Vixen door hinge adjustment
Discussion
The in-out of the door on it's leading edge is generally set on the shell on elongated slots that are on the external edge of the hinge box (do make sure that the hinge is set into the hinge box correctly, TVR used shims of sheet fibreglass behind the hinge to do this), but also note that the inner hinge bolts fitted as OE have had the heads dressed off so that the alloy hinge can rotate correctly, EITHER mimic these bolts OR dress the alloy hinge to allow the space for the bolt heads/washers, IF you do not pay attention to this the front wing will flex and craze the gelcoat when the door is shut!!.
The for/aft-up down is set on the hinge, with the door having over size holes and a bolt/spring washer/minor washer/penny washer on each bolt point BUT a later spreader plate as fitted to late M series should be used in place of the penny washers to give better 'clamping force' over the whole area rather than just around the holes.
On the door catch there is a point where the sprung lock clasp (set in the B post) can be set too far in, and the door lock only latches on the 'safety' catch, this is a common issue for the Vixen where the door keeps popping open.
Adrian@
The for/aft-up down is set on the hinge, with the door having over size holes and a bolt/spring washer/minor washer/penny washer on each bolt point BUT a later spreader plate as fitted to late M series should be used in place of the penny washers to give better 'clamping force' over the whole area rather than just around the holes.
On the door catch there is a point where the sprung lock clasp (set in the B post) can be set too far in, and the door lock only latches on the 'safety' catch, this is a common issue for the Vixen where the door keeps popping open.
Adrian@
Edited by Adrian@ on Tuesday 13th May 13:13
Adrian@ said:
The in-out of the door on it's leading edge is generally set on the shell on elongated slots that are on the external edge of the hinge box (do make sure that the hinge is set into the hinge box correctly, TVR used shims of sheet fibreglass behind the hinge to do this), but also note that the inner hinge bolts fitted as OE have had the heads dressed off so that the alloy hinge can rotate correctly, EITHER mimic these bolts OR dress the alloy hinge to allow the space for the bolt heads/washers, IF you do not pay attention to this the front wing will flex and craze the gelcoat when the door is shut!!.
The for/aft-up down is set on the hinge, with the door having over size holes and a bolt/spring washer/minor washer/penny washer on each bolt point BUT a later spreader plate as fitted to late M series should be used in place of the penny washers to give better 'clamping force' over the whole area rather than just around the holes.
On the door catch there is a point where the sprung lock clasp (set in the B post) can be set too far in, and the door lock only latches on the 'safety' catch, this is a common issue for the Vixen where the door keeps popping open.
Adrian@
Mine Popped open on Friday Adrian.. in fairness though I was sliding sideways over a kerb grass run off area. dad thought I was trying to get out The for/aft-up down is set on the hinge, with the door having over size holes and a bolt/spring washer/minor washer/penny washer on each bolt point BUT a later spreader plate as fitted to late M series should be used in place of the penny washers to give better 'clamping force' over the whole area rather than just around the holes.
On the door catch there is a point where the sprung lock clasp (set in the B post) can be set too far in, and the door lock only latches on the 'safety' catch, this is a common issue for the Vixen where the door keeps popping open.
Adrian@
Edited by Adrian@ on Tuesday 13th May 13:13
N.
heightswitch said:
Adrian@ said:
The in-out of the door on it's leading edge is generally set on the shell on elongated slots that are on the external edge of the hinge box (do make sure that the hinge is set into the hinge box correctly, TVR used shims of sheet fibreglass behind the hinge to do this), but also note that the inner hinge bolts fitted as OE have had the heads dressed off so that the alloy hinge can rotate correctly, EITHER mimic these bolts OR dress the alloy hinge to allow the space for the bolt heads/washers, IF you do not pay attention to this the front wing will flex and craze the gelcoat when the door is shut!!.
The for/aft-up down is set on the hinge, with the door having over size holes and a bolt/spring washer/minor washer/penny washer on each bolt point BUT a later spreader plate as fitted to late M series should be used in place of the penny washers to give better 'clamping force' over the whole area rather than just around the holes.
On the door catch there is a point where the sprung lock clasp (set in the B post) can be set too far in, and the door lock only latches on the 'safety' catch, this is a common issue for the Vixen where the door keeps popping open.
