Pinto swap to Duratec in a Westfield
Discussion
Hi Motco
Good duratecs seem to be going for £14/15 k
so i think its worth spending £3.5k (if i have too)
It would make my expenditure on my 2001 kit to around £8.5k
And I have no current intention of selling her ....
Workwise it looks fairly straightforward...
Parts cost however are high for us mere mortals
I'm thinking low mileage 2.0 Duratec from a rear smashed up Fiesta ST (150bhp)
That would also give Ecu, solid flywheel, alternator and starter motor.
RWD do a cable bell housing to connect it to a Type 9 gearbox.
Oh did i mention I've already aquired all of the above
So with a suitable clutch, modified exhaust manifold, injection pump, modified throttle pedal(fly by wire), engine mounts and coolant pipes it would be a reasonable base conversion.
Then later on chuck on £2+k worth of throttle bodies and New Ecu for maybe 200bhp ?
The main issues seem to be taking the coolant from the back of the engine due to a lack of clearance
and fitting a baffled lowered wet / dry sump ... these cost serious money ....
Anyone got any ideas to help keep the costs down ?
Good duratecs seem to be going for £14/15 k
so i think its worth spending £3.5k (if i have too)
It would make my expenditure on my 2001 kit to around £8.5k
And I have no current intention of selling her ....
Workwise it looks fairly straightforward...
Parts cost however are high for us mere mortals
I'm thinking low mileage 2.0 Duratec from a rear smashed up Fiesta ST (150bhp)
That would also give Ecu, solid flywheel, alternator and starter motor.
RWD do a cable bell housing to connect it to a Type 9 gearbox.
Oh did i mention I've already aquired all of the above
So with a suitable clutch, modified exhaust manifold, injection pump, modified throttle pedal(fly by wire), engine mounts and coolant pipes it would be a reasonable base conversion.
Then later on chuck on £2+k worth of throttle bodies and New Ecu for maybe 200bhp ?
The main issues seem to be taking the coolant from the back of the engine due to a lack of clearance
and fitting a baffled lowered wet / dry sump ... these cost serious money ....
Anyone got any ideas to help keep the costs down ?
Motco - The Duratec is a great engine, a bit tall (watch for bonnet clearance) but can be expensive option. If I were in your position I'd be looking at a Zetec swap with the Chester Sportscars bike carb conversion, possibly using an ST170 version if not the black top and silver top gio very well (has a silver top with this kit in my Fury). The beauty of this swap is that other than the exhaust being on the other side there is not a lot else that needs changing, you can use your existing fuel pump and gearbox including bell housing. Budget would be about £1500.
As for the duratec swap here an intial list of the major item off the top of my head to kick things off -
Engine mounts
Decide on a fueling system - most prople go for throttle bodies but there are carb (webber or bike) kits out there.
Throttle bodies will need a high pressure fuel pump and a return pipe plumbing in back to the tank - may need a swirl pot as well.
Carbs may need an uprated fuel pump and if using bike carbs may need a second fuel regulator (down to 2 PSI).
Both will need a new ECU to control spark and fuel (in the case of TBs) - the usual emerald/omex suspects are popular - bike carb kit plus megajolt/nodiz will set you back around £1k. Webber carbs or throttle bodies is closer to £2k.
New Bell housing, the duratech does not have the same bolt pattern as the Type 9 or MT75 gearboxes usually found in westies
Air filters
Exhaust manifold
Sort out the front pully once the steering and AC pump are removed (not sure about the duratec but the zetec needs a new water pump as the deletion of the other ancilliaries ends up turning the water pump the wrong way)
This is not exhaustive and I am sure many others will chip in but these are the main items. I would budget between £3k and £4k for the swap if using new parts and a SH engine, again my opinion so take it as you find it and do your own budget build up before embarking on this. You may also need to budget for a rolling road session to set up the engine.
Just to throw another spanner in the mix have you thought about the MX5 1.8 engine and gear box swap - 140hp and a better gearbox and a much cheaper swap as the ECU/injection system is easy to plumb in than a duratec (difficult to use the duratec eu as it has all sorts of anti-theft imobiliser guff in it that needs the keys and ignition barrel encoded), this is also an option on the newer westies so there should be some pictures/knowledge about of the chassis changes, just a thought.
