Taimar Cough Splutter Misfire
Discussion
Entered the Midland Automobile Club Classic Run yesterday. Did close to 100 miles down very wet back roads with no problems other than the rare hesitation when I put my foot down.
Got back to Shelsey hill climb and it coughed and backfired all the way up the hill. Continued to mis-fire as we coasted down the hill.
Left it in the car park for 30 minutes, came back and it started first time, running perfectly all the way home, a journey time of 20 minutes.
It has a new coil, electronic ignition, plugs, fuel tank cleaned out.
Does anybody have any theories what the problem may be?
Got back to Shelsey hill climb and it coughed and backfired all the way up the hill. Continued to mis-fire as we coasted down the hill.
Left it in the car park for 30 minutes, came back and it started first time, running perfectly all the way home, a journey time of 20 minutes.
It has a new coil, electronic ignition, plugs, fuel tank cleaned out.
Does anybody have any theories what the problem may be?
Thanks for the quick replies.
It still has the original ford large filter with new element, not a pancake filter.
I did put the heat sink paste on when putting the electronic ignition module on.
It only does it when standing on a steeper gradient than normal, which Shelsey is. It did exactly the same thing two years ago in the same place and has behaved perfectly since.
I wondered if it had anything to do with the fuel pump, which is the original mechanical type.
As i tried to coax it up the hill I found that only using a small amount of throttle at least kept it running, albeit not on all cylinders.
If I pushed on the throttle it then coughed, banged, spat back.
Very puzzling especially the perfect ride home after being left for a while.
It still has the original ford large filter with new element, not a pancake filter.
I did put the heat sink paste on when putting the electronic ignition module on.
It only does it when standing on a steeper gradient than normal, which Shelsey is. It did exactly the same thing two years ago in the same place and has behaved perfectly since.
I wondered if it had anything to do with the fuel pump, which is the original mechanical type.
As i tried to coax it up the hill I found that only using a small amount of throttle at least kept it running, albeit not on all cylinders.
If I pushed on the throttle it then coughed, banged, spat back.
Very puzzling especially the perfect ride home after being left for a while.
Probably wrong but do you have a return to tank from the carbs ? I had a system that did and on the flat it was fine but show it a hill and the weight of the fuel returning to the rear mounted tank sucked the fuel pressure to zero??? It was very odd. Or may be the extra effort of sucking fuel up hill is drawing air in through bad lines or pump diaphragm . Richard
If it was misfiring going down the hill as well as up then it may not be fuel related. Most of the ignition is new but you didn't mention the leads. If these are past their best and got damp they could contribute to the problem. Leaving the car stand for half an hour may have allowed the heat to dry them out. I'm probably completely wrong but either way I hope you get to the bottom of it soon.
Chris
Chris
I had a similar problem once, caused by the fuel line to close to the exhaust manifold.
Car ran fine, but given some welly it caused a vapour lock, which then wouldnt clear unless the car was stopped and re started.
Just rerouted the fuel line problem gone forever.
Also if your fuel line is held by cable ties, check they're not choking it anywhere, again only manifested itself when at full tilt.
Car ran fine, but given some welly it caused a vapour lock, which then wouldnt clear unless the car was stopped and re started.
Just rerouted the fuel line problem gone forever.
Also if your fuel line is held by cable ties, check they're not choking it anywhere, again only manifested itself when at full tilt.
good luckHad the same on my previous 3000S, with more or less the same set-up as yours (Sold it prior knowing the cause......)
My now 3000S does not have any of these problems, it does however have a new-ish carb. So, maybe a reconditioning/cleaning of the carb is in order ? (sets of Burton' PLUS redline contain all you need)
btw; if not icing, my money is on the power valve.....
My now 3000S does not have any of these problems, it does however have a new-ish carb. So, maybe a reconditioning/cleaning of the carb is in order ? (sets of Burton' PLUS redline contain all you need)
btw; if not icing, my money is on the power valve.....
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