Modifications for ease of maintenance
Discussion
So with my 350 FHC, I reckon Im too far away from it ever being a resto back to original condition, so in a way it makes it easier in that I can modify where suitable ...
one of the things I want to do is to modify for ease of future maintenance, so Im looking for any pointers in this respect, examples will be things like adding a master battery cut-off, and putting wing nuts on the rear of the main metal dash panel for easy removal, and attaching door cards with proper bolts through into a captive nut (not those annoying useless press clips !) ...
I also need to come up with a better mounting for the fuse and relay boards, and EFI ECU ...
Im also looking to simplify where possible so I'll rip out any extra wiring (although thankfully Karl's already done quite a bit of this).
I also like the idea of re-fixing the sills using some form of self-tapper ...
Any other tips ?
one of the things I want to do is to modify for ease of future maintenance, so Im looking for any pointers in this respect, examples will be things like adding a master battery cut-off, and putting wing nuts on the rear of the main metal dash panel for easy removal, and attaching door cards with proper bolts through into a captive nut (not those annoying useless press clips !) ...
I also need to come up with a better mounting for the fuse and relay boards, and EFI ECU ...
Im also looking to simplify where possible so I'll rip out any extra wiring (although thankfully Karl's already done quite a bit of this).
I also like the idea of re-fixing the sills using some form of self-tapper ...
Any other tips ?
Techniques:
Do your grease nipples on the driveshafts when you have to adjust the handbrake calipers.
2 days before you do any jobs underneath, paint nuts, bolts etc with used brake fluid.
Replace engine oil every 3000 miles.
Enhancements:
Connect a proper earth strap from the instruments to the engine.
If you have a series 1 car, replace the rubber fuel lines front-back with cunifer ones.
Do your grease nipples on the driveshafts when you have to adjust the handbrake calipers.
2 days before you do any jobs underneath, paint nuts, bolts etc with used brake fluid.
Replace engine oil every 3000 miles.
Enhancements:
Connect a proper earth strap from the instruments to the engine.
If you have a series 1 car, replace the rubber fuel lines front-back with cunifer ones.
On my 280, I plumbed a Fram PH-1 filter (hanging down) into the oil cooler. Made oil filter changes quick and not messy.
Also mine came with a cheesy battery cut-off that attached to the battery with a green plastic knob. Which liked to loosen up while driving. Replaced it with a marine isolation switch. Nothing to loosen, it's on or off. Grady
Also mine came with a cheesy battery cut-off that attached to the battery with a green plastic knob. Which liked to loosen up while driving. Replaced it with a marine isolation switch. Nothing to loosen, it's on or off. Grady
all sounding good - thanks for these ... although not sure Im ready to cut the inspection hatch in the rear floor just yet !
Im also going to write a manual for my car - so I understand it, and one day for the next owner - might create a customised version of the 'bible' with relevant notes/diagrams/pages added ...
Im also going to write a manual for my car - so I understand it, and one day for the next owner - might create a customised version of the 'bible' with relevant notes/diagrams/pages added ...
earlybay said:
Im also going to write a manual for my car - so I understand it, and one day for the next owner - might create a customised version of the 'bible' with relevant notes/diagrams/pages added ...
This was discussed a couple of years ago and personally i still think its a good idea...Times change and if you don't change with them then you get left behind...ZigaI scone the advice to relocate the oil filter so it hangs downwards.
When the 390 was new, it came from the factory with an oil-cooler that was plumbed in without any form of thermostat, the oil cooler was stuck right at the front of the car in the best place to catch stones, rodents etc.
I relocated the oil cooler to behind the fan, I added a thermostat into the oil circuit and moved the oil filter to the left hand side of the fibreglass crossmember under the front of the bonnet. I added an oil temperature gauge.
NOTE my car is manual steering so there is room for all this, check before you start if you have power.
Around that time I got a leak from the top hose where the bonnet was scraping rubber off every time it was opened. I cut the swan neck into two, added a couple of MGB top hoses and rerouted this under the crossmember.
I added a fuel pressure gauge, the sender is in the cold-start injector feed.
Russ
When the 390 was new, it came from the factory with an oil-cooler that was plumbed in without any form of thermostat, the oil cooler was stuck right at the front of the car in the best place to catch stones, rodents etc.
I relocated the oil cooler to behind the fan, I added a thermostat into the oil circuit and moved the oil filter to the left hand side of the fibreglass crossmember under the front of the bonnet. I added an oil temperature gauge.
NOTE my car is manual steering so there is room for all this, check before you start if you have power.
Around that time I got a leak from the top hose where the bonnet was scraping rubber off every time it was opened. I cut the swan neck into two, added a couple of MGB top hoses and rerouted this under the crossmember.
I added a fuel pressure gauge, the sender is in the cold-start injector feed.
Russ
earlybay said:
Im also going to write a manual for my car - so I understand it, and one day for the next owner - might create a customised version of the 'bible' with relevant notes/diagrams/pages added ...
You mean like this one... started in 1995 and still adding to it!
Plus three box files of service history from me and the previous owners...
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