Edit -
Aidey2000, our posts crossed in the ether, but basically saying the same thing. May be worth looking into the ECU side of things, as far as I understand it, Ford ECU's post 1995 (EECV) need the keys and the inductive loop system on the ignition key barrel to work and then the key, barrel and ecu had to be synched/coded if they came from different cars (may be ok if they are all from the same car) so you may want to add keys and ignition lock/barrel to your donor list. Also running the donor ecu you will need the lambda sensor and MAFF sensor and bear in mind that running a tubular exhaust and hogh flow filter (deleting the various air boxes) may upset it a bit so may not run as in the donor car.
As for the duratec swap here an intial list of the major item off the top of my head to kick things off -
Engine mounts
Decide on a fueling system - most prople go for throttle bodies but there are carb (webber or bike) kits out there.
Throttle bodies will need a high pressure fuel pump and a return pipe plumbing in back to the tank - may need a swirl pot as well.
Carbs may need an uprated fuel pump and if using bike carbs may need a second fuel regulator (down to 2 PSI).
Both will need a new ECU to control spark and fuel (in the case of TBs) - the usual emerald/omex suspects are popular - bike carb kit plus megajolt/nodiz will set you back around £1k. Webber carbs or throttle bodies is closer to £2k.
New Bell housing, the duratech does not have the same bolt pattern as the Type 9 or MT75 gearboxes usually found in westies
Air filters
Exhaust manifold
Sort out the front pully once the steering and AC pump are removed (not sure about the duratec but the zetec needs a new water pump as the deletion of the other ancilliaries ends up turning the water pump the wrong way)
This is not exhaustive and I am sure many others will chip in but these are the main items. I would budget between £3k and £4k for the swap if using new parts and a SH engine, again my opinion so take it as you find it and do your own budget build up before embarking on this. You may also need to budget for a rolling road session to set up the engine.
Just to throw another spanner in the mix have you thought about the MX5 1.8 engine and gear box swap - 140hp and a better gearbox and a much cheaper swap as the ECU/injection system is easy to plumb in than a duratec (difficult to use the duratec eu as it has all sorts of anti-theft imobiliser guff in it that needs the keys and ignition barrel encoded), this is also an option on the newer westies so there should be some pictures/knowledge about of the chassis changes, just a thought.
Edit -
Aidey2000, our posts crossed in the ether, but basically saying the same thing. May be worth looking into the ECU side of things, as far as I understand it, Ford ECU's post 1995 (EECV) need the keys and the inductive loop system on the ignition key barrel to work and then the key, barrel and ecu had to be synched/coded if they came from different cars (may be ok if they are all from the same car) so you may want to add keys and ignition lock/barrel to your donor list. Also running the donor ecu you will need the lambda sensor and MAFF sensor and bear in mind that running a tubular exhaust and hogh flow filter (deleting the various air boxes) may upset it a bit so may not run as in the donor car.
Edited by ugg10 on Monday 17th February 14:49
I have had my Pinto engined SEiW since 2003 so perhaps selling it and getting something a little better might be the easiest (laziest) option. My son, who nominally shares it with me, keeps agitating for a bike engined car but so far I have said I don't fancy driving a BEC on the road. Since I now SORN the Westfield over winter and may leave it on SORN all the time and trailer it to trackdays, I am a little more amenable to the idea of a BEC. We'll see...
Hi Ugg10
I managed to snaffle "A key and ignition lock/barrel, donor ecu, lambda sensor, MAFF sensor and air boxes". I plan to reuse it all just to get her to run, then upgrade as budget allows.
I totally agree that it may well get upset though with the exhaust system breathing easier.
Maybe adding some extra padding would help with this ...but time will tell ...
I was hoping the Ford ECU would sort itself out but I'm not normally that lucky
I managed to snaffle "A key and ignition lock/barrel, donor ecu, lambda sensor, MAFF sensor and air boxes". I plan to reuse it all just to get her to run, then upgrade as budget allows.
I totally agree that it may well get upset though with the exhaust system breathing easier.
Maybe adding some extra padding would help with this ...but time will tell ...
I was hoping the Ford ECU would sort itself out but I'm not normally that lucky
Hi Motco,
Totally agree with you about bike engined cars on the road ...
Absolutely brilliant on the track though ....
I did bounce it around for quite sometime to go to a high powered bike engine for road use
but I want to do touring with her as well so I'm trying for a good compromise between tractability and power.
Totally agree with you about bike engined cars on the road ...
Absolutely brilliant on the track though ....
I did bounce it around for quite sometime to go to a high powered bike engine for road use
but I want to do touring with her as well so I'm trying for a good compromise between tractability and power.
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