What is this thread
Discussion
but am in a generous mood 
Not sure why I'm venturing here but...
If you're wanting to replace it, you need to look at the way that seals. The sealing face is inside the housing, not on the shoulder. You might struggle to find a bung that will seat right on the lip of the housing due to the shape of the casting. What is it you are trying to achieve (is that a pic of your car)?
If you're wanting to replace it, you need to look at the way that seals. The sealing face is inside the housing, not on the shoulder. You might struggle to find a bung that will seat right on the lip of the housing due to the shape of the casting. What is it you are trying to achieve (is that a pic of your car)?
I want to put a 1/8th npt oil temp sender in it . A reducing bush will not get it in the oil flow .
I was thinking about using this ,is barbed ok what ever that means . I can get it drilled with a 1/8th NPT tapping and it will push the sender further in . I could use a washer to seal or is PTFE ok ,does it need ground
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/231062347658?limghl...
I was thinking about using this ,is barbed ok what ever that means . I can get it drilled with a 1/8th NPT tapping and it will push the sender further in . I could use a washer to seal or is PTFE ok ,does it need ground
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/231062347658?limghl...
No, it won't seat properly - look at the business end of the original. If you are relocating the pressure sender for the gauge as Spend described for you, then there is an identical plug already tapped for 1/8NPT in the bottom of the front cover (where the sender is currently fitted). Just swap them over (or put the temperature sender there)
Pupp said:
No, it won't seat properly - look at the business end of the original. If you are relocating the pressure sender for the gauge as Spend described for you, then there is an identical plug already tapped for 1/8NPT in the bottom of the front cover (where the sender is currently fitted). Just swap them over (or put the temperature sender there)
This ^ just rebuilt my timing cover with new gears and often wondered what the more RV8 knowledgeable meant by the odd sealing arrangement till I stripped my one down for cleaning then all became clear 
I would also suggest changing the O,rings on said bungs once they have been disturbed mine were all hard and brittle inc the pressure relief valve cap 
use no sealer on the O rings a dab of Vaseline or oil will do Daz 
Daz if you take those bungs to a machine shop/tool maker then I am confident they will be able to drill and tap those to whatever size you require 
Edited by Sardonicus on Friday 11th April 09:52
Pupp said:
No, it won't seat properly - look at the business end of the original. If you are relocating the pressure sender for the gauge as Spend described for you, then there is an identical plug already tapped for 1/8NPT in the bottom of the front cover (where the sender is currently fitted). Just swap them over (or put the temperature sender there)
I was going to do it that way but there are various ground wires and a big fat engine the chassis cable in the way . .Is that the normal place for these cables .Can`t i just ptfe the reducer in? why do i need to rely on the rubber seal . There is not that much pressure .
Sardonicus said:
This ^ just rebuilt my timing cover with new gears and often wondered what the more RV8 knowledgeable meant by the odd sealing arrangement till I stripped my one down for cleaning then all became clear I would also suggest changing the O,rings on said bungs once they have been disturbed mine were all hard and brittle inc the pressure relief valve cap use no sealer on the O rings a dab of Vaseline or oil will do Daz Daz if you take those bungs to a machine shop/tool maker then I am confident they will be able to drill and tap those to whatever size you require
Most of the sealing arrangement is only applicable if using the LR oil cooler stub.... without it do not think of using that second seal it is to block off the internal gallery to form an external loop for the oil cooler. I would also suggest changing the O,rings on said bungs once they have been disturbed mine were all hard and brittle inc the pressure relief valve cap use no sealer on the O rings a dab of Vaseline or oil will do Daz Daz if you take those bungs to a machine shop/tool maker then I am confident they will be able to drill and tap those to whatever size you require Edited by Sardonicus on Friday 11th April 09:52
The LR uses a weird connector on the side like a pipe going in with the end blocked and an o-ring to blank off the gallery to the pump as it is pushed in. Near the end of the pipe are sideways drillings to allow the returning oil from the cooler to enter the filter assembly. Without cooler oil from pump just comes up the gallery that is in line with the bung ~ so in TVR do not obstruct that in anyway at all.
The whole arrangement is designed for the weird hydraulic arrangement ~ as long as the M20 threads seal all is good for TVR.
Sorry to labour the point ~ but there seems a lot of confusion trying to match up the LR seating / sealing arrangement when it's only actually needed for the oil cooler connections.
SILICONEKID346HP said:
Took the bung out so I can find the thread ,A local instruments repairers told are me it is metric but they can`t make me one .
What next ..
WTF are you doing with the oil pressure switch in that location!!!!! It goes straight in at the top of the timing cover (which is 1/2"UNF)...What next ..
How can you expect people to help you when you have made changes 'behind their backs'.... If you modify something it's down to you to know about it ~ you can't expect other folks to guess what has been done can you?
Is this a long term case of confusion between the oil pressure switch & pressure sender?
spend said:
Most of the sealing arrangement is only applicable if using the LR oil cooler stub.... without it do not think of using that second seal it is to block off the internal gallery to form an external loop for the oil cooler.
The LR uses a weird connector on the side like a pipe going in with the end blocked and an o-ring to blank off the gallery to the pump as it is pushed in. Near the end of the pipe are sideways drillings to allow the returning oil from the cooler to enter the filter assembly. Without cooler oil from pump just comes up the gallery that is in line with the bung ~ so in TVR do not obstruct that in anyway at all.
The whole arrangement is designed for the weird hydraulic arrangement ~ as long as the M20 threads seal all is good for TVR.
Sorry to labour the point ~ but there seems a lot of confusion trying to match up the LR seating / sealing arrangement when it's only actually needed for the oil cooler connections.
Does this mean i can carry on with are i am doing?just fitting a reducing bush or should i put the bung back in and forget it .The LR uses a weird connector on the side like a pipe going in with the end blocked and an o-ring to blank off the gallery to the pump as it is pushed in. Near the end of the pipe are sideways drillings to allow the returning oil from the cooler to enter the filter assembly. Without cooler oil from pump just comes up the gallery that is in line with the bung ~ so in TVR do not obstruct that in anyway at all.
The whole arrangement is designed for the weird hydraulic arrangement ~ as long as the M20 threads seal all is good for TVR.
Sorry to labour the point ~ but there seems a lot of confusion trying to match up the LR seating / sealing arrangement when it's only actually needed for the oil cooler connections.
The original idea was to take your advice and remove the oil pressure switch fit the "Tee Piece" then fit the pressure switch on the end and the oil pressure sender in to the side looking downwards .The oil temp sender was going in the pressure senders place at he bottom 1/8npt . The ground cable and other smaller ground cables have put me off .
The idea was to get a bush then screw the oil pressure sender in then fit the temp sender at the bottom .
Now i`m being told its not a good idea ,it may not seal because of the parallel thread . The most important thing of all could it effect anything in side ,cause damage .
Edited by SILICONEKID346HP on Friday 11th April 11:35
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