Outrigger Tubes Spec

[mowog]

Can anyone help with the size/gauge/spec used?

Found a really good local guy happy to take on some repair work to my s3 chassis.

Talked him through the 'jack the body up' option - providing there is no further corrosion.

Really annoying as I gave most of the chassis a good rub down/hammerite/waxoyl in the Spring - but the leading edge of the o/s front of the oturigger seems to have degraded really quickly.

Plenty of info. on here which has been useful.

Thanks
Darren

[spivvy]

mowog said:

Can anyone help with the size/gauge/spec used? Found a really good local guy happy to take on some repair work to my s3 chassis. Talked him through the 'jack the body up' option - providing there is no further corrosion. Really annoying as I gave most of the chassis a good rub down/hammerite/waxoyl in the Spring - but the leading edge of the o/s front of the oturigger seems to have degraded really quickly. Plenty of info. on here which has been useful. Thanks Darren

did exactly the same spent a month cleaning and painting to discover holes after i think the the tube is 1.5 od but not 100% as i can't find my notes for repairing the chassis zchromozone did his chassis recently so he may recall better than me

[KentishS2]

Is the old one too bad to be able to tell what the size and guage was?

[mowog]

The old tubing is still intact so I would need to cut it out to find the size/gauge. Don't really want to do that until I've sourced replacement tubing.

I've done some searching here - looks like I need 1.5 inch OD, 14/16g.

Thanks
Darren

[KentishS2]

mowog said:

The old tubing is still intact so I would need to cut it out to find the size/gauge. Don't really want to do that until I've sourced replacement tubing. I've done some searching here - looks like I need 1.5 inch OD, 14/16g. Thanks Darren

I'm certain it's a pretty standard size.

Try Parker Steel, delivery should be fairly quick and it shouldn't hold the repairs up.

[Roy C]

mowog said:

...the leading edge of the o/s front of the outrigger seems to have degraded really quickly.

It's very venerable from attack by stones thrown up by the tyre. Try adding some protection by lengthening the trailing edge of the inner wing (I attached a rubber mudguard to sheild the tube).

[nicbowman]

Hi - do you have to lift the body to replace the side rails?? I presume so.

Nic

[KentishS2]

I'm stripping my out riggers at some point and coating them in Isoflex (liquid rubber), this should deflect all wayward stones!

[WildfireS3]

KentishS2 said:

I'm stripping my out riggers at some point and coating them in Isoflex (liquid rubber), this should deflect all wayward stones!

Excellent plan Kevin, I may try this too.

[z_chromozone]

mowog said:

The old tubing is still intact so I would need to cut it out to find the size/gauge. Don't really want to do that until I've sourced replacement tubing. I've done some searching here - looks like I need 1.5 inch OD, 14/16g. Thanks Darren

That sounds like the stuff. It is not expensive, but make sure you get "cold drawn seemless", I went for 16g. You may want to order some slightly smaller diameter stuff for sleeving.

I am not sure how much of the outriggers you plan to replace, but if you are taking off the seat belt mountings here is a good tip. If you put a straight rod through the inner mountings the outer ones will line up too. It really helps.

If you are going to coat with rubberised sealer make sure that there is a good coat of paint sealing the tubes underneath and that the whole lot is bone dry. I had a 68 VW that was nothing but rubber and rust when I stripped it off. MOT testers may not take too kindly, I think one stripped half the paint off Spivvy's when he was looking at it (just to make sure).

My personal goal this year (apart from my cam and lifter change), is to fabricate two aluminium splash gards that run the entire length of the car and be pressed into shape so they protect the upper front of the riggers. They will be held in place with self tapping screws to allow inspection. 2, or 3 mm sheet ali is not that expensive, I will let you know how I get on.

Z

[KentishS2]

WildfireS3 said:

KentishS2 said: I'm stripping my out riggers at some point and coating them in Isoflex (liquid rubber), this should deflect all wayward stones! Excellent plan Kevin, I may try this too.

As Z mentions, it's essential that you ensure that the rust is removed and that the outriggers are dry. I've also drilled my outriggers at the lowest points to allow mositure to drain and the hole is useful to allow access when applying the clear waxoil.

When I strip my outriggers, I'm going to use a rust neutraliser on the outside of the outriggers to give a clean and primed surface ready to take the rubber coating. When this is dry I'll probably use waxoil on top (as long as it doesn't degrade the rubber in any way).

[WonkyGibbon]

As an fyi - Austec have worked out a way of doing this for the front of the outriggers (ie: the location you describe) without doing a body lift. My car needs this doing as well. Cost is around £350.

WG

[Yorky]

The S Series site, under 'S Related Documents' includes an early publicity release called 'A New Sports Car for the Nineties'. This states the chassis is made of 2 3/8 rectangular & 1.5 dia. circular 16 gauge tube

[spivvy]

[quote] MOT testers may not take too kindly, I think one stripped half the paint off Spivvy's when he was looking at it (just to make sure).

Z[/quote]

i couldn't believe it when i got the car back from MOT after all that painting, he had scrapped off bits to check the metal and not in one area even.

i will be lucking for a TVR friendly MOT centre next
time