Battery replacement procedure
Discussion
I've just ordered a battery from eurocarparts for my Cayman.
When I got the battery replaced a couple of years ago at halfrauds the guy went through a procedure of ignition on and did other things to save the radio code or something.
Is there a correct procedure somewhere for a battery swap ? Used to be back in the day it was battery out battery in !
If I need to have power on I could connect my battery tender to the leads while I swap out the battery ??
When I got the battery replaced a couple of years ago at halfrauds the guy went through a procedure of ignition on and did other things to save the radio code or something.
Is there a correct procedure somewhere for a battery swap ? Used to be back in the day it was battery out battery in !
If I need to have power on I could connect my battery tender to the leads while I swap out the battery ??
If it's anything like the 996, you need to leave the key in the ignition, but it does not need to be "on".
However I put it "on" just so the car knows the key is there, then turn it one back to the "off" position. Otherwise if you just put the key in I suspect the system may still technically be "key out".
If the battery is disconnected for extended periods (weeks) the alarm battery may drain and you may get the alarm going off just after you start (due to the voltage drop).
Under such circumstances I charge the (main) battery for an hour or so (with the battery connected). I guess that just leaving the battery connected for a couple of hours before starting up probably works just as well.
However I put it "on" just so the car knows the key is there, then turn it one back to the "off" position. Otherwise if you just put the key in I suspect the system may still technically be "key out".
If the battery is disconnected for extended periods (weeks) the alarm battery may drain and you may get the alarm going off just after you start (due to the voltage drop).
Under such circumstances I charge the (main) battery for an hour or so (with the battery connected). I guess that just leaving the battery connected for a couple of hours before starting up probably works just as well.
Update for the archives:
Replaced the Moll battery in my 997 with a Bosch one yesterday - really doable DIY, though I did have a couple of questions myself as to process before I attempted - mainly re ignition/alarm.
I switched the ignition on (1) for a bit, then switched back to off (key left in) to perform the installation, and this worked fine - no alarm issues.
On restart with the new battery connected, I had a Traction Control Failure error which cleared itself after a short drive.
Simples
Replaced the Moll battery in my 997 with a Bosch one yesterday - really doable DIY, though I did have a couple of questions myself as to process before I attempted - mainly re ignition/alarm.
I switched the ignition on (1) for a bit, then switched back to off (key left in) to perform the installation, and this worked fine - no alarm issues.
On restart with the new battery connected, I had a Traction Control Failure error which cleared itself after a short drive.
Simples
Just read this thread, I see the OP said disconnect the positive terminal 1st and connect the positive terminal last. From experience I'd not do this. If the spanner accidentally contacts any metalwork when disconnecting the +ve terminal then you can have a spark and damage paintwork or even worse. I'd always disconnect the -ve terminal first then the +ve and connect the +ve terminal first.
mikecassie said:
Just read this thread, I see the OP said disconnect the positive terminal 1st and connect the positive terminal last. From experience I'd not do this. If the spanner accidentally contacts any metalwork when disconnecting the +ve terminal then you can have a spark and damage paintwork or even worse. I'd always disconnect the -ve terminal first then the +ve and connect the +ve terminal first.
This^^^^^Pistonheads Battery Brain Trust needed!
(aka another battery maintenance thread)
My 997 gets stored for several months, and shocker - the battery becomes heavily discharged. I try to trickle it from time to time (no sniggering) but I cannot leave the charger connected for long periods unfortunately (due to car park location). So I would like to keep a spare battery charged indoors, then swap it in periodically.
At the same time, I would like to keep charge CONSTANT to the vehicle's electronics while I remove the depleted battery (so that I don't lose ECU settings etc, the alarm still works, and so that I'm not constantly breaking and reconnecting power).
Plan would be to connect second GOOD battery via jump leads to the car's connectors, remove depleted battery, then swap it back in later once reconditioned (and repeat...). This means two batteries of differing voltage would be briefly connected at the same time. Will the voltage difference between the two batteries cause a problem if they are only connected for a short period? I have read this might not be a good idea. I won't be trying to start the car with both batteries connected.
