Using a 10 stop filter - what's your process?
Discussion
Interested in various effects I bought into the Hitech Filter system along with its 10 stop PRO filter . My first attempts involved:
Put camera on tripod
Set camera to use remote trigger
Compose picture using manual setting, autofocus noting speed required for the shot.
Switch to manual focus and carefully mount filter holder and filter
Use phone app to suggest speed
Set speed on camera with manual control
Take photo using remote
Say "insert expletive here" at result. Usually fuzzy or out of focus.
I've changed the process to now only change to manual focus after the filter is mounted to eliminate the chance of me inadvertently turning the focus when mounting the filter system, which has produced better results, but still hit or miss, the exposure time being the issue now. I usually take several shots using different times, just in case but not a scientific method really.
Does anybody have a fool proof way of using this type of filter I can adopt or try please?
Put camera on tripod
Set camera to use remote trigger
Compose picture using manual setting, autofocus noting speed required for the shot.
Switch to manual focus and carefully mount filter holder and filter
Use phone app to suggest speed
Set speed on camera with manual control
Take photo using remote
Say "insert expletive here" at result. Usually fuzzy or out of focus.
I've changed the process to now only change to manual focus after the filter is mounted to eliminate the chance of me inadvertently turning the focus when mounting the filter system, which has produced better results, but still hit or miss, the exposure time being the issue now. I usually take several shots using different times, just in case but not a scientific method really.
Does anybody have a fool proof way of using this type of filter I can adopt or try please?
The key thing is that the filters are never exactly 10 stops, they vary from 9 and a bit to over 10. You'll have to experiment to find out just how dark yours really is.
My symptoms in the early days were a blue cast on colour images, principally as a result of underexposure.
The issue you have is that if you measure and calculate a 10 stop change and your filter is 10.5 stops, then you have to add a decent amount more exposure for that last 0.5 of a stop.
Practice on a really bright day to do the testing to find out how close to 10 stops your filter your filter is and this makes it easier when using the filter in anger. As with a lot of things, the histogram is your friend.
One caveat - if you're an Olympus user, I think you can just set the live view function and watch the picture develop. I don't know if Nikon and Canon have this functionality in their live view modes - maybe it's only on a non-SLR.
My symptoms in the early days were a blue cast on colour images, principally as a result of underexposure.
The issue you have is that if you measure and calculate a 10 stop change and your filter is 10.5 stops, then you have to add a decent amount more exposure for that last 0.5 of a stop.
Practice on a really bright day to do the testing to find out how close to 10 stops your filter your filter is and this makes it easier when using the filter in anger. As with a lot of things, the histogram is your friend.
One caveat - if you're an Olympus user, I think you can just set the live view function and watch the picture develop. I don't know if Nikon and Canon have this functionality in their live view modes - maybe it's only on a non-SLR.
I've set my workflow out on a blog piece on long exposures: http://www.markmullenphotography.co.uk/blog/2012/8...
Some good tips here thanks, I'll certainly try mounting the filter assembly then sliding the filter in - the reason I have been sliding the filter into the assembly then mounting the lot onto th camera is the filter has a rubber gasket making it stiff to slide in. I'll give it a go and see how I get on thanks.
Mark, your workflow looks very detailed, are you ok with me printing it off to give it a go please? I didn't even know I had to lock the mirror up, is that for light leakage?
My camera is the D5100 Nikon - I'll see if the live view allows me to see with a 10 stop filter in place - I get a fant image, I'll see if there is a setting or switch to turn it up!
Mark, your workflow looks very detailed, are you ok with me printing it off to give it a go please? I didn't even know I had to lock the mirror up, is that for light leakage?
My camera is the D5100 Nikon - I'll see if the live view allows me to see with a 10 stop filter in place - I get a fant image, I'll see if there is a setting or switch to turn it up!
I'd leave the camera in AF until all the jostling of the lens is done. A lens in MF will wind itself in at a much lighter nudge than when the AF is locked.
I think the Olympus reference was about their neat trick of having a live bulb mode where the picture develops in real time on the preview screen. Like live view, but runs for the course of the exposure!
vaderface said:
CVP said:
One caveat - if you're an Olympus user, I think you can just set the live view function and watch the picture develop. I don't know if Nikon and Canon have this functionality in their live view modes - maybe it's only on a non-SLR.
Yep live view works on Canon DSLR. AndWhyNot said:
I think the Olympus reference was about their neat trick of having a live bulb mode where the picture develops in real time on the preview screen. Like live view, but runs for the course of the exposure!
Yes, that's the fella. It's a mode I have yet to try as haven't been out on a long exposure shoot in a while.After latest holiday where I got knackered carrying D3 & big zoom lenses around all day and not getting enough dedicated wildlife shooting time I flogged an old lens and reinvested the proceeds in the Olympus OMD E-M1 with the 12-40 lens. Currently trialling this outfit see if I can get decent results with the smaller sensor and lower weight.
I accept there are limitations with the micro 4/3rds format but it will be interesting to see if it meets my needs for my photography right now. Sitting next to the D3, it's tiny.
Just some feedback, did some test shots today, just of the car with the clouds moving overhead so nothing spectacular but they were generally ok in terms of focus, exposure and movement in the clouds.
First, I compared putting the 10 stop filter into the holder then into the camera with putting holder on camera then adding filter. It was definitely easier sliding the filter I to the holder while assembled on the camera, and I didn't alter the focus either so thanks for that tip, that's the way I'll do it.
With the filter in place The liveview does allow a faint image, but not enough to work with and I can not find a setting to turn it up, so have to focus and compose before adding the filter.
The strange thing was the phone app which gave me a exposure time of one second when it needed 10 seconds plus - can't understand that unless the app is rubbish.
Anyway everybody thanks for your help, you've moved me along a bit on this learning journey
First, I compared putting the 10 stop filter into the holder then into the camera with putting holder on camera then adding filter. It was definitely easier sliding the filter I to the holder while assembled on the camera, and I didn't alter the focus either so thanks for that tip, that's the way I'll do it.
With the filter in place The liveview does allow a faint image, but not enough to work with and I can not find a setting to turn it up, so have to focus and compose before adding the filter.
The strange thing was the phone app which gave me a exposure time of one second when it needed 10 seconds plus - can't understand that unless the app is rubbish.
Anyway everybody thanks for your help, you've moved me along a bit on this learning journey
With something like clouds or other subjects which are effectively at infinity, you could try putting all your clobber on the lens, then turn it to infinity, then back a few mm. As long as you're on f5.6 or above you should be about right.
Get a feel for it. After all, when you're driving a car you don't need to consult a mobile phone and an 'app' to tell you when to change gear
Get a feel for it. After all, when you're driving a car you don't need to consult a mobile phone and an 'app' to tell you when to change gear
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