Locking wheel nuts check
Discussion
Just thought I'd post this as something else to check.
I decided to check the wear on the rear brake pads last weekend which I hadn't done for a while, everything was fine. But when tightening up the locking wheel nuts both of them sheared off, closer inspection showed that they had cracked around the circumference at some point - before my ownership judging by the rust and I'm guessing down to over tightening, maybe with an air gun? The cracking was high up on the nut and covered by the socket when taking them off and on so I would not have noticed it. I've replaced the lot now. Glad I found the problem with the car in my garage and not by the side of the road with a puncture!
I decided to check the wear on the rear brake pads last weekend which I hadn't done for a while, everything was fine. But when tightening up the locking wheel nuts both of them sheared off, closer inspection showed that they had cracked around the circumference at some point - before my ownership judging by the rust and I'm guessing down to over tightening, maybe with an air gun? The cracking was high up on the nut and covered by the socket when taking them off and on so I would not have noticed it. I've replaced the lot now. Glad I found the problem with the car in my garage and not by the side of the road with a puncture!
glenrobbo said:
How did you remove the rest of the sheared-off locking nuts from the studs?
They sheared before they were fully tightened and it wasn't a straight shear, in both cases there was a 'shoulder' left in place, so I put the the broken piece back in place and pushed it in as hard as I could with the wheel brace while undoing at the same time.I'm wondering if the locking nuts were bottoming on the stud before they actually tightened fully onto the taper seat of the wheel?
That would put the nut under a lot of stress, & could cause a fracture as described, in the nut.
I've just had this issue with a nice new shiny set of wheelnuts. The blind tapped holes were a tad shallower run the old nuts, so when fully tightened onto the stud, there was a tiny bit of play beteen the wheels & the hubs.
Solution: - Fitted 2mm wheel spacers. Sorted.
( At first I thought it was a knacketed propshaft u/j. )
That would put the nut under a lot of stress, & could cause a fracture as described, in the nut.
I've just had this issue with a nice new shiny set of wheelnuts. The blind tapped holes were a tad shallower run the old nuts, so when fully tightened onto the stud, there was a tiny bit of play beteen the wheels & the hubs.
Solution: - Fitted 2mm wheel spacers. Sorted.
( At first I thought it was a knacketed propshaft u/j. )
A very good point and absolutely correct - a piece of blue tak was compressed when I tried one of the old nuts - the new ones are 5mm longer so no problem. I guess it would also explain why the nuts on the front were OK as its a different set up with discs on the hub. Thanks for that.
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