Oil drainback after 5 months inactivity?
Discussion
Hi all
I haven't run my 400SE for nearly 5 months and I was wondering if after such a long period, the oil may have drained back out of the (inverted) filter and out of the oil pump. I'm wondering whether I should whip the filter off and prime the feed-in pipe a la Adam Quantrill way...
Does anyone have an opinion or advice before I do it anyway? She is due for an oil change but I wanted to run her first to get the oil hot and fluid for the dump.
Cheers
I haven't run my 400SE for nearly 5 months and I was wondering if after such a long period, the oil may have drained back out of the (inverted) filter and out of the oil pump. I'm wondering whether I should whip the filter off and prime the feed-in pipe a la Adam Quantrill way...
Does anyone have an opinion or advice before I do it anyway? She is due for an oil change but I wanted to run her first to get the oil hot and fluid for the dump.
Cheers
The important bit is not draining the sump as the oil pump drains back to that/the pick-up strainer. Pretty much you can feel confident the oil pump will still be primed so long as there's the correct amount in the sump, even if you remove the filter? (some filters have non-return valves fitted anyway).
HTHs
T
HTHs
T
I think the galleries, pump etc will still be full.
Now I know more about the engine, I think the cam will be the most vulnerable.
So put in about a pint of oil through the filler, and do it on one hit as quickly as possible, that drips down the Vee onto the cam, so hopefully at least some of the lobes won't be dry as a bone! Also to protect the cam get the revs up to 2000 and keep them there for a minute - or go straight out for a drive - don't let it sit there idling.
After only 5 months I think the bores won't be dried out, but it won't do any harm to put a teaspoon of oil down each plug hole (check the plugs while you're there.) If you do this, turn the engine over with the plugs out first.
Now I know more about the engine, I think the cam will be the most vulnerable.
So put in about a pint of oil through the filler, and do it on one hit as quickly as possible, that drips down the Vee onto the cam, so hopefully at least some of the lobes won't be dry as a bone! Also to protect the cam get the revs up to 2000 and keep them there for a minute - or go straight out for a drive - don't let it sit there idling.
After only 5 months I think the bores won't be dried out, but it won't do any harm to put a teaspoon of oil down each plug hole (check the plugs while you're there.) If you do this, turn the engine over with the plugs out first.
wild rover said:
You could consider disconnecting the coil. Turn it over a few times to check that the oil light goes out.
Started mine for the first time since October this weekend. I just disconnected the king lead and spun it over a few times before reconnecting and starting properly. Oil pressure light went out straight away without any clatter from the lifters and/or rockers.RMeier said:
Started mine after 5 weeks inactivity and the noise from the top end was awful/tappety. Now run it every 2 weeks. be careful
Did you count how many seconds before the oil pressure light went out? I've seen up to 10 seconds where the oil filter doesn't have a non-return valve, about 3 seconds where there is a non-return valve fitted.OK chaps, feedback time!
Adam's advice seemed, well more than that, was clearly very sound. To make sure that as much oil as possible gets into the camshaft area, I used a half litre squeezable soft oil bottle which came with a spout with a 90 degree bend right at the tip. I got it decades ago, full of back axle oil (long since used). I filled it with engine oil, poked the spout down the oil filler, squeezed like **** and pointed the outlet "nozzle" to direct the jet of oil to the higher end of the rocker cover, where the pushrods come up and waggled it around a bit to try and reach the far end as well. No doubt there were obstructions but the hope was that some would find its way down into the camshaft area.
That's all I did - didn't take the plugs out, didn't disconnect the fuel pump or ignition. When I fired her up there were no rattles, the oil pressure light went out after (a very long!) probably about three seconds and the pressure started to show on the gauge after I suppose about six or seven seconds. But no rattles, and that was very gratifying.
Took her for a spin, well, two spins actually and wondered how I'd managed the winter without the adrennalin - pure joy!
So thanks to all and bring on the spring!
Adam's advice seemed, well more than that, was clearly very sound. To make sure that as much oil as possible gets into the camshaft area, I used a half litre squeezable soft oil bottle which came with a spout with a 90 degree bend right at the tip. I got it decades ago, full of back axle oil (long since used). I filled it with engine oil, poked the spout down the oil filler, squeezed like **** and pointed the outlet "nozzle" to direct the jet of oil to the higher end of the rocker cover, where the pushrods come up and waggled it around a bit to try and reach the far end as well. No doubt there were obstructions but the hope was that some would find its way down into the camshaft area.
That's all I did - didn't take the plugs out, didn't disconnect the fuel pump or ignition. When I fired her up there were no rattles, the oil pressure light went out after (a very long!) probably about three seconds and the pressure started to show on the gauge after I suppose about six or seven seconds. But no rattles, and that was very gratifying.
Took her for a spin, well, two spins actually and wondered how I'd managed the winter without the adrennalin - pure joy!
So thanks to all and bring on the spring!
Gassing Station | Wedges | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff