Headlight Pod dropping
Discussion
Hi All
I recently bought a replacement pod motor and linkage. I fitted it up and couldn't get rid of teh fact that at the top of teh travel the pod drops back by about 1". I spoke to Robsport who I got the motor from and they presumed that there might be a bit of give in the motor mechanism so they sent me a replacement.
However, having fitted up the replacement I am getting the same problem.
There is no give in the linkage to speak of and only appeared to be a small about in the motor arm.
The original motor seemed to have gone because I think I adjusted the link arm so that at the top of the pods travel the motor arm had gone past the point of being in line with the linkage. So in fitting and adjusting the new motor and linkage I have made sure that they don't get near being in line.
I'm wondering whether at the top of the travel the linkage and motor arm should be close to in line because then any small movement in the motor output shaft will only mean a minute movement in the linkage. But I don't want to get anywhere close to locking and blowing another motor!!!
Any thoughts?
Adi
I recently bought a replacement pod motor and linkage. I fitted it up and couldn't get rid of teh fact that at the top of teh travel the pod drops back by about 1". I spoke to Robsport who I got the motor from and they presumed that there might be a bit of give in the motor mechanism so they sent me a replacement.
However, having fitted up the replacement I am getting the same problem.
There is no give in the linkage to speak of and only appeared to be a small about in the motor arm.
The original motor seemed to have gone because I think I adjusted the link arm so that at the top of the pods travel the motor arm had gone past the point of being in line with the linkage. So in fitting and adjusting the new motor and linkage I have made sure that they don't get near being in line.
I'm wondering whether at the top of the travel the linkage and motor arm should be close to in line because then any small movement in the motor output shaft will only mean a minute movement in the linkage. But I don't want to get anywhere close to locking and blowing another motor!!!
Any thoughts?
Adi
marcus1875 said:
Mines do that too. Passes an MOT tho so havent worried about it. But if anyone knows how to fix it....
marcus
Yes, but it may only pass the MOT if they both do it so that they remain aligned!! Only one of mine drops and so alignment was originally rubbish. Managed to adjust it for the MOT but it's really embarrassing watching it drop on the right when the left is fine!!!marcus
A.
Just had another look at it and noticed that there is a stud protruding out from the top of the housing which has a screwdriver slot in it and a lock nut. It almost looks like it must come from the shaft of the motor and I wondered if it was attached to what must be a worm gear inside. I unscrewed it by a turn and re-locked it. But TBH I'm not sure if it made much difference.
I also noticed that there was a bit of slack in the pod pivot bolts so I tightened them up. I had actually swapped them for stainless steel ones. The only problems being that they don't have the wire locking hole and they were setscrews rather than bolts which meant that the pods were running against thread. Also, the bolts were just the right length so that they could be tightened up and the plain section of the shank was just long enough for the pod to run on. So I have swapped them back.
Overall though I notice that the RH one comes up quickly but drops at the top and also seems to rise slightly at the bottom. Now that I cannot fathom! The LH one, by contrast, comes up slower and doesn't move at either end of the travel.
A.
I also noticed that there was a bit of slack in the pod pivot bolts so I tightened them up. I had actually swapped them for stainless steel ones. The only problems being that they don't have the wire locking hole and they were setscrews rather than bolts which meant that the pods were running against thread. Also, the bolts were just the right length so that they could be tightened up and the plain section of the shank was just long enough for the pod to run on. So I have swapped them back.
Overall though I notice that the RH one comes up quickly but drops at the top and also seems to rise slightly at the bottom. Now that I cannot fathom! The LH one, by contrast, comes up slower and doesn't move at either end of the travel.
A.
On my (older) 2.8, the linkages are almost straight when pods up - so they are at the top of their travel, and only a little amount of play.
Having taken a motor to bits to fix it, the limit switches for top and bottom are driven by the large cog wheel, and so are NOT adjustable by moving a tooth (or at least I can't see how). The motor I took apart had TWO sets of holes for the pins though, so is adjustable between two 'set' positions. (the pins which drive the switches)
I would double check the arm is aligned right, as I reckon (but not entirely sure) it's possible to reassemble 180 degrees out and arm will be at a different angle relative to the pins ?
If you take the cover off the side, you can see how the pins work the switches and that should give you a better idea.
of course later motors might have different details....
I thought the slot and nut were to adjust the motor end float.
Having taken a motor to bits to fix it, the limit switches for top and bottom are driven by the large cog wheel, and so are NOT adjustable by moving a tooth (or at least I can't see how). The motor I took apart had TWO sets of holes for the pins though, so is adjustable between two 'set' positions. (the pins which drive the switches)
I would double check the arm is aligned right, as I reckon (but not entirely sure) it's possible to reassemble 180 degrees out and arm will be at a different angle relative to the pins ?
If you take the cover off the side, you can see how the pins work the switches and that should give you a better idea.
of course later motors might have different details....
I thought the slot and nut were to adjust the motor end float.
RCK974X said:
I thought the slot and nut were to adjust the motor end float.
They are. Stripdown sequence here:http://www.wedgeneering.co.uk/images/Lucas%20Pod%2...
The nylon gear is keyed to the 'output' shaft so the relationship between the park switch and the crank arm is fixed, you can't offset by one tooth as Wooly suggests, unfortunately.
ETA: I'd be checking to see what state the end of the output shaft, and the corresponding hole in the crank arm, are in. There are two flats on the shaft and the crank arm hole corresponds; they often wear out of shape allowing the arm to be permanently out of position, even though tight on the shaft. Alternatively the arm slips around on the shaft under load which will cause alignment problems.
The only reason the length of the crank arm is adjustable is to make the pod sit flush with the bodywork when closed... if you try to alter the beam height with it then the pod won't close flush.
Edited by Wedg1e on Monday 5th May 11:39
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