Am I going mad?

[dnb]

Not in general of course, because I know the answer to that one...

I have just set the timing up on the new Griff engine and when I trial fitted the timing cover I noticed the timing marks on the damper were 180 degrees out.

Did Bill turn the crank inside out when he balanced it to confuse me?
I'm sure they used to be more right than that, but I can't recall ever relying on them because various people told me to not trust them...

So, is it unknown for the timing marks to be set up for cyls 4 and 7 rather than 1 and 6?

[gruffalo]

Don't forget the cam speed is half of crank speed so it is entirely possible to have the timing 180deg out, it needs correcting.

[TVR Beaver]

gruffalo said:

Don't forget the cam speed is half of crank speed so it is entirely possible to have the timing 180deg out, it needs correcting.

He's talking 180 on the crank.. so the key must be 180 deg out in the pulley (or crank )?.... as you say... just use the other pots to time up...
good you spotted it... could have had you going for ages that one

Edited by TVR Beaver on Monday 24th March 09:01

[spend]

Did you get your own crank back, or an exchange one?

Either the keyway on the crank or damper could have been recut to repair (it might be obvious to cut them on the opposite side if they had been damaged).

[dnb]

It should be my own crank back. Indeed it looks like mine, but there are no definite ID marks. I can't see any sign of damage & repair, and there would have been no need to do such a repair on my crank or pulley. As I say, it could have been like it forever, but I didn't think it was. (But my memory for such details can be sketchy)

I just don't like mysteries.

[dnb]

It would seem I'm not going mad (about the crank damper, at least). The rubber bonding has given up and the damper section rotates relatively freely around on the centre - Yet another piece of knackered Griff. I am beginning to wonder how the heck the engine ran at all.

It looks like I need a new damper now.

[TVR Beaver]

John Eales does nice (rubber band) ones. I'm guessing someone will be along in a bit saying 'fluid damped ones'. Are your bits internaly balanced?

[dnb]

I had the crank internally balanced for this rebuild. It would seem it was easily worth the money.

[Sardonicus]

dnb said:

It would seem I'm not going mad (about the crank damper, at least). The rubber bonding has given up and the damper section rotates relatively freely around on the centre - Yet another piece of knackered Griff. I am beginning to wonder how the heck the engine ran at all.

It looks like I need a new damper now.

Not seen this happen on one of these cars ... yet but I have seen a few Mitsubishi's do said failure a fluid damper would be nice like mentioned already

[dnb]

Mine's got 150k on it, so well above average for a Griffith. If there's an interesting problem I seem to get it first...

[Bluebottle]

dnb said:

It would seem I'm not going mad (about the crank damper, at least). The rubber bonding has given up and the damper section rotates relatively freely around on the centre - Yet another piece of knackered Griff. I am beginning to wonder how the heck the engine ran at all.

It looks like I need a new damper now.

I've had three dampers do that to me...I wonder what the factory torque rating is for them?

[dnb]

Probably less than 350 ftlbs

I've bought a competition dampers from JE so hopefully it won't be a problem again.

[spend]

dnb said:

Probably less than 350 ftlbs

I've bought a competition dampers from JE so hopefully it won't be a problem again.

That's still just a rubber band glued in though isn't it?

I've only seen the one novel arrangement that uses elastomer but doesn't rely on a glue sandwich, the ATI superdampers IIRC.