More woes-ignition barrel 3000M
Discussion
Went to pick patched up exhaust and manifolded motor today...but came back once again tvr-less. The red electrical lead from ignition barrel where you put key in has come away-how i dont know as i drove it there so alright when it went in- got told a combination of 1978 security and lack of use meant snap off bolts and a pig of a job to get ignition barrel out which will involve removing the steering column. They are decent blokes at the garage but am unhappy at this new expense (which they may reduce i suspect as not technically my fault) so any ignition barrel experiences or useful knowledge will be appreciated.
Have driven 15 miles in the thing since project purchase in September..irony is more i see it languishing the more I want to use it !
Have driven 15 miles in the thing since project purchase in September..irony is more i see it languishing the more I want to use it !
Is it just the wire that has snapped off or the bolts securing the steering column ?
Just the wire can't be much of a problem, if its the bolts....you haven't told us you got the barrel at the wheel, or lower down ?
15 miles since September ? mmm..technically you've missed only 4 weeks, prior that you had better use for a canoe.........
(just trying to cheer you up !)
btw; hows the exhaust ?
Just the wire can't be much of a problem, if its the bolts....you haven't told us you got the barrel at the wheel, or lower down ?
15 miles since September ? mmm..technically you've missed only 4 weeks, prior that you had better use for a canoe.........
(just trying to cheer you up !)
btw; hows the exhaust ?
If a wire as fallen off it may be possible to solder it back on to the terminal on the end of the ignition barrel switch. If the terminal is futch then it's possible to replace just the electrical switch - it's an insert that can be replaced by removing 2 grub screws (assuming these aren't seized and need drilling out etc). The insert came from a Spitfire late 1500 and they're available from Rimmer Bros and probably others for around £25 (they only have 4 wires compared to the original 8 but only 4 are needed). Unless the damage is much more than implied then you shouldn't need to replace the complete ignition barrel (which needs the shear bolts to be drilled out).
Having replaced mine (switch insert) with the steering column on the bench it was fairly easy. If I had to do it with the steering column in situ I would think that it's possible but it's the sort of job where you would be upside down in the footwell with your feet in the air!
A non-TVR garage may not want to go to these lengths and simply charge you for taking everything apart and replacing the easy bits (i.e complete ignition barrel). If you're a non-DIY'er you may have to take the hit though.
HTH
GB
Having replaced mine (switch insert) with the steering column on the bench it was fairly easy. If I had to do it with the steering column in situ I would think that it's possible but it's the sort of job where you would be upside down in the footwell with your feet in the air!
A non-TVR garage may not want to go to these lengths and simply charge you for taking everything apart and replacing the easy bits (i.e complete ignition barrel). If you're a non-DIY'er you may have to take the hit though.
HTH
GB
No need to take the column and barrel off to change the switch is there? We changed ours on the 1600M when it was getting so worn it was causing the ignition to get turned off while running.
Just get a new ign switch, and join the broken red wire onto the new wire on the new switch.
Wasn't all that hard to do in situ as far as I remember. I think we did it in situ anyway.
Just get a new ign switch, and join the broken red wire onto the new wire on the new switch.
Wasn't all that hard to do in situ as far as I remember. I think we did it in situ anyway.
Wow some very speedy and welcome advice chaps will note it all down they can't work on it till tues...forgot to say the barrel is way down in the footwell so the feet in the air issue as mentioned would be likely and no I don't think they fancy soldering in that position.
A bit baffled how the red wire snapped/ came off in the first place as have started the thing about ten times in those fifteen miles, mainly on driveway to impress visitors of that V6 roar, which is when manifold & exhaust noise issue came to fruition that sent it to the garage in the first place !
A bit baffled how the red wire snapped/ came off in the first place as have started the thing about ten times in those fifteen miles, mainly on driveway to impress visitors of that V6 roar, which is when manifold & exhaust noise issue came to fruition that sent it to the garage in the first place !
Yeah at least one has snapped off i am led to understand Gadge...so guess as others have said will prob need to stump up again. Still can't grasp how the wire came away in first place tho & it did happen on their watch so to speak so guess/ hope a significant labour discount may be given I have already geared plenty of cash their way since purchase.
