Sheddy Chimaera 500
Discussion
After much agonising and searching last Monday I colected my Chimaera and drove it back from Manchester, taking a slight detour To Blackpool on the way home.
Here it is.
I sertainly wasnt wrong, this is exactly the car I was looking for, heavy and mechanical and a bit of a chalange to drive. It makes my Celica feel like a shopping car, which I guess it is, apart from the fact this thing actualy has a bigger boot. I am proud to say this will almost sertainly be the best car I ever own.
In a single week I feel like I have had the complete TVR ownership experience. Quite a feat, considering Ive been working every day since I bought it.
The first sign of trouble was a consistant temperature reading above 90degrees while on the motorway at 70mph. This problem persisted and meant an easy 5 hour journey turned into a 10 hour journey, broken up with regular cooling stops and finaly in Glasgow a call to the AA, mainly because I didnt have a screwdriver to open the swirlpot.
So to sum up its loosing water somewhere at quite a rate.
My next problem was discovered the following day. I pulled over to answer my phone and the car stalled in neutral, then wouldnt start for a little while. 20 minutes later after another drive it wouldnt start after being parked for atleast 10 minutes.
I had the car out on saturday and it did this again, the last time was just outside the garage. So I expect this is what its likely to do every time I take it out now.
The third thing, and I hope this is the last problem for a little while atleast, involves the boot latch which now doesnt close.
Im going to need to post a picture of this one as its not too east to explain.
Today I decided to glue in the boot carpets, and while I was doing so I thought I would try and improve the alignment of the boot lid. Im not sure Ive actualy improved it but the bigger problem now is that the entire inner skin of the back of the boot has become detached from the shell meaning that the boot lock is free to move around inside the boot.
I cant blame TVR for this one as its clear to see that at some stage an angle grinder has been run along the inner edge of the boot in what looks like an aborted attempt to remove the inner skin. So I guess its no surprise that its finnaly decided to give way
Looks like I'll need to get the chopped strand mat out tomorow, atleast Ive got till the 14th for my service at TVR ecosse to get it drivable again.
They are good when they drive though arn't they?
Here it is.
I sertainly wasnt wrong, this is exactly the car I was looking for, heavy and mechanical and a bit of a chalange to drive. It makes my Celica feel like a shopping car, which I guess it is, apart from the fact this thing actualy has a bigger boot. I am proud to say this will almost sertainly be the best car I ever own.
In a single week I feel like I have had the complete TVR ownership experience. Quite a feat, considering Ive been working every day since I bought it.
The first sign of trouble was a consistant temperature reading above 90degrees while on the motorway at 70mph. This problem persisted and meant an easy 5 hour journey turned into a 10 hour journey, broken up with regular cooling stops and finaly in Glasgow a call to the AA, mainly because I didnt have a screwdriver to open the swirlpot.
So to sum up its loosing water somewhere at quite a rate.
My next problem was discovered the following day. I pulled over to answer my phone and the car stalled in neutral, then wouldnt start for a little while. 20 minutes later after another drive it wouldnt start after being parked for atleast 10 minutes.
I had the car out on saturday and it did this again, the last time was just outside the garage. So I expect this is what its likely to do every time I take it out now.
The third thing, and I hope this is the last problem for a little while atleast, involves the boot latch which now doesnt close.
Im going to need to post a picture of this one as its not too east to explain.
Today I decided to glue in the boot carpets, and while I was doing so I thought I would try and improve the alignment of the boot lid. Im not sure Ive actualy improved it but the bigger problem now is that the entire inner skin of the back of the boot has become detached from the shell meaning that the boot lock is free to move around inside the boot.
I cant blame TVR for this one as its clear to see that at some stage an angle grinder has been run along the inner edge of the boot in what looks like an aborted attempt to remove the inner skin. So I guess its no surprise that its finnaly decided to give way
Looks like I'll need to get the chopped strand mat out tomorow, atleast Ive got till the 14th for my service at TVR ecosse to get it drivable again.
They are good when they drive though arn't they?
Edited by MrSoundcraft on Wednesday 26th March 00:19
Welcome to the club, these things are quite a revelation after driving modernish shopping cars aren't they 
I'm going to take some random guesses at your problems because it's early and I'm bored.. Water loss will be the radiator, look at the bit of bodywork under the rad to see if it's wet. Google search for the TVR hot start mod to understand the probable reason for the car not starting after a run
I'm going to take some random guesses at your problems because it's early and I'm bored.. Water loss will be the radiator, look at the bit of bodywork under the rad to see if it's wet. Google search for the TVR hot start mod to understand the probable reason for the car not starting after a run
When I bought mine, drove it home, fantastic! Pulled on the drive went inside and dragged the kids outside to show it off.... and it was dead. Mrs was straight in with the clever comments.. 20 mins later fired up and ran like a dream.. Same again. As above came on here, had a diagnosis in 2 minutes, next day ( thanks to ChimponGas) bypassed imobiliser and all good ever since! . Ps mine had the hot start mod installed and still had problems.
