ARB settings for HPC
Discussion
I've got an HPC which, as we all know has a high tendency to understeer, so adding a front ARB is quite useless from that point of view.
I happen to have a nice Freestyle front ARB and it is a waste not to use it, even if it was only to the added bling factor and bragging potential at the pub. And to the super purist, it ain't that heavy too.
So my thoughts are that with adding an adjustable rear ARB I could find a balance that would improve things over all.
Does anybody have a freestyle rear ARB somewhere in their shed collecting dust, or at least would be so nice to measure the blade and crosstube for me. In that case I could remake one for the rear.
If anybody thinks I'm going lunatic, please enlighten me, I'm open for advice
I happen to have a nice Freestyle front ARB and it is a waste not to use it, even if it was only to the added bling factor and bragging potential at the pub. And to the super purist, it ain't that heavy too.
So my thoughts are that with adding an adjustable rear ARB I could find a balance that would improve things over all.
Does anybody have a freestyle rear ARB somewhere in their shed collecting dust, or at least would be so nice to measure the blade and crosstube for me. In that case I could remake one for the rear.
If anybody thinks I'm going lunatic, please enlighten me, I'm open for advice
Edited by harry b on Sunday 9th March 08:03
Get some front wishbones made that widen the front track +120mm over standard. Then they turn in properly.
No ARB on the front is correct, you don't need much on the rear. All of the Caterham rear bars are adjustable by moving the links. The 7/16 Caterham rear bar is fine on its softer settings once you sort the front out.
No ARB on the front is correct, you don't need much on the rear. All of the Caterham rear bars are adjustable by moving the links. The 7/16 Caterham rear bar is fine on its softer settings once you sort the front out.
Agree with Arnie 100% re. wider track. A must have mod for a HPC. Also concur about the standard adjustable ARB. Most of the time for competition work my links were cable tied thus disabling the RARB.
As for the understeer stigma, in all honesty I found it more prevalent on tight corners/hairpins where the wash out was a joke with narrow track. On fast sweeping curves I really didn't think it any worse than my Superlight.
Funny thing was, at a sprint once where I thought I'd no chance of a pot I grabbed a second place.......which certainly went against the mid week practice times I'd set.
I later found out that a ball on the end of the front ARB had shattered rendering it useless.......the extra grip that gave me on the "slow bits" taught me a lesson.
I also found a larger than normal "toe out" setting on the front increased turn in, again especially on standard front track.
As for the understeer stigma, in all honesty I found it more prevalent on tight corners/hairpins where the wash out was a joke with narrow track. On fast sweeping curves I really didn't think it any worse than my Superlight.
Funny thing was, at a sprint once where I thought I'd no chance of a pot I grabbed a second place.......which certainly went against the mid week practice times I'd set.
I later found out that a ball on the end of the front ARB had shattered rendering it useless.......the extra grip that gave me on the "slow bits" taught me a lesson.
I also found a larger than normal "toe out" setting on the front increased turn in, again especially on standard front track.
TeflonTurd said:
Oh, and getting the LSD ramps (ZF) set to 30deg helps the understeer in slow corners a lot too.
Thanks, noted it. Didn't install a limited slip diff for the same reason.So if I understood correctly, I got a widetrack suspension which is 64mm over standard, I should make new ones 54 mm wider over a widetrack setup.
Anybody know the tube dimensions used for the wishbones? diameter is an easy one, wallthickness is unknown to me.
Any suggestions on materials would be nice too. Saves me a lot of time and cutting up a good wishbone.
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