RV8 Crank oil seal
Discussion
Tracing the cause of an oil leak on my RV8 resulted in me replacing the rear crank seal, side seals and sump gasket.
The original leak seems to have been caused by the rear cap side seals being trimmed a bit short.
The new seal is a genuine land rover part
I followed the instructions to nip up the bearing caps then fit the seal. I used a cut down yoghurt pot to guide the greased seal over the flywheel flange, the outside face of the seal was smeared with hylomar.
I couldn't get the seal to fit into the aperture so slackened off the rear main cap a touch - voila - the seal seated nicely. Good job and no more leaks.
Had a look at the engine the following morning and the seal had popped out of it's home. It was still sealing on the flywheel boss so I used a hammer and flat plate to tap it back in to the bearing cap where it remained (i.e. didn't pop back out). Now I worry that I have done a silly thing and should replace the seal and repeat the process (possibly with risk of same result!).
What are your thoughts?
The original leak seems to have been caused by the rear cap side seals being trimmed a bit short.
The new seal is a genuine land rover part
I followed the instructions to nip up the bearing caps then fit the seal. I used a cut down yoghurt pot to guide the greased seal over the flywheel flange, the outside face of the seal was smeared with hylomar.
I couldn't get the seal to fit into the aperture so slackened off the rear main cap a touch - voila - the seal seated nicely. Good job and no more leaks.
Had a look at the engine the following morning and the seal had popped out of it's home. It was still sealing on the flywheel boss so I used a hammer and flat plate to tap it back in to the bearing cap where it remained (i.e. didn't pop back out). Now I worry that I have done a silly thing and should replace the seal and repeat the process (possibly with risk of same result!).
What are your thoughts?
The mating faces of the seal and the block & bearing cap must be clean, dry and free from any lubricant or contaminant. If not they have a nasty tendency to pop out in service.
Just nip the cap bolts up - the manual for mine, 1986 3.5EFi says to tension by approx 1/4 turn then back off one full turn on each bolt, later RAVE V8 overhaul manual says to 'lightly tighten' , fit the genuine parts seal, then tighten the cap bolts to the correct torque. Trim the ends of the cruciform seals as per the manual - must protrude 1.5mm above face - then refit the sump.
I do run a bead of silicone sealant round the outer edge of the seal after torquing up the cap bolts. Don't know if it does any good, but to date I haven't had an issue.
Do use genuine seals IIRC people have had problems with pattern ones.
In your position I would start again as having it leak after you've put everything back together would be a PITA.
Just nip the cap bolts up - the manual for mine, 1986 3.5EFi says to tension by approx 1/4 turn then back off one full turn on each bolt, later RAVE V8 overhaul manual says to 'lightly tighten' , fit the genuine parts seal, then tighten the cap bolts to the correct torque. Trim the ends of the cruciform seals as per the manual - must protrude 1.5mm above face - then refit the sump.
I do run a bead of silicone sealant round the outer edge of the seal after torquing up the cap bolts. Don't know if it does any good, but to date I haven't had an issue.
Do use genuine seals IIRC people have had problems with pattern ones.
In your position I would start again as having it leak after you've put everything back together would be a PITA.
Edited by paintman on Saturday 1st March 01:07
The sump gaskets are also prone to leaking. The pressed steel sump is thin & not exactly well made.
I've tried a couple of things with mine, incl RTV gasket - what a waste of time that was - and now use the normal LR gasket with a smear of hylomar on both sides. Also helps to degrease the sump bolts & uses a drop of loctite on each one as they have a tendency to loosen over time if you don't. Don't forget to put the spring washers on them. So far, I've had no further leaks from the sump.
I've tried a couple of things with mine, incl RTV gasket - what a waste of time that was - and now use the normal LR gasket with a smear of hylomar on both sides. Also helps to degrease the sump bolts & uses a drop of loctite on each one as they have a tendency to loosen over time if you don't. Don't forget to put the spring washers on them. So far, I've had no further leaks from the sump.
Sump gasket fitting procedure is here.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=106...
Don't use hylomar or anything else on the circumference of the crank seal. In a normal build on an engine stand they go in dry. With the engine in the car it might be easier to fit them with a smear of engine oil although if you back off each main cap bolt a tad to let the crank drop half a mm you can avoid even this.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=106...
Don't use hylomar or anything else on the circumference of the crank seal. In a normal build on an engine stand they go in dry. With the engine in the car it might be easier to fit them with a smear of engine oil although if you back off each main cap bolt a tad to let the crank drop half a mm you can avoid even this.
No need for a new seal. Just clean the old one, and the housing, up properly.
I'd be concerned about crankcase pressure though if the seal keeps coming out even with an imperfect fitting procedure. There are no forces from the crank journal itself that would try and push the seal out. It should stay exactly where it is unless crankcase pressure is acting on it. Check the breathers obviously but they won't compensate for badly worn bores or rings.
I'd be concerned about crankcase pressure though if the seal keeps coming out even with an imperfect fitting procedure. There are no forces from the crank journal itself that would try and push the seal out. It should stay exactly where it is unless crankcase pressure is acting on it. Check the breathers obviously but they won't compensate for badly worn bores or rings.
Steve_D said:
I got the impression it just popped out overnight without even running.
Most strange.
Steve
Spot on Steve, I hope it hasn't been run on the engine stand ;-) it was sat there minding it's own business.Most strange.
Steve
A new seal is on order but as this one has popped out I will clean it up and inspect it closely. It only takes an hour to whip the engine out of the Bowler so I may retain the new one as a "guarantee" that the present one won't leak.
This is what I like about PH - honest and straightforward answers to technical questions, I like the technical stuff posted on here...
100SRV
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