The other solution might be to use an ODB2 memory saver to maintain settings, but I'd still be yanking and reconnecting a live battery every month. Perhaps I'm being over sensitive on that part, i don't know?
Many thanks as always
(aka another battery maintenance thread)
My 997 gets stored for several months, and shocker - the battery becomes heavily discharged. I try to trickle it from time to time (no sniggering) but I cannot leave the charger connected for long periods unfortunately (due to car park location). So I would like to keep a spare battery charged indoors, then swap it in periodically.
At the same time, I would like to keep charge CONSTANT to the vehicle's electronics while I remove the depleted battery (so that I don't lose ECU settings etc, the alarm still works, and so that I'm not constantly breaking and reconnecting power).
Plan would be to connect second GOOD battery via jump leads to the car's connectors, remove depleted battery, then swap it back in later once reconditioned (and repeat...). This means two batteries of differing voltage would be briefly connected at the same time. Will the voltage difference between the two batteries cause a problem if they are only connected for a short period? I have read this might not be a good idea. I won't be trying to start the car with both batteries connected.
The other solution might be to use an ODB2 memory saver to maintain settings, but I'd still be yanking and reconnecting a live battery every month. Perhaps I'm being over sensitive on that part, i don't know?
Many thanks as always
Fl0pp3r said:
Pistonheads Battery Brain Trust needed!
(aka another battery maintenance thread)
My 997 gets stored for several months, and shocker - the battery becomes heavily discharged. I try to trickle it from time to time (no sniggering) but I cannot leave the charger connected for long periods unfortunately (due to car park location). So I would like to keep a spare battery charged indoors, then swap it in periodically.
At the same time, I would like to keep charge CONSTANT to the vehicle's electronics while I remove the depleted battery (so that I don't lose ECU settings etc, the alarm still works, and so that I'm not constantly breaking and reconnecting power).
Plan would be to connect second GOOD battery via jump leads to the car's connectors, remove depleted battery, then swap it back in later once reconditioned (and repeat...). This means two batteries of differing voltage would be briefly connected at the same time. Will the voltage difference between the two batteries cause a problem if they are only connected for a short period? I have read this might not be a good idea. I won't be trying to start the car with both batteries connected.
The other solution might be to use an ODB2 memory saver to maintain settings, but I'd still be yanking and reconnecting a live battery every month. Perhaps I'm being over sensitive on that part, i don't know?
Many thanks as always
But if your battery goes flat you will lose all settings anyway. Once your battery goes really really dead, I found out that you need a really powerful 12V on to the internal terminals to get the bonnet to release. There was time once when I'd left the car that long it just wouldn't release the bonnet. Local indy advised that this can happen and the next fallback plan is to jack up the front of the car, remove passenger side wheel, remove wheelarch lining and pull manual release wire. Moral of the story ... try not to let you battery get very dead! (aka another battery maintenance thread)
My 997 gets stored for several months, and shocker - the battery becomes heavily discharged. I try to trickle it from time to time (no sniggering) but I cannot leave the charger connected for long periods unfortunately (due to car park location). So I would like to keep a spare battery charged indoors, then swap it in periodically.
At the same time, I would like to keep charge CONSTANT to the vehicle's electronics while I remove the depleted battery (so that I don't lose ECU settings etc, the alarm still works, and so that I'm not constantly breaking and reconnecting power).
Plan would be to connect second GOOD battery via jump leads to the car's connectors, remove depleted battery, then swap it back in later once reconditioned (and repeat...). This means two batteries of differing voltage would be briefly connected at the same time. Will the voltage difference between the two batteries cause a problem if they are only connected for a short period? I have read this might not be a good idea. I won't be trying to start the car with both batteries connected.
The other solution might be to use an ODB2 memory saver to maintain settings, but I'd still be yanking and reconnecting a live battery every month. Perhaps I'm being over sensitive on that part, i don't know?