Great cars! Is that your garage? Nice collection, mk4 golf, ? Toyota starlet,, and what is under the sheet?
Welcome to the club,,
Great cars! Is that your garage? Nice collection, mk4 golf, ? Toyota starlet,, and what is under the sheet?
Welcome to the club,,
I think you can still have problems if the hot-start mod wasn't installed early enough in the car's life.
As I understand it, the hot-start mod reduces the load on the backwards-wired relay in the immobiliser, which reduces the rate of erosion of its contacts to a level that's sort-of okay-ish. But if the contacts are already badly eroded...
As I understand it, the hot-start mod reduces the load on the backwards-wired relay in the immobiliser, which reduces the rate of erosion of its contacts to a level that's sort-of okay-ish. But if the contacts are already badly eroded...
Dr Mike Oxgreen said:
I think you can still have problems if the hot-start mod wasn't installed early enough in the car's life.
That may depend on the solution and who installs it.Mine was toast by the time Carl Baker fitted his hot start solution 5-6 years ago.
Never missed a beat since.
Your 3rd problem boot latch...
If it is the same as mine if your trying to slam in shut it wont!
Close the lid and push with your palm of the hand about where the catch is with some pressure.
Then with your cleaning cloth that you have in the car wipe away your hand print (Little bug bare for me)
Yours maybe the catch itself,but i know I could't close mine because I was trying to slam it shut. Push down with some pressure and mine closes every time...
Very nice looking car....
If it is the same as mine if your trying to slam in shut it wont!
Close the lid and push with your palm of the hand about where the catch is with some pressure.
Then with your cleaning cloth that you have in the car wipe away your hand print
(Little bug bare for me)Yours maybe the catch itself,but i know I could't close mine because I was trying to slam it shut. Push down with some pressure and mine closes every time...
Very nice looking car....
Not sure about this relay contact business back to front stuff personally 
the contacts are closed when the alarm is disabled they don't close and pass current ( close and arc) when they close the circuit is dead until the starter is cranked then they are live so contact erosion should be next to zero, if you don't get arcing then you don't get erosion 
more likely a case of the relays in the Meta unit are just not man enough full stop to pass solenoid trigger current directly i.e relay contacts too small in the 1st place & no hot start mod fitted like LR intended 
this is not open to debate by the way 
the contacts are closed when the alarm is disabled they don't close and pass current ( close and arc) when they close the circuit is dead until the starter is cranked then they are live so contact erosion should be next to zero, if you don't get arcing then you don't get erosion more likely a case of the relays in the Meta unit are just not man enough full stop to pass solenoid trigger current directly i.e relay contacts too small in the 1st place & no hot start mod fitted like LR intended this is not open to debate by the way I believe that the issue of back to front was that the META has two circuits one rated higher than the other, the starter/fuel circuits were wired back to front i.e high amperage starter on the the low amperage relay circuit and the lower amperage fuel pump on the higher amperage relay circuit.
Obviously over time the arcing etc cause the relay contacts to fail/breakdown causing the hot start issue, should the hot start fix be applied in time before the relay passes the point of too much strain then all is well for the forseeable future & if not nothing but a replacement or bypass will fix it.
TVR were famous for using some dubious grades of cable etc so the lack of a proper starter relay + the META relays possibly not being up to the job whether wired correctly or otherwise is probably bang on the money!
Regards
UKDJ
Obviously over time the arcing etc cause the relay contacts to fail/breakdown causing the hot start issue, should the hot start fix be applied in time before the relay passes the point of too much strain then all is well for the forseeable future & if not nothing but a replacement or bypass will fix it.
TVR were famous for using some dubious grades of cable etc so the lack of a proper starter relay + the META relays possibly not being up to the job whether wired correctly or otherwise is probably bang on the money!
Regards
UKDJ
Edited by ukdj on Wednesday 26th March 13:24
TVRJAS said:
Your 3rd problem boot latch...
If it is the same as mine if your trying to slam in shut it wont!
Close the lid and push with your palm of the hand about where the catch is with some pressure.
Then with your cleaning cloth that you have in the car wipe away your hand print (Little bug bare for me)
Yours maybe the catch itself,but i know I could't close mine because I was trying to slam it shut. Push down with some pressure and mine closes every time...
