Wedge 390 diff output oil seals

[wild rover]

Can any one provide the part no for the seals or best supplier.
Meant thanks

[Jack Valiant]

You will need the Saulsbury LSD crush washers and the oil seals .... give these guys a call:

http://www.rwdmotorsport.com/differential.html

Chris

[mrzigazaga]

Hi mate...Are these any good?...Ziga
http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&...

[wild rover]

Thanks for the info

[Wedg1e]

I think I got most of my bits from David Manners:

http://www.jagspares.co.uk/Manners/KeyView.asp?key...

The diff output seals are best described as 'entertaining' to change. You don't need the crush pieces if you mark the relevant bits in relation to each other before dismantling - as long as you aren't replacing the bearings as well. I covered my diff overhaul here:

http://www.wedgeneering.co.uk/TVR%20390SE%20p13.ht...

I found the bearings were in excellent condition and wouldn't like to bet that new ones would be as long-lasting so I elected to retain them.

The pinion (nose) seal is easy enough to change so you may as well do that whilst you're at it

[mrzigazaga]

Wedg1e said:

The pinion (nose) seal is easy enough to change so you may as well do that whilst you're at it

I have a feeling mine may be leaking from there mate...Is it definitely doable on the car?...Whats involved...Obviously its a prop off job...Ziga

[Wedg1e]

mrzigazaga said:

I have a feeling mine may be leaking from there mate...Is it definitely doable on the car?...Whats involved...Obviously its a prop off job...Ziga

Prop off, drop the diff oil (may as well renew it anyway), make up a bar with two bolts through to hold the flange still while you undo the nut.
Use a centrepunch (an auto one is easier) to mark the nut, shaft and flange in a line (see pic. on my webpage above).
Then unscrew the nut counting the number of turns until it reaches the end of the thread.
Slide the washer and flange off, drill a 3 or 4mm hole in the 'trench' part of the seal and screw in a No.8 or 10 woodscrew, just a few turns.
Ideally use a slide hammer (but Moles grips and a hammer would work eventually though you might have to drill two holes diagonally opposite and work on them alternately) to yank the old seal out.
Clear out any swarf from the drilling (DON'T blow it!).
Square up new seal, tap it in, reinstall flange, washer and nut, aligning the centrepunch marks to get the flange back on the shaft in the right orientation.
Now lock the flange again and wind the nut on EXACTLY the same number of turns you unscrewed it: when the flange's punch mark lines up with the other two you're there

ETA photo...

Edited by Wedg1e on Tuesday 25th March 01:01

[mrzigazaga]

Thanks for that mate..Sounds fairly straight forward..What about a front diff seal replacement demo also at the fest...

[Wedg1e]

mrzigazaga said:

Thanks for that mate..Sounds fairly straight forward..What about a front diff seal replacement demo also at the fest...

Aye no probs: whip the diff out and get it on a table in the Chase bar and we'll soon fettle it

[hallsie]

Wedg1e said:

Aye no probs: whip the diff out and get it on a table in the Chase bar and we'll soon fettle it

Ive got a spare diff that I may be able to bring!

Can you clean and paint to too???

Stu

[wild rover]

Thanks for your input, took your advice now replaced.

[adam quantrill]

Stu you missed a trick there mate - it's not often I see a picture with a flange, a shaft and a nut on this forum....

Wedg1e said:

Edited by Wedg1e on Tuesday 25th March 01:01

[hallsie]

adam quantrill said:

hehehehehehe, makes my wife giggle when I mention any of the above too!

Stu

[Wedg1e]

hallsie said:

hehehehehehe, makes my wife giggle when I mention any of the above too!

Stu

Next time you do a bit of welding/fabrication, make sure to get a few gussets in there as well

Edit: and grease your nipples frequently

Edited by Wedg1e on Friday 28th March 17:34