Diy Ignition service.. advice
Discussion
Car running well and had recent 6k service but as noted on prev threads the ignition parts are infrequently replaced. Reckon the coil, dizzy cap, rota ect are atleast 8 years old.
Do you need to keep to Lucas, Bosch ect parts.
Seen full dizzys with ignition module and vac advance for £150. Think worth changing the dizzy in one go? Instead of rota arm, cap etc. Replacing the dizzy too complex for a novice?
List will be dizzy cap, rota arm, 100 amp fuse, ignition module, coil. Plugs changed a year ago and new leads ? Need new plugs?
Thanks
Do you need to keep to Lucas, Bosch ect parts.
Seen full dizzys with ignition module and vac advance for £150. Think worth changing the dizzy in one go? Instead of rota arm, cap etc. Replacing the dizzy too complex for a novice?
List will be dizzy cap, rota arm, 100 amp fuse, ignition module, coil. Plugs changed a year ago and new leads ? Need new plugs?
Thanks
Age is not so much the issue with the dizzy cap and rotor, but how badly burnt the end of the rotor and the dizzy cap pick up points are. If the items are eroded, and the inside of the cap is mucky, then replace them. I had a Golf from new with full dealer service, and it ground to halt at 75k miles when the original cap and arm failed, so they go a fair way. HT leads fail due to heat and HT stress, so 5 years would be a reasonable life span. Coils don't need to be a service item, but I think the Lucas units don't last as long as the Bosch ones if you fancy a new one.
The Bosch coil is the one you want, Google the Land Rover part number PRC6574G.
Distributor caps are normally pretty contestant quality across the brands, the Land Rover part number is STC8368G.
Rotor arms are your biggest challenge, be careful here as there's some real junk out there and you cant tell just by looking at them.
The traditional solution was to locate an ORIGINAL Lucas (DRB195C) rotor arm, but these are getting extremely difficult to source these days, do not be fooled by a Lucas box, new Lucas is not the same as old Lucas.
If you do find a genuine new old stock Lucas rotor arm expect to pay £25, which seems crazy for a rotor arm but the truth is it's well worth it, if you are offered a Lucas rotor arm for less than this it will be the new Lucas brand which is just a branding exercise & it will definitely be an utterly rubbish Indian made rotor where carbon was used to give then the rotor the black colour.
Carbon is a fantastic conductor and something you should never add to something like a rotor arm, avoid these appalling new Lucas rotors at all costs because of this.
However, there is another more cost effective option that came onto the market in the last few years & seems to be doing the job well, talk to the Distributor Doctor about his red rotor arms:
http://www.distributordoctor.com/red-rotor-arms.ht...
HT leads are an easy find, I recommend a genuine Bosch set for a V8 Land Rover to go with your genuine Bosch coil.
Quality spark plug extenders can be sourced from Tim at ACT, not cheap but they are proper.
Finally its well worth replacing your ignition amp, like distributor caps the new Lucas brand amps don't seem to be too bad (unlike their terrible rotor arms), the Land Rover part number for the ignition amp is STC1184, the Lucas part number 9EM.
Be careful you get the correct connector type amp, there are two types out there, it's the three spade fitting type on your TVR but it's probably best to pull the connector on yours to have a look & make 100% sure you're getting the right one.
For all the above (except the rotor arm) a good Land Rover parts specialist is often cheaper than a TVR parts specialist.
Hope this helps?
Distributor caps are normally pretty contestant quality across the brands, the Land Rover part number is STC8368G.
Rotor arms are your biggest challenge, be careful here as there's some real junk out there and you cant tell just by looking at them.
The traditional solution was to locate an ORIGINAL Lucas (DRB195C) rotor arm, but these are getting extremely difficult to source these days, do not be fooled by a Lucas box, new Lucas is not the same as old Lucas.
If you do find a genuine new old stock Lucas rotor arm expect to pay £25, which seems crazy for a rotor arm but the truth is it's well worth it, if you are offered a Lucas rotor arm for less than this it will be the new Lucas brand which is just a branding exercise & it will definitely be an utterly rubbish Indian made rotor where carbon was used to give then the rotor the black colour.
Carbon is a fantastic conductor and something you should never add to something like a rotor arm, avoid these appalling new Lucas rotors at all costs because of this.
However, there is another more cost effective option that came onto the market in the last few years & seems to be doing the job well, talk to the Distributor Doctor about his red rotor arms:
http://www.distributordoctor.com/red-rotor-arms.ht...
HT leads are an easy find, I recommend a genuine Bosch set for a V8 Land Rover to go with your genuine Bosch coil.
Quality spark plug extenders can be sourced from Tim at ACT, not cheap but they are proper.
Finally its well worth replacing your ignition amp, like distributor caps the new Lucas brand amps don't seem to be too bad (unlike their terrible rotor arms), the Land Rover part number for the ignition amp is STC1184, the Lucas part number 9EM.
Be careful you get the correct connector type amp, there are two types out there, it's the three spade fitting type on your TVR but it's probably best to pull the connector on yours to have a look & make 100% sure you're getting the right one.
For all the above (except the rotor arm) a good Land Rover parts specialist is often cheaper than a TVR parts specialist.
Hope this helps?
When I had just bought my Chimaera, I sourced coil, dizzy cap, rotor arm and plug leads all from Tim at ACT. All the components were branded, in 'old' style Lucas/Bosch packaging. In addition, ACT are a well known supplier of TVR parts, so have a reputation to uphold.
Still going strong when I sold the car 3 years later.
Nick
Still going strong when I sold the car 3 years later.
Nick
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