Engine temperature on a Griff

[srebbe64]

Okay, we all know the engine temperature on a Griff is anything but stable, and they tend to run pretty warm in slow, or static, traffic.

My question is: What range of temperature is bordering on a problem? My. Griff tends to fluctuate at about 85 degrees, but occasionally rises to well over 90 degrees in traffic. What is the general consesus on this?

[griffophenia]

My 4.0 Pre-Cat Griff runs at about 80/85deg. in traffic or on the open roads since a had a new radiator fitted. Prior to the new rad the temp. was anywhere between 80/105deg.

Phil

>> Edited by griffophenia on Saturday 20th November 17:33

[GreenV8S]

The comfort zone is 80-100, but any sudden change in behaviour should be investigated.

[Martin_S]

srebbe64 said:

Okay, we all know the engine temperature on a Griff is anything but stable, and they tend to run pretty warm in slow, or static, traffic. My question is: What range of temperature is bordering on a problem? My. Griff tends to fluctuate at about 85 degrees, but occasionally rises to well over 90 degrees in traffic. What is the general consesus on this?

Sounds fine to me. I wouldn't worry until it rose over 100 or the fans fail to pull it back down when they kick in.

[beano500]

I saw 110 on the dial when I did my Ride Drive - on the airstrip.

But, bear in mind:

a) it was one of the hottest days of 2003, not even a breeze
b) the dial may not be accurate
c) after stopping hooning arond it came back down to something more sensible very quickly
d) there were no after effects and I had the car for a further year from that point.

[dnb]

Ron - that particular Griff seems very good at keeping the temperatures under control. We very rarely see anything over 85ish. Mind you, we've not used it in the height of summer yet...

[beano500]

It used to sometimes seem to use up a bit of coolant. I have seen it not climb very high on cold days on a motorway, maybe only between 60-70 - my reaction was to drop the speed down and keep the revs low, that also seemed fine.

I think generally any sudden change is the only time to get alarmed!

[dnb]

We've got the coolant use down a bit now, (swan neck pipes and a couple of hoses were about gone) and I've not seen those sort of low temperatures yet.

It still uses a bit of coolant though.

I do wonder if the coolant temperature sensor is beginning to get cranky? Must get a meter on it.

[gruff500]

I run a 98' 500 and find that it usually sticks between 85 to dead on 90 after it gets hot. Any overheating problems I've had have tended to be fixed by flushing the cooling system - if watched regularly it shouldn't cause too many problem (famous last words!!)

[groucho]

Never gone above 90, even in traffic on a 30 degree day.

Grouch.

[pepper]

Groucho is lucky. Mine gets up to 90 after 15 minutes of sitting still from a cold start - maybe the old ones are worse (93 L). I sit in traffic on the way home from work and panic about over heating!!

[simon.b]

The gauges are not noted for accuracy so these numbers may not be consistent with other cars, but I’ve run my 97 500 for a few years now and have had my share of cooling problems.

In the warmer months the temp rises up to fan operation speed quickly i.e. 90 pausing at 70 for a while (which I guess is the thermostat opening). Once on the move, a steady B road run averaging 60 mph then my temp gauge will read around 80. On a motorway it will be down to just above 70. In the winter the temp rarely reaches 90 unless on long high speed or stop start journeys.

If the temp ever hits 90 and I’m in slow moving traffic I switch the fan override on, which bring it down to around 70. If it gets up to 100 I freak and stop ASAP something is wrong.

I normally fit a splitter for the summer months but apart from that the cooling system is completely standard (though I think splitters were fitted by TVR) with the addition of a fan override switch. With the splitter fitted the temperature rapidly comes down from an indicated 90, once the road speed averages over 40 mph.

Cheers,

Simon.

[ezygriff]

Managed to boil mine earlier in the year (radiator leak). Engine OK and radiator re-cored, but I was having the same trouble in traffic, getting into the 100's on occasion. After the system was re-bled it started behaving itself again, sitting around 85 and never above 90.

Of course, now that's sorted I have electrical & heating problems. Does anyone have a Griff in which everything works?!

[red griff 500]

After a few scares with my woefully inadequate cooling fans I fitted an override switch and then discovered why the fans were woefully inadequate. The Otter switch was not pulling the relay down to 0 volts. It was connected to a peg on the back of the alternator which fluctuated between 1 Volts and 7 volts. This meant that the relay was cutting in and out at high frequency which reduced power to the fans. The solution was simply to find a decent earth to connect the Otter switch to.

I feel much happier now with the override switch fitted as it gives more sense of being in control of the engine temperature - overheating one of these engines could be very expensive.

Steve

[GreenV8S]

How wierd! Might not have been doing the alternator any favours either? And would quickly have shagged the relay ...

Any more 'improvements' on your car?

[RichB]

ezygriff said:

Does anyone have a Griff in which everything works?!

Yep

Edited to add that I once spent an afternoon in heavy traffic in Riems when it was around 40 deg C, Griff went up to 95-100 but never more and never overheated. p.s. I do have a Mod-Wise two satge fan, but as David said that is as much to keep the cabin cool as the engine! R...

>> Edited by RichB on Friday 26th November 10:29

[srebbe64]

RichB said:

ezygriff said: Does anyone have a Griff in which everything works?! Yep

Swop ya?

[donatien]

red griff 500 said:

After a few scares with my woefully inadequate cooling fans I fitted an override switch and then discovered why the fans were woefully inadequate. The Otter switch was not pulling the relay down to 0 volts. It was connected to a peg on the back of the alternator which fluctuated between 1 Volts and 7 volts. This meant that the relay was cutting in and out at high frequency which reduced power to the fans. The solution was simply to find a decent earth to connect the Otter switch to. I feel much happier now with the override switch fitted as it gives more sense of being in control of the engine temperature - overheating one of these engines could be very expensive. Steve

If I have any concerns over hot running I always short the otter out with a piggy back cable. Ok, the fans are always on but you would be unlikely to overheat. On hot summer days I do this as a matter of precaution anyway.

As you say, if the issue is upstream of otter this may not help so some sort of override that sits by the relay is preferable.

Heath at the factory told me there is no issue with running fans all the time though as Steve Heath has pointed out you may get battery drain. Still, a new battery is buxton hall compared to new heads or engine.

There is just too much that can go wrong with the Griffs cooling system. When it all works its fine but it is only as strong as the weakest link. Failed otter, bad connection to relay, bad wiring elsewhere, failed relay, blown fuses - any of those can cause an issue and I've only mentioned the potential electrical gremlins!

The answer is of course if it ever gets over 110 STOP. Or if it suddenly registers an unusual high reading.

[RichB]

srebbe64 said:

RichB said: ezygriff said: Does anyone have a Griff in which everything works?! Yep Swop ya?

Nope! I rather like mine Rich...

[shadowfax]

I've pulled this from the search just incase I need to revive it later...

Never been over 90 till last time out. Very warm but not excessively hot evening midweek. I'd been to Ian's for a few other check-ups and did some vigorous though never over 5200rpm driving for a few miles and even after pootling to warm down I noted the unusual position of needle, just below the red line....

will see what today brings.