Size of Air Gap around Recessed TV

[anonymous-user]

I'm getting my money's worth this week on here

If I am going to recess this TV to avoid heat from the fir below, what air gap do I need all around?

http://www.samsung.com/uk/consumer/tv-audio-video/...

Also, does anyone know what the best bracket would be. I want this as close to the wall as possible so that we do not need a deep recess.

Thanks
Gary

Edited by anonymous-user on Monday 31st March 14:47

[anonymous-user]

Cheers Toxic!

I've actually purchased the TV today so that we can ensure all cables etc are in the right location when we install. The power points are set into the wall so there is nothing that should interfere with the TV.

Just to answer your Q - they are side mounted connections as below

Edited by anonymous-user on Monday 31st March 17:28

[warmfuzzies]

40mm around our panny plasma. log burner underneath, been there for a while, and no issues.

k.

[anonymous-user]

What bracket have you used warmfuzzies?

[warmfuzzies]

if I remember correctly, it's a Vogel, tilting forward by about 10 degrees, came from 'currys' yes I know could have gone elsewhere....I think there's a pic on my Facebook page, 964kevin.

Edited by warmfuzzies on Monday 31st March 20:05

[anonymous-user]

Cheers - just need to make sure I chose one that allows a good fit and access.

[megaphone]

Getting the bracket right is important if recessing. Remember you need enough gap at the top to lift the TV on/off the bracket. You need enough gap at the bottom to get a screwdriver or allen key on the retaining screws. (or you just leave it hanging without them). Some brackets have a retaining bar that slides in from the side, no good if your TV is recessed.

I've used a brackets similar to this in a recessed situation, it has pull cords that hang down the back to release the TV. Do your research, I just googled this as an example.

http://www.bracketsrus.co.uk/LED-TV-BRACKETS-cs199...

Oh and don't fit a power socket behind the TV, run the power cable to a socket elsewhere.

[anonymous-user]

megaphone said:

Oh and don't fit a power socket behind the TV, run the power cable to a socket elsewhere.

Sorry - can you expand? Our power socket will be inside the recess as there is nowhere else it can go.

[anonymous-user]

megaphone said:

Getting the bracket right is important if recessing. Remember you need enough gap at the top to lift the TV on/off the bracket. You need enough gap at the bottom to get a screwdriver or allen key on the retaining screws. (or you just leave it hanging without them). Some brackets have a retaining bar that slides in from the side, no good if your TV is recessed.

I've used a brackets similar to this in a recessed situation, it has pull cords that hang down the back to release the TV. Do your research, I just googled this as an example.

http://www.bracketsrus.co.uk/LED-TV-BRACKETS-cs199...

Thanks for the tip - that bracket in the next size up look perfect.

[Sowler]

Get a cantilever bracket then you can just flush mount the bulky rear of the screen and bracket into a recess that is smaller than the screen size. Then all you need to do is pull out the bracket mount your tv hook and cables up and then just push it flush against the wall.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151252458809?redirect=mo...

[anonymous-user]

Sowler said:

Get a cantilever bracket then you can just flush mount the bulky rear of the screen and bracket into a recess that is smaller than the screen size. Then all you need to do is pull out the bracket mount your tv hook and cables up and then just push it flush against the wall.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151252458809?redirect=mo...

TV needs to go into the recess to avoid heat from the fire.

[megaphone]

garyhun said:

megaphone said:

Oh and don't fit a power socket behind the TV, run the power cable to a socket elsewhere.

Sorry - can you expand? Our power socket will be inside the recess as there is nowhere else it can go.

Yes the socket and the plug top will sit too proud and stop you from flush mounting the TV. Also you need to make sure the socket will not foul the bracket. Far easier to run a flex to a socket elsewhere if possible.

A switched spur is always an option instead of a socket, less protruding, but can still foul the bracket so placement is important.

[anonymous-user]

The socket itself is already recessed into the blockwork so when we add the fireboard it will be even more recessed so we won't have any issues.

[pmanson]

40mm around the sides of mine (or it will be once it's finished). Got a good amount of space behind it as well.

One suggestion from me - if you need to get a mount that moves get the one that looks like a scissor lift. I got the cantilever arm and it's caused a lot of headaches getting everything lined up!

Edited by pmanson on Wednesday 2nd April 12:16

Edited by pmanson on Wednesday 2nd April 12:17

[anonymous-user]

I'm hoping to avoid cantilever but if I need to go that route I have seen some with adjustment features!!

Famous last words!