Battery Relocated - heater blowing cold ?
Discussion
Hi All,
After having moved the fusebox to behind the passenger seat I have now moved the battery to behind the drivers seat.
I am very happy with the results and I am pleased I took the time to do the job.
The only thing that is baffling me is the heater blows cold. The engine sits at the correct temperature and does not overheat. The water level is fine, I have bled the pipes at the top of the engine bay which go through to the heater matrix (?) and they are full of water.
My heater was always hot and not adjustable as the car came with the wires to the motor cut.
Any ideas welcome.
Thanks.
After having moved the fusebox to behind the passenger seat I have now moved the battery to behind the drivers seat.
I am very happy with the results and I am pleased I took the time to do the job.
The only thing that is baffling me is the heater blows cold. The engine sits at the correct temperature and does not overheat. The water level is fine, I have bled the pipes at the top of the engine bay which go through to the heater matrix (?) and they are full of water.
My heater was always hot and not adjustable as the car came with the wires to the motor cut.
Any ideas welcome.
Thanks.
Hope you don't mind me sidetracking your thread for a moment.
[quote=G5FTH]Hi All,
After having moved the fusebox to behind the passenger seat I have now moved the battery to behind the drivers seat.
I am very happy with the results and I am pleased I took the time to do the job.quote]
My next project...once the garage warms up a bit. Perhaps you would answer a few questions to get me on my way,
Were the fusebox wires long enough without having to add to them?
Did you run the wires alongside the tunnel or under the 'whaletail' on top of the tunnel?
What make and size of battery did you use?
Any pics by any chance?
[quote=G5FTH]Hi All,
After having moved the fusebox to behind the passenger seat I have now moved the battery to behind the drivers seat.
I am very happy with the results and I am pleased I took the time to do the job.quote]
My next project...once the garage warms up a bit. Perhaps you would answer a few questions to get me on my way,
Were the fusebox wires long enough without having to add to them?
Did you run the wires alongside the tunnel or under the 'whaletail' on top of the tunnel?
What make and size of battery did you use?
Any pics by any chance?
Edited by Hedgehopper on Sunday 2nd March 12:27
I think it could be the valve shut as mentioned, I'll try that at the weekend unless I have a chance sooner - Cheers.
I dont mind answering questions about the battery move at all. I'll post pictures at the weekend.
I fitted an Odyssey battery, but I think its larger than some others have used. I modified the battery connection so that it does not foul the back of the seat.
I ran the neg connection under the whale tail to the main earth point near the heater heater controls. I ran the pos along the chassis tube to the main connection at the solenoid. I used 40mm2 cable wrapped in protection before cable tying to the tubing.
Rather than buy pre-measured lengths of 40mm2 with crimps already done, I bought a hydraulic crimping tool for £33 and made up the ends as and when I needed them.
The cables were long enough for the fusebox move after unwinding them.
It was all straight forward partly because I had read what others had done previously like this one in a Chim:
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
I dont mind answering questions about the battery move at all. I'll post pictures at the weekend.
I fitted an Odyssey battery, but I think its larger than some others have used. I modified the battery connection so that it does not foul the back of the seat.
I ran the neg connection under the whale tail to the main earth point near the heater heater controls. I ran the pos along the chassis tube to the main connection at the solenoid. I used 40mm2 cable wrapped in protection before cable tying to the tubing.
Rather than buy pre-measured lengths of 40mm2 with crimps already done, I bought a hydraulic crimping tool for £33 and made up the ends as and when I needed them.
The cables were long enough for the fusebox move after unwinding them.
It was all straight forward partly because I had read what others had done previously like this one in a Chim:
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
G5FTH, Thanks for the info. regarding fusebox move...sorry to have interrupted your thread.
It's strange that you are suffering a cold heater, most people can't cool there's down.
When you turn the dahboard heater control valve (top left) can you hear a motor running? If not then perhaps you have knocked one of the wires off. If the motor does run then I guess the motor is out of synch. with the valve or you have an airlock.
Hope this helps.
It's strange that you are suffering a cold heater, most people can't cool there's down.
When you turn the dahboard heater control valve (top left) can you hear a motor running? If not then perhaps you have knocked one of the wires off. If the motor does run then I guess the motor is out of synch. with the valve or you have an airlock.
Hope this helps.
I checked the valve in my last post, it definately does not have a motor assembly attached. The pipes to the matrix were not hot so I manually turned the valve which should have a motor about 1/4 turn, all good now.
My heater is piping hot once more. I'll need to source the motor/bracket etc so that I can wire it in and get the temperature control working.
With regards to the battery move, I made a steel bracket to hold the battery like so:
The negative terminal has a copper "L" bracket on it to stop the bulkier terminal hitting the back of the seat. I am 6' and have the seat right back with no fowling.
I will post more pictures later.
My heater is piping hot once more. I'll need to source the motor/bracket etc so that I can wire it in and get the temperature control working.
With regards to the battery move, I made a steel bracket to hold the battery like so:
The negative terminal has a copper "L" bracket on it to stop the bulkier terminal hitting the back of the seat. I am 6' and have the seat right back with no fowling.
I will post more pictures later.
G5FTH said:
I checked the valve in my last post, it definately does not have a motor assembly attached. The pipes to the matrix were not hot so I manually turned the valve which should have a motor about 1/4 turn, all good now.
My heater is piping hot once more. I'll need to source the motor/bracket etc so that I can wire it in and get the temperature control working.
Well well, that's the picture I took of the valve in my Griff. My heater is piping hot once more. I'll need to source the motor/bracket etc so that I can wire it in and get the temperature control working.
I've never found the motor 'end stops' to be effective enough to guarantee that the valve will be fully turned off. I've often considered disconnecting the motor and rigging up some form of cable operation using something like a choke cable - maybe you should consider a similar solution?
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