Very nice looking car....
I could have written that, as mine is identical! If it is the same as mine if your trying to slam in shut it wont!
Close the lid and push with your palm of the hand about where the catch is with some pressure.
Then with your cleaning cloth that you have in the car wipe away your hand print
(Little bug bare for me)Yours maybe the catch itself,but i know I could't close mine because I was trying to slam it shut. Push down with some pressure and mine closes every time...
Very nice looking car....
Welcome to the world of TVR.
Don't let these niggles put you off. I have owned mine for over 4 years and it has cost less than £300 a year in essential repairs (+ around £300-600 in voluntary expense). The radiators do tend to leak especially if it is still the original one. Mine leaked very slightly within the metal casing surrounding the rad and was not detectable apart from me having to add half a pint of coolant every month. Re-cored with a standard Land Rover triple core at a radiator specialist for £150 and no bother since. You could also check all the hoses for any tears/loose clips. I presume you have already checked the oil cap for any sludge indicating head gasket problems when you bought it? Do the fans kick in and out ok when you leave the car idling? a knackered otter switch (£20) can cause the fans to be erratic or fail and cause the engine to run hot.
Check the various forums on here for the hot start problem and the kit to remedy it.
If you are good with a multimeter you could check the servo electrics for the boot fault. I'd probably let the pros sort it in 1 hour for £50.
Have fun and watch the back end when gunning it on bends, wet and over white lines/cats eyes (wheelspun mine in 3rd a few times through loss of traction over cats eyes - I did remove the stains after a few washes, with some of that vanish!)
Don't let these niggles put you off. I have owned mine for over 4 years and it has cost less than £300 a year in essential repairs (+ around £300-600 in voluntary expense). The radiators do tend to leak especially if it is still the original one. Mine leaked very slightly within the metal casing surrounding the rad and was not detectable apart from me having to add half a pint of coolant every month. Re-cored with a standard Land Rover triple core at a radiator specialist for £150 and no bother since. You could also check all the hoses for any tears/loose clips. I presume you have already checked the oil cap for any sludge indicating head gasket problems when you bought it? Do the fans kick in and out ok when you leave the car idling? a knackered otter switch (£20) can cause the fans to be erratic or fail and cause the engine to run hot.
Check the various forums on here for the hot start problem and the kit to remedy it.
If you are good with a multimeter you could check the servo electrics for the boot fault. I'd probably let the pros sort it in 1 hour for £50.
Have fun and watch the back end when gunning it on bends, wet and over white lines/cats eyes (wheelspun mine in 3rd a few times through loss of traction over cats eyes - I did remove the stains after a few washes, with some of that vanish!)
Mine was very reluctant to restart sometimes after a hot drive in slow stop heavy traffic in hot weather. Hot start kit did not fix it either. Thought I needed heavy duty battery cables to fix this hot start problem. However, eureka last week, my starter motor gave up. Bought a new one from London and Essex electrical, £104 all in. This is a 2Kw motor not the usual 1.7Kw and it spins my 500 like a Dervish 
I have since tried to deliberaterately repeat my hot start problem but no success what so ever with this new starter. Lesson learnt, starter motors don't last for ever and loose their "oomph" when on hot load.
I have since tried to deliberaterately repeat my hot start problem but no success what so ever with this new starter. Lesson learnt, starter motors don't last for ever and loose their "oomph" when on hot load.EGB said:
Mine was very reluctant to restart sometimes after a hot drive in slow stop heavy traffic in hot weather. Hot start kit did not fix it either. Thought I needed heavy duty battery cables to fix this hot start problem. However, eureka last week, my starter motor gave up. Bought a new one from London and Essex electrical, £104 all in. This is a 2Kw motor not the usual 1.7Kw and it spins my 500 like a Dervish I have since tried to deliberaterately repeat my hot start problem but no success what so ever with this new starter. Lesson learnt, starter motors don't last for ever and loose their "oomph" when on hot load.
IMHO, the quote sums it up very nicely. The starters operate & live in a very hot (fibreglass holds the heat), dirty environment. I don't suppose anyone bothers in the 15'ish years that most/all Chims are reaching to remove the starter motor and give it a freshen up.....However, many of us go for the sticking plaster option of the hot start mod.I have since tried to deliberaterately repeat my hot start problem but no success what so ever with this new starter. Lesson learnt, starter motors don't last for ever and loose their "oomph" when on hot load.I would recommend that in the base, folks should start with a sound starter installation - i.e. wiring/connectors in good nick, motor removed, stripped, cleaned and greased - particularly solenoid, then re-assembled, maybe with new brushes and bearings checked. Now, with the motor back on the engine you are at least confident that any reluctance to start when hot is most likely an issue with the Meta alarm unit.
