Aston Martin DB7 Vantage 2003 won't start
Discussion
I have a 2003 Aston Martin DB7 Vantage and when I try to start the Red button just clicks . I did read an old thread that suggested this could be just a bad battery . I tried the battery voltage which was around 12.58V and 12.6 after conditioner was plugged in for a day. I got a new battery and have fitted it today after taking the plastic boot liner out to get at the clamp (What a messing about) and managed to get everything back. The car still won't start and red button just clicks. The thread I read previously suggested that if it wasn't the battery it could be the connection from the battery lead to the starter solenoid that comes loose and needs tightening at the solenoid. Does anyone have a clue where the starter solenoid is and whether it can be accessed by an amateur? I don't really want to have to call anyone out at great expense for what could be a loose nut. Does anyone have any guide or directions for accessing the starter solenoid for me to try this? Any help would be very much appreciated. I have just spent £1000 having welding done to replace sections of the inner wheel arches and the floor because Ford decided to stop using rustproofing on the later models and I could do with keeping the cost of this latest fix to a minimum after a £770 bill for servicing and repairs in October.
The solenoid is on the side of the starter motor. Check connections etc and give it a crack with the shaft of a hammer or similar.
MAKE SURE YOU DISCONNECT THE BATTERY BEFORE PUTTING A SPANNER ON THE SOLENOID CABLES. The big cable is live and might weld (and your burn your hand)the spanner to any earth you might accidently touch.
MAKE SURE YOU DISCONNECT THE BATTERY BEFORE PUTTING A SPANNER ON THE SOLENOID CABLES. The big cable is live and might weld (and your burn your hand)the spanner to any earth you might accidently touch.
TheDavros said:
I got a new battery and have fitted it today after taking the plastic boot liner out to get at the clamp (What a messing about) and managed to get everything back.
Not connected to the issue, but make sure you have reconnected the breather pipe from the battery to the outside of the car, assuming your car has the pipe and the battery has a vent!On my 2000 Vantage Volante, the breather pipe is to the rear of the battery, adjacent to the back of the rear seats.
It consists of a plastic pipe with a small 90 degree bend at one end and exits the car via a rubber pipe under the boot floorpan. It plugs in to a suitably positioned hole on the side of the battery.
V12Vanquish said:
The solenoid is on the side of the starter motor. Check connections etc and give it a crack with the shaft of a hammer or similar.
MAKE SURE YOU DISCONNECT THE BATTERY BEFORE PUTTING A SPANNER ON THE SOLENOID CABLES. The big cable is live and might weld (and your burn your hand)the spanner to any earth you might accidently touch.
^^^^^THIS!^^^^^ I had exactly the same issue with my 2000 7V. The cable was only just sitting on the solenoid and displayed the symptoms you've described, so even if it looks connected it may need a wiggle, obviously taking precautions mentioned above.MAKE SURE YOU DISCONNECT THE BATTERY BEFORE PUTTING A SPANNER ON THE SOLENOID CABLES. The big cable is live and might weld (and your burn your hand)the spanner to any earth you might accidently touch.
Thanks for all the replies Guys. I have ordered some axle stands and a trolley jack online so I can get the thing up off the ground a bit to have a look underneath. Access is the first problem, especially when you don't have all the tools and a garage with a ramp. I haven't done much diy mechanics since I had a mini as a kid (I'm 56 now and a bit creaky) but the cost of garage repairs since I got the Aston is making me think I've got to give it a go if only because I couldn't even get the car to a garage without more cost in transporting it there. I must admit that when you look at that V12 on the Aston you realise you aren't dealing with a mini. Oh for the joys of such a simple car. But then again it didn't do 0-60 in 5 seconds, more like 5 minutes if you were lucky. It was a 1963 Morris mini 850. (Cost £77.50) ie less than the new battery I just bought for the Aston that it appears I didn't need.
I will let you know if I manage to solve the problem and thanks again for your replies.
David.
I will let you know if I manage to solve the problem and thanks again for your replies.
David.
Hi The Davros and all, had the same problem today, the car, 2004 DB7 V12 Vantage was last used about a week ago, of course the alarm flashing away and the clock continually going takes a drain on the battery so before todays run I put the intelligent charger on it for about an hour, the car started fine, went on the approx 3 mile initial journey and stopped the engine, after about 5 minutes went to start again and -- click click, went opposite to a tyre company and a couple of guys helped out - jump starting from another battery, she started; not wishing to risk stopping and not restarting I drove the car to my local specialist, well actually a Jag specialist, and it's there now, I'll let him have the ideas here to help out. Anyway, flippin' annoying when it happens. Tony. PS Bouldermobile, would you mind sending me the same info as you did to David? thanks, Tony.
