Oil change
Oil change
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Discussion

caduceus

Original Poster:

6,126 posts

296 months

Thursday 3rd April 2014
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The initial message was deleted from this topic on 04 February 2015 at 15:29

AV8

363 posts

209 months

Thursday 3rd April 2014
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Land Rover ERR 3340.

K4TRV

1,819 posts

282 months

Thursday 3rd April 2014
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SILICONEKID346HP

14,997 posts

261 months

Thursday 3rd April 2014
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caduceus said:
Is this available from the high st? Or only online? As I ideally want to change it tomorrow, or Saturday at the latest..
Just bought 10 litres ,that Halfords 20w50 is just a basic oil ,some of the old boys like to use the oils from 50 years ago ,for some reason my dad uses it in is Cresta . There are good 20w50 oils like Valvoline VR1 .

This will be going in with the new sump

http://classicoils.absolutewebhosting2.co.uk/Produ...

Pupp

12,968 posts

302 months

Thursday 3rd April 2014
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caduceus said:
Thanks. After rooting around on t'interweb, I found another: Fram PH 5443. Does that sound about right?
Is one any better than the other?
The Fram will be fine if that's what you can get locally - they were scarce a few months ago due to a manufacturer glitch. There's also a decent Mahle equivalent but I forget the number - will cross reference from the two you've mentioned 'though. All as good as so take your pick.

Oil is a different matter! hehe

carsy

3,019 posts

195 months

Thursday 3rd April 2014
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If your going to a Landy dealer, just tell them its for a Rover V8, they will know what you need.

pwd95

8,459 posts

268 months

Thursday 3rd April 2014
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A decent quality semi synth will be fine. 10/40 or 20/50 or 15/50.

Pupp

12,968 posts

302 months

Thursday 3rd April 2014
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Or 5w50 smile

carsy

3,019 posts

195 months

Thursday 3rd April 2014
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Pupp said:
Or 5w50 smile
yes


Pupp

12,968 posts

302 months

Thursday 3rd April 2014
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caduceus said:
I noticed when I limped her home Monday evening, she was only showing 60psi from cold. I take it thats low....?
It's a lot higher than mine has ever read; the gauges are notoriously fickle. Sounds fine.

SILICONEKID346HP

14,997 posts

261 months

Thursday 3rd April 2014
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carsy said:
yes
0w50 equals rattley engine eek

Pupp

12,968 posts

302 months

Thursday 3rd April 2014
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It was 5w50 that was suggested. Comparedc to which, 20w50 will flow less readily at low temperatures but be equivalently viscous at higher ones. Daz is confused (as usual)

SILICONEKID346HP

14,997 posts

261 months

Thursday 3rd April 2014
quotequote all
Pupp said:
It was 5w50 that was suggested. Comparedc to which, 20w50 will flow less readily at low temperatures but be equivalently viscous at higher ones. Daz is confused (as usual)
I`m not confused ,these engines were never designed to run on 5w50 .. Engine tolerances are nothing like modern engines .

Why would you need 5 from cold ?

Pupp

12,968 posts

302 months

Thursday 3rd April 2014
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Because I want the oil to be pumped where it's needed as soon as it can be; why in the name of the wee man would you not want that? And you're confusing engine architecture with manufacturing tolerances; just because the basic engine was designed decades ago does not mean recent iterations of it were knocked out on ancient tooling.

SILICONEKID346HP

14,997 posts

261 months

Thursday 3rd April 2014
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Pupp said:
Because I want the oil to be pumped where it's needed as soon as it can be; why in the name of the wee man would you not want that? And you're confusing engine architecture with manufacturing tolerances; just because the basic engine was designed decades ago does not mean recent iterations of it were knocked out on ancient tooling.
Well why not go for 0w50 then it will flow even faster !



bsdnazz

762 posts

283 months

Thursday 3rd April 2014
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Fernies put 10w60 Mobil 1 in my Chim when it was serviced last September.

Over the years it's had a range of oils but mostly 5/10w50/60 and combinations thereof.

The car has done 75,000 miles so the engine will be run in soon!

Pupp

12,968 posts

302 months

Thursday 3rd April 2014
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SILICONEKID346HP said:
Well why not go for 0w50 then it will flow even faster !
Because the wider the range, the less stable the chemistry and less resilient the oil to breakdown in use. I want the oil to retain its film strength at both ends of its likely usage envelope and drive it all year round doing pretty high mileages. Why don't you just run a straight grade 50, applying your own logic?

SILICONEKID346HP

14,997 posts

261 months

Thursday 3rd April 2014
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I`m happy with 10 or 15 at he bottom .. That's what I`m going to stick with . I used the 20w50 mineral (does it no harm) for a long time ,I did not want bore glaze on a new engine .

I still think 5 is a bit thin ,There has been so many posts where owners have complained after a service where thin oil has been used ,the engine does sound noisy .




Pupp

12,968 posts

302 months

Friday 4th April 2014
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What do you mean by 'thin'? Do you have the first idea what the various figures used to describe multigrades actually mean?

QBee

22,485 posts

174 months

Friday 4th April 2014
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If you use the oil selector on Castrol's website, it recommends 10w60 fully synthetic oil for all Chimaeras.

I have been using it since last year on a newly manufactured engine and have had no visible oil pressure problems.

Called Castrol the other day to discuss, and their expert said yes, it is the right oil for an old design of engine like the RV8. He said the 10 dealt more than adequately with the need to get the oil flowing around the engine on a cold morning, while the 60 dealt with the risk of the oil going too thin on a hot day while being hammered around Brands Hatch or up an alpine pass. The better technology of the fully synthetic oil dealt with the stresses of the RV8 engine far better than mineral oil in his opinion.

He also said that if you are relying on extra zinc to protect your engine better, you are doing so because the zinc is the last resort coating between bare rubbing metal surfaces, i.e. oil has already failed in every other way and the owner had completely neglected to keep the oil anywhere near the markers on the dipstick. High zinc came from when oils didn't have today's chemistry, and today's oils don't fail to protect your engine like the old oils did.