Adrian@
Mine Popped open on Friday Adrian.. in fairness though I was sliding sideways over a kerb grass run off area. dad thought I was trying to get out The for/aft-up down is set on the hinge, with the door having over size holes and a bolt/spring washer/minor washer/penny washer on each bolt point BUT a later spreader plate as fitted to late M series should be used in place of the penny washers to give better 'clamping force' over the whole area rather than just around the holes.
On the door catch there is a point where the sprung lock clasp (set in the B post) can be set too far in, and the door lock only latches on the 'safety' catch, this is a common issue for the Vixen where the door keeps popping open.
Adrian@
Edited by Adrian@ on Tuesday 13th May 13:13
N.
heightswitch said:
Mine Popped open on Friday Adrian.. in fairness though I was sliding sideways over a kerb grass run off area. dad thought I was trying to get out
N.
Must be a TVR thing, N.
My lasting memory of the Speed 12 is watching it going round Donington using the passenger door as a battering ram mid corner,
Best Adrian,
Nobody reacts on your helpful info so probably they are not in this proces (yet).
I am so please some extra info for this dutchman building a lovely English car.
"""[quote=Adrian@]The in-out of the door on it's leading edge is generally set on the shell on elongated slots that are on the external edge of the hinge box.""
I do understand this.
(do make sure that the hinge is set into the hinge box correctly, TVR used shims of sheet fibreglass behind the hinge to do this),
What is " set correctly" ? That the hinge rest against the B post inside the box so all the load is not on the edge (with the slotted holes?
But what if I have to push the hinge at the max corner of the slotted holes ( so outside). Hopefully yu understand what I mean.
""but also note that the inner hinge bolts fitted as OE have had the heads dressed off so that the alloy hinge can rotate correctly, EITHER mimic these bolts OR dress the alloy hinge to allow the space for the bolt heads/washers, IF you do not pay attention to this the front wing will flex and craze the gelcoat when the door is shut!!.""
I have normal bolts and they do not touch the alu hinge when rotating. There is enough room between head and hinge but I do not use washers (do not think necessary).
""The for/aft-up down is set on the hinge, with the door having over size holes and a bolt/spring washer/minor washer/penny washer on each bolt point BUT a later spreader plate as fitted to late M series should be used in place of the penny washers to give better 'clamping force' over the whole area rather than just around the holes.""
So setting is on the doors only. But why slotted holes in the edge of the B post?.
""On the door catch there is a point where the sprung lock clasp (set in the B post) can be set too far in, and the door lock only latches on the 'safety' catch, this is a common issue for the Vixen where the door keeps popping open. Adrian@""
Yes I noticed this when trail fixing the doors.
Overall my doors do hang nicely but one or another corner is popping out off line with the body, which I cannot get right now.
Thanks for the extra info, very helpful. Possibly also for others.
Hans
Nobody reacts on your helpful info so probably they are not in this proces (yet).
I am so please some extra info for this dutchman building a lovely English car.
"""[quote=Adrian@]The in-out of the door on it's leading edge is generally set on the shell on elongated slots that are on the external edge of the hinge box.""
I do understand this.
(do make sure that the hinge is set into the hinge box correctly, TVR used shims of sheet fibreglass behind the hinge to do this),
What is " set correctly" ? That the hinge rest against the B post inside the box so all the load is not on the edge (with the slotted holes?
But what if I have to push the hinge at the max corner of the slotted holes ( so outside). Hopefully yu understand what I mean.
""but also note that the inner hinge bolts fitted as OE have had the heads dressed off so that the alloy hinge can rotate correctly, EITHER mimic these bolts OR dress the alloy hinge to allow the space for the bolt heads/washers, IF you do not pay attention to this the front wing will flex and craze the gelcoat when the door is shut!!.""
I have normal bolts and they do not touch the alu hinge when rotating. There is enough room between head and hinge but I do not use washers (do not think necessary).
""The for/aft-up down is set on the hinge, with the door having over size holes and a bolt/spring washer/minor washer/penny washer on each bolt point BUT a later spreader plate as fitted to late M series should be used in place of the penny washers to give better 'clamping force' over the whole area rather than just around the holes.""
So setting is on the doors only. But why slotted holes in the edge of the B post?.
""On the door catch there is a point where the sprung lock clasp (set in the B post) can be set too far in, and the door lock only latches on the 'safety' catch, this is a common issue for the Vixen where the door keeps popping open. Adrian@""
Yes I noticed this when trail fixing the doors.
