Damaged radiator due to chassis twisting

[sonnylad]

Any one heard of this before, could understand it if i was thrashing it out on track every weekend.

Original rad fitted in Aug 04 when i got the car lasted till Classic Le mans 2012. Lasted about 30K miles.

This was replaced with a ally rad when i got back with mileage @ 49537 and had to be replaced under warrenty in Mar 13 @ 51344 miles.

The replacement has now gone the same way @ 54167 miles.

So between 1,807 miles and 2,823 miles is all i can do before killing another.

Anyone else managed to kill them so quick ?

[gruffalo]

51K miles into mine many, many track days and on the original radiator.

Something else must be causing the failure.

Have you earthed the rad?

[jackwibble]

The standard rad is know to twist due to its length to height ratio they crack on the corners I think you need to make sure the mounting bobbins are in good order to give it some shock absorption

[Tanguero]

Unless you already have a major chassis problem, like a crack or missing bracing - the chassis won't be twisting, particularly not at the front. Even then the radiator isn't attached directly to the chassis, but by flexible mounting bobbins. I can't think any way the chassis could twist enough to damage the radiator and still leave the car drivable.

Edited by Tanguero on Monday 10th March 08:01

[TobyLerone]

Are your rubber mounting bushes for the radiator in good order? If you have upgraded your rad, is it now hard-mounted into the chassis? If it is, it might be time to remount on some flexible rubbers.

[Supateg]

I posted this a couple of days ago...

"Good rad, fitted this over a year ago and no problems.

I did post at the time.
Another guy said he got a better price phoning up.

I have read about failure due to stress on ally rads.
When refitting pay attention to the mounting bobbins. The originals are very soft allowing movement. I had to replace the bobbins with generic ones.
The rubber was very hard so I cross drilled relief holes in and mounted the rad using nyloc nuts and penny washers to allow movement. I didn't nip them up.

Hope this helps"

This rad is sat on grommets and fixed via bobbins onto the fibreglass body. It can only be the NVH of the body causing problems. It is dead easy to mount a penny washer and nyloc nut on the bobbin to allow lateral movement. ( my replacement rad had oval mounting holes)
Look at any other car and you will see the rad is mounted to allow movement.

[sonnylad]

Thanks for comments, i must admit the idea of chassis suddenly causing this problem seems wrong to me.

But i need to prove otherwise as i am the one who is being left to foot the bill from here on in.

Any other ideas very welcome.

[Supateg]

Are the front body to chassis bolts intact / secured?

[sonnylad]

Supateg said:

Are the front body to chassis bolts intact / secured?

Would hope they are