Many thanks as always
My old 987 the radio code is from memory stored in the ecu in the rear boot. So no issue taking the battery off at all but i did put the key in the ignition prior to disconnecting.
Also the front trunk, when connecting a power supply to the pin in the fuse box, sometimes it wouldn’t open but try both the remote key and the switch on the sill. Again I can’t remember which normally wouldnt work but the other one always did.
Also the front trunk, when connecting a power supply to the pin in the fuse box, sometimes it wouldn’t open but try both the remote key and the switch on the sill. Again I can’t remember which normally wouldnt work but the other one always did.
987.2 S battery change...everything off key out door open, disconected the battery and removed it, new battery in re-connected, switched on started traction control light remained lit which went out after driving.
However I asked at the OPC (where I bought the battery) if my Cayman needed coded, no they said only the later models with Stop-Start, so thats some info to remember.
The battery was dead in mine, I tried to jump it which blew the Bose raido fuses..???, just be careful jump starting these cars.
However I asked at the OPC (where I bought the battery) if my Cayman needed coded, no they said only the later models with Stop-Start, so thats some info to remember.
The battery was dead in mine, I tried to jump it which blew the Bose raido fuses..???, just be careful jump starting these cars.
Edited by Klippie on Sunday 22 January 14:56
James44 said:
Fl0pp3r said:
Pistonheads Battery Brain Trust needed!
(aka another battery maintenance thread)
My 997 gets stored for several months, and shocker - the battery becomes heavily discharged. I try to trickle it from time to time (no sniggering) but I cannot leave the charger connected for long periods unfortunately (due to car park location). So I would like to keep a spare battery charged indoors, then swap it in periodically.
At the same time, I would like to keep charge CONSTANT to the vehicle's electronics while I remove the depleted battery (so that I don't lose ECU settings etc, the alarm still works, and so that I'm not constantly breaking and reconnecting power).
Plan would be to connect second GOOD battery via jump leads to the car's connectors, remove depleted battery, then swap it back in later once reconditioned (and repeat...). This means two batteries of differing voltage would be briefly connected at the same time. Will the voltage difference between the two batteries cause a problem if they are only connected for a short period? I have read this might not be a good idea. I won't be trying to start the car with both batteries connected.
The other solution might be to use an ODB2 memory saver to maintain settings, but I'd still be yanking and reconnecting a live battery every month. Perhaps I'm being over sensitive on that part, i don't know?
Many thanks as always
But if your battery goes flat you will lose all settings anyway. Once your battery goes really really dead, I found out that you need a really powerful 12V on to the internal terminals to get the bonnet to release. There was time once when I'd left the car that long it just wouldn't release the bonnet. Local indy advised that this can happen and the next fallback plan is to jack up the front of the car, remove passenger side wheel, remove wheelarch lining and pull manual release wire. Moral of the story ... try not to let you battery get very dead! (aka another battery maintenance thread)
My 997 gets stored for several months, and shocker - the battery becomes heavily discharged. I try to trickle it from time to time (no sniggering) but I cannot leave the charger connected for long periods unfortunately (due to car park location). So I would like to keep a spare battery charged indoors, then swap it in periodically.
At the same time, I would like to keep charge CONSTANT to the vehicle's electronics while I remove the depleted battery (so that I don't lose ECU settings etc, the alarm still works, and so that I'm not constantly breaking and reconnecting power).
Plan would be to connect second GOOD battery via jump leads to the car's connectors, remove depleted battery, then swap it back in later once reconditioned (and repeat...). This means two batteries of differing voltage would be briefly connected at the same time. Will the voltage difference between the two batteries cause a problem if they are only connected for a short period? I have read this might not be a good idea. I won't be trying to start the car with both batteries connected.
The other solution might be to use an ODB2 memory saver to maintain settings, but I'd still be yanking and reconnecting a live battery every month. Perhaps I'm being over sensitive on that part, i don't know?
Many thanks as always
Anyhow I’d like to keep a second battery ready-to-go and swap it in periodically before we get to that critical point, then recondition the extracted one as I say. The question is how to do that swap safely. Any thoughts?
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