Handbrake Adjuster
Handbrake Adjuster
Author
Discussion

Lewis's Friend

Original Poster:

1,064 posts

219 months

Friday 21st March 2014
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Hi All

I currently have my car up on axle stands doing the rear chassis (no rot happily - just surface scabbing). However, just before this the handbrake stopped working suddenly and completely.

Looking at the Steve Heath book, I found an adjuster for it. I'm a bit confused though how the adjuster actually works. Is it just changing the handbrake lever stroke length, and the self-adjusters in the drum do the rest or what?

Cheers

phillpot

17,508 posts

212 months

Friday 21st March 2014
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Yep,big white nylon thing just above the diff/prop flange roughly. It makes the outer cable longer, taking up a bit of "slack" on the inner cable.

Edited by phillpot on Friday 21st March 11:32

glenrobbo

40,448 posts

179 months

Friday 21st March 2014
quotequote all
If it stopped working "suddenly & completely" as you say, it's more likely to be a broken cable or cable end, either inside the drum at the attachment to the brake shoe lever arm; or along the cable run under the car at the cable joins.
Remove both rear drums to check, and also check the automatic adjuster snail cams, the serrations can wear, causing slipping & loss of adjustment.
Also check both wheel cylinders for leaking brake fluid, if this gets on the shoes, they are useless.
HTH,
Glen.

Lewis's Friend

Original Poster:

1,064 posts

219 months

Friday 21st March 2014
quotequote all
Hi, thanks for the feedback.

I am stripping both sides down completely as part of the chassis work, so I'll double check it all then.

unicorn77

53 posts

194 months

Saturday 22nd March 2014
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Mine does not do much, and hasn't for some years. I don't do anything myself so I've asked for it to be adjusted at services but apparently it's already at the end of it's adjustment. Is the only answer to have it completely renewed?

Even so, it has passed many MOT's as such. Is there a measure of what it must do (if anything)?

It's OK on the level but the slightest slope and it's useless. I've got in the habit of leaving it in gear when the engine is stopped. I ALWAYS (in any car) engage the clutch when switching on.......

phillpot

17,508 posts

212 months

Saturday 22nd March 2014
quotequote all
unicorn77 said:
Is there a measure of what it must do ?
Yes, MOT bays have observation windows these days, you'll see the guy put it on the rollers and test front, rear and hand brake.

Some might say "it's a TVR don't expect the handbrake to work" but there is no reason at all why it shouldn't work perfectly well, drum or disc brakes, it's all basically Ford stuff and I don't recall Sierra's being renowned for useless handbrakes?
A common excuse is "the cables stretched", a steel cable doesn't stretch that much however with age the inner cable does not slide so well in the outer cable. Had mine off, drip fed oil down it until it appeared out the other end, all felt fine but still not brilliant when re-fitted..... new cable made a massive difference.
I'd happily park mine on the edge of a mountain, in neutral smile



Edited by phillpot on Saturday 22 March 16:53

william weir

75 posts

156 months

Saturday 22nd March 2014
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hi you could start with the automatic adusters in the rear drums thay could be sezied try adusting them manuly one or two clicks at a time until drum just clears brake shoes all this done with slack in handbrake cable

william weir

75 posts

156 months

Saturday 22nd March 2014
quotequote all
hi you could start with the automatic adusters in the rear drums thay could be sezied try adusting them manuly one or two clicks at a time until drum just clears brake shoes all this done with slack in handbrake cable

unicorn77

53 posts

194 months

Sunday 23rd March 2014
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OK, thanks. I think the automatic adjusters are already at their limit, so I may as well get a new cable. Sorry for the thread hijack.