I tend to get confused by the term snap-off bolts but as I understand it there are 2 sets in play here. The steering column is held to the bulkhead with a bracket on the bulkhead and there's a clamp around the column that's fixed to this bracket with a couple of snap-off bolts. When I took my column out one of these was already snapped and I snapped the other one but in the end no big deal - it came apart and I put new bolts in. The other snap-offs hold the ignition barrel in place and these are almost certainly both snapped off. To replace the barrel these will probably need drilling out.
However, you shouldn't need to change the complete barrel. The electrical bit that needs replacing is at the other end of the ignition barrel to the key so shouldn't be that far into the footwell. If the broken red wire is right down in the footwell then maybe it has just come out of the connector - in which case it should be a dead easy fix.
GB
However, you shouldn't need to change the complete barrel. The electrical bit that needs replacing is at the other end of the ignition barrel to the key so shouldn't be that far into the footwell. If the broken red wire is right down in the footwell then maybe it has just come out of the connector - in which case it should be a dead easy fix.
GB
I had the same problem on my Taimar, and soldering to the switch tag at the back of the barrel fixed it for a while. Eventually this gave way so I replaced just the switch with a part from Rimmer Bros. (GB has it dead right here)
The grub screws were easy to get out with the column and barrel still in place, and my biggest problem was that the plug to connect to the 'loom' was different. But with only 4 wires to connect it was easy to swap the new cables to the old plug.
Hope this helps.
PS If you are in the Sheffield area I'm happy to help out. Tony
The grub screws were easy to get out with the column and barrel still in place, and my biggest problem was that the plug to connect to the 'loom' was different. But with only 4 wires to connect it was easy to swap the new cables to the old plug.
Hope this helps.
PS If you are in the Sheffield area I'm happy to help out. Tony
Thanks chaps its still at the garage in Basford, Nottingham the guy who runs it has been racing this b.h. weekend (ahem ...not in my non -starting 3000m i hasten to add). So will call tmrw & get an update plus take in some printed responses of your experiences which my help. Been at a classic car night in Shardlow Leicestershire tnt but took the Mgb Gt. Always handy hvg a spare classic.....
I have got a few ignition barrels off Triumph columns, even with the snap off bolts. As they are waisted to quite a small diameter, the bolts aren't actually all that tight compared to a fully torqued 'normal' one.
Using a small drill (hand or electric) you can drill a dent in the outside of each bolt shoulder, and then using a drill centre punch at an angle in the dent, you can hammer the bolt until it loosens. Same as a slotted bolt/screw that's been damaged/stripped.
I feel confident posting this because it takes a while and some care, so it's not a viable theft strategy, but it does allow removal/refit without any damage to the lock or clamp.
Using a small drill (hand or electric) you can drill a dent in the outside of each bolt shoulder, and then using a drill centre punch at an angle in the dent, you can hammer the bolt until it loosens. Same as a slotted bolt/screw that's been damaged/stripped.
I feel confident posting this because it takes a while and some care, so it's not a viable theft strategy, but it does allow removal/refit without any damage to the lock or clamp.
Edited by RCK974X on Wednesday 7th May 06:13
arhTVR said:
I had the same problem on my Taimar, and soldering to the switch tag at the back of the barrel fixed it for a while. Eventually this gave way so I replaced just the switch with a part from Rimmer Bros. (GB has it dead right here)
The grub screws were easy to get out with the column and barrel still in place, and my biggest problem was that the plug to connect to the 'loom' was different. But with only 4 wires to connect it was easy to swap the new cables to the old plug.
Hope this helps.
Tony
I did exactly the same with my 3000S, as you say the grub screws were easily removed with the barrel still in place.The grub screws were easy to get out with the column and barrel still in place, and my biggest problem was that the plug to connect to the 'loom' was different. But with only 4 wires to connect it was easy to swap the new cables to the old plug.
Hope this helps.
Tony
Nige
Well it seems to have been fixed they got local auto electrician in and found a way round not dismantling entire steering rack so will pick up tmrw and see how things go.Been trying to load up before / after pics re purchase of said 3000M but size seems to be only for one pic per msge? Hopefully after shot should be below this in a minute......
[url]Edited by stockpie on Thursday 8th May 19:54
stockpie said:
Well it seems to have been fixed they got local auto electrician in and found a way round not dismantling entire steering rack so will pick up tmrw and see how things go.
Edited by stockpie on Thursday 8th May 19:54
Fingers crossed for decent weather and no more problems!
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