Edited by Tonythesalesman on Saturday 15th March 00:28
I got my DB7 up on axle stands and got underneath. The problem is access since even with the axle stands there is not much space under there. The starter motor and solenoid are in the most inaccessible place tucked up behind the catalytic convertor of the exhaust. I can see the nut and lead that attaches to the solenoid but can't see the main lead from the battery to the starter which must be tucked away out of view when you are led on your back with inches to move. I can't get further back to view it from behind because the lift from the axle stands diminishes as you go further back and I can't physically get there. I had thought that I might call a mobile auto electrician but is he going to come out and find the same problem with me paying a fee and getting nowhere. Does anyone know how well equipped these guys tend to be?, are they likely to be used to such a cluttered inaccessible job or do they mainly sort flat batteries and electric window failures? It is so annoying that it may just be a loose nut on the starter feed wire but I can't see it or reach it. Might I have more luck jacking the drivers side of the car up and putting axle stands front and back on that side. I would be interested to know how anyone who has done this job at home got access without a pit or a ramp? Any thoughts would be appreciated.
By the way I tried the jump lead form the engine to the car body to see if the earth from the engine was the problem but that didn't seem to work. Having said that it is difficult to know where to connect the jump lead to be sure of getting a good contact. Thanks to Chris for that suggestion anyway but does anyone know the best place to connect the lead? I ran it from the engine lifting bracket to where the earth lead on the bonnet attaches to the front of the car. This still didn't make any difference. Most of the top of the engine is shrouded with plastic coated finishes and even the lifting bracket looks like it might be coated so I may not be getting a good connection. New jump leads bought for that by the way. I am going to be a fully equipped mechanic by the time I finish and the car still won't start.
You really want the car higher, jack it up, put boards under the wheels, let it down, jack it up again with boards under the jack and more boards under the wheels. If you use good timber of the correct size on level ground it should be perfectly safe, I frequently use my inspection pit cover boards, if the pit is in use with an immobile car. You should be able to get it up to a reasonably height to properly underneath. I have not worked on a DB7, but can you easily unbolt the cat to get better access. If the exhaust is close to the starter over time the heat may have made it lazy. If you have access did you give it a couple of good sharp taps as I suggested in case its stuck. I did this a while ago on an old Fiesta that had been sitting a few weeks and it has worked perfectly ever since.
Neil1300r said:
AMOC has a lot more experience of DB7's best to ask there. However, would imagine the connector will be the cable on the starter motor from your description
As mentioned by Neil. Type in Starter motor removal in their search engine and you will find what you are looking for. You wont be happy, it looks quite a job.David , it sounds like you have used the correct connection points for the jump lead check , certainly the engine lifting bracket is fine . It may be worth removing the two beautification panels covering the inner wing areas to try and find a more substantial earth point , I cant quite recall what's under there but its a two minute job to check , just remove the bonnet side seals that run up the length of the wing flange and release the spring loaded screws that hold the panel in place and lift up . The starter motor could not be in a more difficult position and I think laying on your back with the exhaust in situ you may be struggling , as per your symptoms ,this does sound to be the route cause , however if your vehicle is manual transmission the clutch switch maybe defective , also try putting a socket on the front crankshaft pulley and try to turn the engine clockwise , if the starter bendix has somehow jammed on the ring gear you may be lucky and it will release .
Good luck .
Good luck .
I have had the beautification panels off and am reluctant to earth the engine to anywhere near where there is some other wiring or electrical equipment. The car is an automatic so a bump start isn't possible. I wonder whether due to the size of the 5.9 l engine turning it over by hand with a spanner would be realistic and whether it might cause any other problems? I have checked the wire to the starter solenoid which seems secure but can't see the main lead from the battery to the dynamo due to the clutter including the exhaust catalyst. Has anyone who has had this problem known the main power wire from the battery to the starter come loose or has it been the solenoid lead which I can see and which seems secure. I got the suggestion about putting the car on blocks of wood to get it higher but would need a lot of thick planks sawn into fairly short sections to do that. My wife is not keen on that idea because there is nowhere to put it all afterwards. I dare say the amount and thickness of wood required would also make this expensive. I have a mobile auto electrician coming to see it in a couple of days time and will see if he can do anything. After that it may have to be a Chinook helicopter to take it to Aston Martin headquarters although unfortunately I don't know Prince William to be able to ask him for a favour. If any of you do know him perhaps you could put a word in for me. PS. don't tell his mother because she doesn't like him using the firms equipment for private jobs.
Problem with starting now solved. The Auto Electrician was able to get better access to the starter from just behind the drivers side front wheel arch with the front end of the car on axle stands and although the power to the starter and the solenoid were both ok the problem was a bad connection where the lead from the solenoid connects to the side of the starter motor. The nut was actually marked where it had been sparking and trying to make a circuit. He put a new nut on the connection and it fired first time. Thankfully I have avoided a trip on a trailer to a garage. Thanks for everyone's help and I hope that this answer may save someone else a garage bill in the future.
David
David
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