Steering PAS pressure or return hose couplings
Discussion
I may or may not have to take off a PAS hose.
The metal lengths seem to be split and joined in the middle by a coupling that some refer to as a "quick disconnect".
Does anyone know how these come apart? They have hexes on them but they may be compression joints on the outsides that are not meant to be ordinarily removed, so not sure, and surely a threaded coupling would not be referred to as QD.
I have a b1tch of a coolant leak apparently just behind the pipes and I need them out of the way and one hose may need replacing,too.
Thanks!
The metal lengths seem to be split and joined in the middle by a coupling that some refer to as a "quick disconnect".
Does anyone know how these come apart? They have hexes on them but they may be compression joints on the outsides that are not meant to be ordinarily removed, so not sure, and surely a threaded coupling would not be referred to as QD.
I have a b1tch of a coolant leak apparently just behind the pipes and I need them out of the way and one hose may need replacing,too.
Thanks!
I find it odd that on other forums they are referred to as quick disconnect, so a bit reluctant to start spannering away only to discover that I could just have pushed and pulled, so to speak!
See here: http://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-c...
See here: http://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-c...
Edited by 996TT02 on Sunday 27th April 18:58
The fittings are quick connect rather than quick disconnect. Disconnecting is a mild pain and faff.
To install, the pipe is simply pushed into the end of the coupling section and thats it. There is a brass coloured tail that catches on a cage inside the coupling to secure and seal.
To remove, you need to unscrew one end of the coupling. Once it is loose the pipe along with the end of the coupling and the securing cage can be pulled free.
Splitting the coupling is the pain. The removable portion can be difficult to budge and of course only one end of the coupling is able to actually spin. The other section of the coupling is securely attached to the end of the other pipe and any twisting of it twists the pipe as well risking damage to it.
It can normally be done by securing a brake pipe type spanner on the fixed end, getting it into a position where it cannot rotate and then pressing the pipe and spanner against the car to keep it all in place before trying to free the removable piece. If you don't brace the pipe the force tries to bend the pipe downwards which also isn't great. You may be able to position the non turning spanner directly down and brace it while simultaneously pressing upwards against the body shell to keep the pipe secure and turning the other piece but it mostly needs more of a push in my experience. This way tends to end up with both spanners twisting which isn't good for one pipe section.
Once its all free. You need to remove the cage from the end of the pipe (push a socket down the middle to spread the feet out enough) then the portion of the coupling still attached and reassemble the complete coupling by inserting the cage and then screwing down the housing.
To install, the pipe is simply pushed into the end of the coupling section and thats it. There is a brass coloured tail that catches on a cage inside the coupling to secure and seal.
To remove, you need to unscrew one end of the coupling. Once it is loose the pipe along with the end of the coupling and the securing cage can be pulled free.
Splitting the coupling is the pain. The removable portion can be difficult to budge and of course only one end of the coupling is able to actually spin. The other section of the coupling is securely attached to the end of the other pipe and any twisting of it twists the pipe as well risking damage to it.
It can normally be done by securing a brake pipe type spanner on the fixed end, getting it into a position where it cannot rotate and then pressing the pipe and spanner against the car to keep it all in place before trying to free the removable piece. If you don't brace the pipe the force tries to bend the pipe downwards which also isn't great. You may be able to position the non turning spanner directly down and brace it while simultaneously pressing upwards against the body shell to keep the pipe secure and turning the other piece but it mostly needs more of a push in my experience. This way tends to end up with both spanners twisting which isn't good for one pipe section.
Once its all free. You need to remove the cage from the end of the pipe (push a socket down the middle to spread the feet out enough) then the portion of the coupling still attached and reassemble the complete coupling by inserting the cage and then screwing down the housing.
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