Replacing track rod ends
Discussion
As mentioned in my previous post - MOT time approaches and I'm trying to put right all things I know are wrong with my motor, like perishing steering rack gators and track rod end rubbers.
My question is this. Is replacing track rod ends fairly straight forward? Can I asume that all rod ends for the elise will be the same dimensions. In other words, can I remove the old ones keeping the lock nut in place and refit new ones (elise parts jobs probably) and simply wind them up to the lock nut?
I guess there could be some dimensioal variation between parts which might mean that my steering geo will be trown out if I use this method? Right?
Also, are steering rack gaitors easy to replace. Guess it's best to do this at the same time as rod ends.
Think that's it
Many thanks
DSS
My question is this. Is replacing track rod ends fairly straight forward? Can I asume that all rod ends for the elise will be the same dimensions. In other words, can I remove the old ones keeping the lock nut in place and refit new ones (elise parts jobs probably) and simply wind them up to the lock nut?
I guess there could be some dimensioal variation between parts which might mean that my steering geo will be trown out if I use this method? Right?
Also, are steering rack gaitors easy to replace. Guess it's best to do this at the same time as rod ends.
Think that's it
Many thanks
DSS
no you can't assume that at all.
If it were me I'd fit the S2 TREs which are much better quality. (I always use them).
They have a longer body and use only one lock nut instaed of 2.
You can mark the absolute centre of the TRE tops and carefully measure to a point on the steering arm to get it as near as damn it, but I bet you don't get it quite right - what I'm saying is it will need a toe check. The slightest rotation will put it out.
As for the gaitors, it's not what I'd call an easy job, but with some VERY long nose pliers, some grease and some tie wraps you'll get them on. I've done dozens and it's still fiddly. Needs to be done whilst TREs are off, obviously.
If it were me I'd fit the S2 TREs which are much better quality. (I always use them).
They have a longer body and use only one lock nut instaed of 2.
You can mark the absolute centre of the TRE tops and carefully measure to a point on the steering arm to get it as near as damn it, but I bet you don't get it quite right - what I'm saying is it will need a toe check. The slightest rotation will put it out.
As for the gaitors, it's not what I'd call an easy job, but with some VERY long nose pliers, some grease and some tie wraps you'll get them on. I've done dozens and it's still fiddly. Needs to be done whilst TREs are off, obviously.
I did the gaitors and track rod ends recently and had some really major issues trying to fit the proper Lotus gaitors - the recent batch are made of very stiff rubber. I ended up having to remove the rack to do the job properly 
as it's very tricky to get at the rack in situ even when using the hot water and washing liquid routine on the gaitors.
Even then, I still ended up using 2 pairs of Fiat Uno gaitors from a motorfactor instead - they were of a higher quality.
In hindsight I'd go for the Elisepart gaitors that I've only recently discovered - they've got a larger hole on the rack end.
As previously mentioned there are two rod-end lengths, and if you are really patient and mark the nut flats before removal, count the turns off, measure the difference between the two and reverse the proceedure you can get close to the correct toe-in - I got to a degree/minute or two off on each side
but I recommend having it track checked after.
John S.
as it's very tricky to get at the rack in situ even when using the hot water and washing liquid routine on the gaitors. Even then, I still ended up using 2 pairs of Fiat Uno gaitors from a motorfactor instead - they were of a higher quality.
In hindsight I'd go for the Elisepart gaitors that I've only recently discovered - they've got a larger hole on the rack end.
As previously mentioned there are two rod-end lengths, and if you are really patient and mark the nut flats before removal, count the turns off, measure the difference between the two and reverse the proceedure you can get close to the correct toe-in - I got to a degree/minute or two off on each side
but I recommend having it track checked after. John S.
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