I had issues with the starter on my car where it was reluctant to disengage after the engine fired. On inspection, the starter shaft with the pinion gear/spring ass'y was covered in carbon/crud. Ten minutes cleaning this up, ensuring pinion slid easily on the shaft, and some high temp copper grease had the problem sorted...and this was a 8 year old car.
Nick
Also, I have put in a heat shield above the motor under the exhaust. A cut tailored piece of the Mrs or TESCO aluminium oven tray is ideal and pushed in. Stays in place. I emery brightened up all the motor contacts including the 100amp fuse. Seems I'm now getting a good 13v plus charge to the battery. Also some Ali capping on the engine rubber chassis blocks.
Hi, thanks everybody for the warm welcome. Im thinking of Joining the TVR car club, but theres so much info and chat here I might be OK putting it off a bit longer.
I forgot to get any after pictures but heres what happened in the boot
Looks a lot better now, especialy with the carpets stuck back on, maybe needs a bit more alignment, but I wont slam it again. Thanks TVRJAS.
Anyway the other cars in the garage belong to the other 2, and it now looks like there could be another Nissan Pulsar GTiR to join the project car in the last picture.
The other car I have is part of the spriget family.
But its only a 1500, that Ive been building for nearly 3 years now (I keep getting distracted by other projects).
I was reading up on the hot start issue a while ago, I believe it prevents the starter from even spinning? I know the number of components involved make it more diffucult to diagnose this type of fault, but In my case I believe it to be related to idling. I have an erratic speedo, which Ive heard can cause the car to stall.
I had the car out earlyer today and it broke down twice, the second time I was waiting to turn right at a junction when it stalled. The starter turns over nice and fast but it just wont fire up, until it decides it wants too.
Hopefully it can make it to Dundee, with out too many stops. Barry was very helpful when I started looking for one, and even though Im a bit of a cheapskate, it wasnt a hard desicion book it in for a service there. By the way Euan221 Im fairly near Kilmarnock. Maybe we could orginise some sort of TVR meet at Preswick Airport if there'd be any interest. It might be possible to arrange free parking, as I have done in the past.
I forgot to get any after pictures but heres what happened in the boot
Looks a lot better now, especialy with the carpets stuck back on, maybe needs a bit more alignment, but I wont slam it again. Thanks TVRJAS.
Anyway the other cars in the garage belong to the other 2, and it now looks like there could be another Nissan Pulsar GTiR to join the project car in the last picture.
The other car I have is part of the spriget family.
But its only a 1500, that Ive been building for nearly 3 years now (I keep getting distracted by other projects).
I was reading up on the hot start issue a while ago, I believe it prevents the starter from even spinning? I know the number of components involved make it more diffucult to diagnose this type of fault, but In my case I believe it to be related to idling. I have an erratic speedo, which Ive heard can cause the car to stall.
I had the car out earlyer today and it broke down twice, the second time I was waiting to turn right at a junction when it stalled. The starter turns over nice and fast but it just wont fire up, until it decides it wants too.
Hopefully it can make it to Dundee, with out too many stops. Barry was very helpful when I started looking for one, and even though Im a bit of a cheapskate, it wasnt a hard desicion book it in for a service there. By the way Euan221 Im fairly near Kilmarnock. Maybe we could orginise some sort of TVR meet at Preswick Airport if there'd be any interest. It might be possible to arrange free parking, as I have done in the past.
Edited by MrSoundcraft on Sunday 30th March 03:42
MrSoundcraft said:
Hi, thanks everybody for the warm welcome. Im thinking of Joining the TVR car club, but theres so much info and chat here I might be OK putting it off a bit longer.
I forgot to get any after pictures but heres what happened in the boot
Looks a lot better now, especialy with the carpets stuck back on, maybe needs a bit more alignment, but I wont slam it again. Thanks TVRJAS.
That doesn't look right, those panels should be joined together, shouldn't they? Have you just stuck the carpet over the gap or done something to rejoin tho inside and outside panels.I forgot to get any after pictures but heres what happened in the boot
Looks a lot better now, especialy with the carpets stuck back on, maybe needs a bit more alignment, but I wont slam it again. Thanks TVRJAS.
I had sort it out properly becuase the boot lock was several inches away from where it should have been. Ive used fibreglass resin as a glue on the inside of the panels where they meet, and on the outsite Ive used more sheets of fibreglass to hold it all together. With a bit more tidying to finnish it off it'll look pretty decent. The full back end of this car has been replaced around 5 years ago anyway, so im hardly spoiling its originality!
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