Discussion
The linkage on the non M400 cars is very sloppy, and feels inprecise at first. You do get used to it, and avoid missing gears but you need to have your wits about you on track. Many have uprated the linkage to either M400 spec, or Jetstream do a kit. Some are quoted as saying that this is the best mod that you can do to the car. I've got used to mine, but would like the gear change to be more rifle-bolt.
£800 sounds pretty good if it's supply and fit.
I did mine myself with a little research, help form people on here, easy access to some CNC machines, and a reasonable degree of swearing.
Doing the job would be simple if you had easy access to any of the nuts and bolts!
Factor also that the center trim needs messing with as the gearstick is shifted over to the left. I managed to peel back the leather, cut back the fibreglass, and stick it back down.
It's now nice and precise though having done it I can now see how correctly adjusting the original would be worthwhile. Very simple to do- if you have enough spare adjustment on the gearbox ends of the cables.
I did mine myself with a little research, help form people on here, easy access to some CNC machines, and a reasonable degree of swearing.
Doing the job would be simple if you had easy access to any of the nuts and bolts!
Factor also that the center trim needs messing with as the gearstick is shifted over to the left. I managed to peel back the leather, cut back the fibreglass, and stick it back down.
It's now nice and precise though having done it I can now see how correctly adjusting the original would be worthwhile. Very simple to do- if you have enough spare adjustment on the gearbox ends of the cables.
Edited by Green3R on Monday 3rd March 12:50
So far i thought there were only two types of linkage, an 'early' one, and the ST220 one.
Is there three? Is the M400 one different to the ST220 one? How do you identify which one you have?
My gear stick is in the centre of the tunnel, i thought this means i have the ST220 one
Thanks
Matt
Is there three? Is the M400 one different to the ST220 one? How do you identify which one you have?
My gear stick is in the centre of the tunnel, i thought this means i have the ST220 one
Thanks
Matt
If you have the late shifter (m400 / st220) you will have the late shift tower crank parts (2 triangular bits of alloy) and the shift cables will come in from the front, rather than round the drivers side of chassis (on the top rail) and in from the back.
The common mod uses the st220 shifter.
I'd be interested to know if the actual shifter in the 400 is st220 derived or a custom make- given that the 400 tunnel is narrow I'd have thought there wouldn't be room for the 220 shifter to sit centraly.
The common mod uses the st220 shifter.
I'd be interested to know if the actual shifter in the 400 is st220 derived or a custom make- given that the 400 tunnel is narrow I'd have thought there wouldn't be room for the 220 shifter to sit centraly.
Green3R said:
If you have the late shifter (m400 / st220) you will have the late shift tower crank parts (2 triangular bits of alloy) and the shift cables will come in from the front, rather than round the drivers side of chassis (on the top rail) and in from the back.
The common mod uses the st220 shifter.
I'd be interested to know if the actual shifter in the 400 is st220 derived or a custom make- given that the 400 tunnel is narrow I'd have thought there wouldn't be room for the 220 shifter to sit centraly.
Dammit, i have the early type.The common mod uses the st220 shifter.
I'd be interested to know if the actual shifter in the 400 is st220 derived or a custom make- given that the 400 tunnel is narrow I'd have thought there wouldn't be room for the 220 shifter to sit centraly.
Matt
AMG Merc said:
Gearchange can be adjusted via the selector fork on top of the gearbox after which it can be transformed. Should take a specialist 30-60 minutes. First option before paying for a mod I'd say.
What should I tell a specialist that he needs to do with the selector fork to improve the shifting?This is what I'd do (happy to be edited and corrected)
Put in neutral
Pop the cables off the pivot arms at the box end (6mm ball ends, you have to release the locking clip on them).
The gearbox levers should be in their neutral position now. You could at this point pull on the cables to see how much slop there is further up the chain.
Shorten the cables a little by adjusting either at the joint near the ball, or the large thread on the cable outer. I'd be trying to take out any play caused by stetch in the cable. The other end of the cable would be a bugger to adjust!
Pop the cables back on and try it. It's only a few minutes work- maybe 10!
The other aread to look at is the gearstick pivot. There followed a long winded description; I'll take a photo tonight if I can so you see the complete layout. Then you'll see where the slop is.
Put in neutral
Pop the cables off the pivot arms at the box end (6mm ball ends, you have to release the locking clip on them).
The gearbox levers should be in their neutral position now. You could at this point pull on the cables to see how much slop there is further up the chain.
Shorten the cables a little by adjusting either at the joint near the ball, or the large thread on the cable outer. I'd be trying to take out any play caused by stetch in the cable. The other end of the cable would be a bugger to adjust!
Pop the cables back on and try it. It's only a few minutes work- maybe 10!
The other aread to look at is the gearstick pivot. There followed a long winded description; I'll take a photo tonight if I can so you see the complete layout. Then you'll see where the slop is.
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