store bent over themselves backwards to compensate me and make up for my woes. No, they didn't, I just imagined that.
Just make sure whoever builds your bike isn't a cretin and steer clear of a Concept Store and stick to a good old local bike shop.
But, that was all down to the YTS trainee the Specialized Concept Store allowed to put my several thousand pound bike together. (Just in case her indoors should stumble on this thread)
Numbnuts didn't leave any slack in the wiring from the shifters that runs under the bar tape, first big ride, stand up and start pulling on the hoods and out popped the wire losing the front mech. But the store didn't spot that so they re-flashed the firmware of the Di2 and sent me on my way. It worked for about 10 miles and broke again.
Back it went, problem solved.
Next ride, I lost the rear mech, same problem, different shifter, back to Specialized again.
Next ride the left shifter/lever came away from the bar about 10 miles from home.
Back to Specialized
Out on a big training ride for Ironman Wales, 60 miles from home, rear mech hanger falls off, doesn't shear off like its meant to in a crash, just fell off.
Back to Specialized.
It's been 6 months fault free now and I have to say I wouldn't swap it for a mechanical shifter for all the tea in China despite all the grief.
Well as you can imagine Specialized Concept Store bent over themselves backwards to compensate me and make up for my woes. No, they didn't, I just imagined that.
Just make sure whoever builds your bike isn't a cretin and steer clear of a Concept Store and stick to a good old local bike shop.
croftsj said:
I have Ultegra Di2 on my Venge, I have to say for the first month or so it was utter pony.
But, that was all down to the YTS trainee the Specialized Concept Store allowed to put my several thousand pound bike together. (Just in case her indoors should stumble on this thread)
Numbnuts didn't leave any slack in the wiring from the shifters that runs under the bar tape, first big ride, stand up and start pulling on the hoods and out popped the wire losing the front mech. But the store didn't spot that so they re-flashed the firmware of the Di2 and sent me on my way. It worked for about 10 miles and broke again.
Back it went, problem solved.
Next ride, I lost the rear mech, same problem, different shifter, back to Specialized again.
Next ride the left shifter/lever came away from the bar about 10 miles from home.
Back to Specialized
Out on a big training ride for Ironman Wales, 60 miles from home, rear mech hanger falls off, doesn't shear off like its meant to in a crash, just fell off.
Back to Specialized.
It's been 6 months fault free now and I have to say I wouldn't swap it for a mechanical shifter for all the tea in China despite all the grief.
Well as you can imagine Specialized Concept Store bent over themselves backwards to compensate me and make up for my woes. No, they didn't, I just imagined that.
Just make sure whoever builds your bike isn't a cretin and steer clear of a Concept Store and stick to a good old local bike shop.
Judging where you live, its a local shop to both of us. Personally I have never had a bike shop fix my bikes for over 20 years. I just don't trust them. Maybe they are given a time frame to do jobs rather than a bit more time for care and attention detail. Di2 is so easy to fit. Just plug it in and off you go. Its not rocket science. It was a bit daunting to see it all laid out, but an hour and a couple of head scratches (Merlin gave me 2 of the same parts !!)and it just went together. For a bikeshop to fail in completing it and having probably done a few before yours is pretty appauling service. But, that was all down to the YTS trainee the Specialized Concept Store allowed to put my several thousand pound bike together. (Just in case her indoors should stumble on this thread)
Numbnuts didn't leave any slack in the wiring from the shifters that runs under the bar tape, first big ride, stand up and start pulling on the hoods and out popped the wire losing the front mech. But the store didn't spot that so they re-flashed the firmware of the Di2 and sent me on my way. It worked for about 10 miles and broke again.
Back it went, problem solved.
Next ride, I lost the rear mech, same problem, different shifter, back to Specialized again.
Next ride the left shifter/lever came away from the bar about 10 miles from home.
Back to Specialized
Out on a big training ride for Ironman Wales, 60 miles from home, rear mech hanger falls off, doesn't shear off like its meant to in a crash, just fell off.
Back to Specialized.
It's been 6 months fault free now and I have to say I wouldn't swap it for a mechanical shifter for all the tea in China despite all the grief.
Well as you can imagine Specialized Concept Store bent over themselves backwards to compensate me and make up for my woes. No, they didn't, I just imagined that.
Just make sure whoever builds your bike isn't a cretin and steer clear of a Concept Store and stick to a good old local bike shop.
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