Overall my doors do hang nicely but one or another corner is popping out off line with the body, which I cannot get right now.
Thanks for the extra info, very helpful. Possibly also for others.
Hans
The boxes are fitted to the post during build BUT the hinges are rigid and the slots enable the whole hinge to move in or out along the slot, the rear of the hinge should be shimmed to allow the whole assembly to spread any load evenly (remember OE build of all this, is anti-rattle type washers,cut down penny washers , spring washers and normal nuts overlaid with dumdum). The slots allow the leading edge of the door to be moved in or out ...fine tuning of this was done in-house by shimming the alloy hinge plate/door with sanding paper...lots of that around in production at the time.
Adrian@
I am in the process rebuilding my hinges and re hanging my doors ...
Adrian@
I am in the process rebuilding my hinges and re hanging my doors ...
In case it helps,
I made a set of ally plates for my (new) doors, 4 as lock plates (much better than washers as adrian says) and several others in various thicknesses to shim the doors in and out to match body lines. Discovered one of the 'boxes' in the body had been reglassed (BADLY!) and hinge was out of line, took a bit of fixing up.
Passenger door needed more shimming than driver's - don't know if this is from the original moulds or not
It's a pain to get the doors right - if I fitted them once.....you need deep breaths and patience!
I didn't have a problem with bolt heads fouling the hinge, but I remember I did use slim head bolts found in my workshop spares piles.
Think "Hinges FIXED, doors adjust" as the way to go.
I made a set of ally plates for my (new) doors, 4 as lock plates (much better than washers as adrian says) and several others in various thicknesses to shim the doors in and out to match body lines. Discovered one of the 'boxes' in the body had been reglassed (BADLY!) and hinge was out of line, took a bit of fixing up.
Passenger door needed more shimming than driver's - don't know if this is from the original moulds or not
It's a pain to get the doors right - if I fitted them once.....you need deep breaths and patience!
I didn't have a problem with bolt heads fouling the hinge, but I remember I did use slim head bolts found in my workshop spares piles.
Think "Hinges FIXED, doors adjust" as the way to go.
Oke oke.
More info so easier fitting????
I have upgraded my hinges, thicker pin, lubricating hole so tight and strong for coming years (not for taxi use as someone mentioned earlier)
1 thing unclear.
As I have fixed the hing in the pocket, how do I know that it is flat resting against the B pillar? And the thickness of the shims?
And when fixed it should be impossible to move it for and after in the slotted edge?
By the way I missed one hole in the B post for the passenger side top hinge?????????
Monday car.
Hans
More info so easier fitting????
I have upgraded my hinges, thicker pin, lubricating hole so tight and strong for coming years (not for taxi use as someone mentioned earlier)
1 thing unclear.
As I have fixed the hing in the pocket, how do I know that it is flat resting against the B pillar? And the thickness of the shims?
And when fixed it should be impossible to move it for and after in the slotted edge?
By the way I missed one hole in the B post for the passenger side top hinge?????????
Monday car.
Hans
ANY boxes that had shims in from OE would of needed to have them to be replaced, or use a piece of blutak to work it out ...the top hinge (ON Vixen and M ..not S or Taimar) is single bolt (later cars this is upgraded to 3/8 rather than 5/16 bolts SO have larger heads.
Adrian@
IMHO you need washers under the heads of the bolts ...again to spread load evenly.
Edited as I am doing this job now!
Adrian@
IMHO you need washers under the heads of the bolts ...again to spread load evenly.
Edited as I am doing this job now!
Edited by Adrian@ on Saturday 17th May 11:09
Thanks Adrian, makes sense - bolts in my hinges are 5/16 (UNF), and have put two in top hinges as well as bottom.
I know that there are different head depths around - my bolt collection is from quite a few stripped Triumphs, Fords etc.
I also made spreader plates for back of hinge boxes as well, to try to spread the loads as much as possible. Doesn't fit quite flat on some because of 'rough' GRP, but is still better than washers I reckon.
I know that there are different head depths around - my bolt collection is from quite a few stripped Triumphs, Fords etc.
I also made spreader plates for back of hinge boxes as well, to try to spread the loads as much as possible. Doesn't fit quite flat on some because of 'rough' GRP, but is still better than washers I reckon.
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