cylinder head water rails

[Superjuiced]

Ive just pulled mine off and they are looking a bit rusty inside. I have looked at one company selling some stainless steel water rails and nearly fell over when I saw the cost. I'm contemplating making some myself if time allows or just flushing the old ones out with some acid and reusing them. If I reuse the old ones Im worried about rust deposits eventually getting into the rad and causing issues, and making new ones will be a pain as I have the pipe but will have to locate or make up the little connecting flanges. Any thoughts welcome, also does anyone have any idea what sort of pressure the cooling system is operating at? Thanks

[pmessling]

I started making some, but really need to finish them off, i had the flanges laser cut, I made a jig up for the correct angle of the connecting pipes to the main rail. turned the end pipes and the bleed flanges to use the original bleed fittings. Unfortunately mine are 37mm pipe instead of the 35mm as the 35mm pipe i had when bending it creased.









This was the first batch of flanges which where wrong, had them redone with a smaller main hole.
[URL=http://s100.photobucket.com/user/pmessling/media/8ced8f4b.jpg.html][IMG]
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m26/pmessling/8...

You also need to put a bead on the ends of the pipes. i made a beading tool, which lasted a while but not long enough. so brought a aircraft grade beading tool from the states.



You could try a pipe cleaning pushed inside and some cleaner to clean the old ones out.

[Superjuiced]

Thanks. did you use stainless steel for the flanges? I was thinking about reusing the old flanges and boring them out slightly and just making a slightly longer feed pipes going through, The flanges were the biggest concern I had about the job as I have the tooling to do everything else.

What grade stainless steel did u use and what wall thickness pipe/tube have you gone for on the main rail? I didnt want to use anything too heavy as I dont think the pressure could justify it and thought the only reason that the old ones are so thick is for corrosion.

[pmessling]

Yes was stainless, i can't remember what grade it was be either 304 or 316, i'd say i brought 316 as it offers better corrosion resistance either way shouldn't make much difference to which one is used. As for wall thickness i can't remember but 1.2mm rings a bell. I also consided longer pipes as would make spark plug changing easier. makes no difference to removing the headers as the water rail has to come off any way.

You could easily open up the originals welding stainless to normal is easy, but you might find if you open it up to much you risk the O ring between the head and rail.

I gave up on them as i was having touble welding the flanges to the little pipes, as i was a fully certificated class one tig welder but it was never renewed and lost my touch, i have been doing more practice on little things again so will have to find some time to finish them off, like riding a bike, but of practice and soon up to scratch again.

[pmessling]

Think the working pressure is around the 12-14bar mark so the pipe could be reduced. I was just keeping to original spec.

Once i have a garage i will finish them off, although will need to buy another TIG welder. i sold my ESAB one as i never used it at home, usually use the works one.

[Superjuiced]

I'd happily get them welded up for u, one the lads who works in for me is a tig wizard

[GT6k]

If you want then tidied up then look at getting the coated, Zircotec did mine for about £35 quid each and for a bit more you could have them in colour.