Moving the bodyshell on the chassis
Moving the bodyshell on the chassis
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Discussion

active1064

Original Poster:

28 posts

181 months

Sunday 9th March 2014
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Hi All

Ever since buying my 350i the body shell has been slightly offset on the chassis, the near side wheel sticks slightly proud of the wheel arch. This also gives the car a look of cocking its rear leg so to speak. See pics
I drove the car all last year with no ill effects, even getting to Monaco and back without serious problems. Its now bugging me, can anyone offer any advice on shifting the body i.e.
Location of body to chassis bolts etc.

Any help would be much appreciated.

Tim


Wedg1e

27,038 posts

295 months

Monday 10th March 2014
quotequote all
It's a common problem on this type of car, my Tasmin and Esprit both showed it to some extent.

Body to chassis bolts are...
Two at the extreme front
Two under floor either side of the spine, under the seats
Two at extreme rear
Two through the bottom of the A-pillar reinforcement
Two or four (depending on model) through the front sill plate each side
Four through the rear sill plate each side (two secure the B-pillar reinforcements, if you're lucky)
Maybe two at the top of the front suspension towers (my Tasmin had them...)

Plus the inboard and outboard seatbelt anchors

Sill covers need to come off and you'll need some nice thick rubber sheet (say 6mm) to pack things out.
You may also uncover horrors you never even dreamed of.

V8 Fettler

7,019 posts

162 months

Monday 10th March 2014
quotequote all
OP, have you checked the geometry of your rear wheels? Do they sit correctly to the chassis? Do the wheels sit correctly to level ground?

Wedg1e

27,038 posts

295 months

Tuesday 11th March 2014
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I helped my old man build a Merlin (not Marlin) kit car in '82 and I recall the scariest bit of the whole build was committing to drilling the holes through the shell to bolt it to the chassis...

TA14

14,332 posts

288 months

Tuesday 11th March 2014
quotequote all
V8 Fettler said:
OP, have you checked the geometry of your rear wheels? Do they sit correctly to the chassis? Do the wheels sit correctly to level ground?
Yes, the effect in the picture can also be caused by a fractured diff carrier beam as I found out. If you're thinking to relocate the body take a lot of dimensions first.

As Ian says it's about 20 bolts but you'll have to glass up the old holes and you may need to do that before drilling the new holes.

active1064

Original Poster:

28 posts

181 months

Wednesday 12th March 2014
quotequote all
Hi

Can I just say great forum , must come and meet some of you guys. She a bit rough round the edges, but

TVR V8 no car comes close for the money.

All the rear suspension seems to measure up on both sides, diff carrier has no apparent damage,it appears on closer inspection that the whole body shell is offset by a centimetre or so to the offside.

When all the chassis bolts are removed, I assume, in theory you can just shift the body into the correct position? does anyone have any experience in this?

once again all advice greatly received.




wooly350i

2,248 posts

238 months

Wednesday 12th March 2014
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Hi, mine was exactly the same, as wedg1e says the bolts are pretty much as listed although I think I dont have any under the seats but more forward in each footwell, remove sills as advised and you'll see a pair of bolts towards the front and a pair towards the rear plus the packing rubber sheet, then once unbolted a few heavy mates or wife's to lan on the body or bop it with their arses, I refixed with stainless bolts.

V8 Fettler

7,019 posts

162 months

Thursday 13th March 2014
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TA14 said:
V8 Fettler said:
OP, have you checked the geometry of your rear wheels? Do they sit correctly to the chassis? Do the wheels sit correctly to level ground?
Yes, the effect in the picture can also be caused by a fractured diff carrier beam as I found out. If you're thinking to relocate the body take a lot of dimensions first.

As Ian says it's about 20 bolts but you'll have to glass up the old holes and you may need to do that before drilling the new holes.
Sticking out wheel can also be insecure hub nut or incorrectly adjusted camber.