Machinist required to make splined gears.
Discussion
mikeveal said:
Thanks, but not really what I'm after.
By the looks of their website, they make CV joints and props. They will outsource other stuff.
I need a custom coupler made with splined inner and outer.
You don't say what the coupler is for. If you need it to deal with movement of the axle etc then they most likely can help.By the looks of their website, they make CV joints and props. They will outsource other stuff.
I need a custom coupler made with splined inner and outer.
Have you asked them?
Steve
mikeveal said:
Thanks, but not really what I'm after.
By the looks of their website, they make CV joints and props. They will outsource other stuff.
I need a custom coupler made with splined inner and outer.
A one-off custom splined coupler will be extremely expensive to machine from scratch. Try to adapt a more standard coupler would make far more senseBy the looks of their website, they make CV joints and props. They will outsource other stuff.
I need a custom coupler made with splined inner and outer.
I've emailed them to see if they can adapt a Type 9 gearbox input shaft to fit a Ford Puma 1.7 Zetec SE which includes grinding down the nose by 3mm in diametre and recutting the splines from x23 1" diam to 1x17 at 20mm Diam. I'll let you know if they can do it and what my views are on cost/lead time.
Thanks for the contact, much appreciated.
Thanks for the contact, much appreciated.
ugg10 said:
I've emailed them to see if they can adapt a Type 9 gearbox input shaft to fit a Ford Puma 1.7 Zetec SE which includes grinding down the nose by 3mm in diametre and recutting the splines from x23 1" diam to 1x17 at 20mm Diam. I'll let you know if they can do it and what my views are on cost/lead time.
Thanks for the contact, much appreciated.
Would a custom clutchplate mother be a cheaper solgvThanks for the contact, much appreciated.
ugg10 said:
I've emailed them to see if they can adapt a Type 9 gearbox input shaft to fit a Ford Puma 1.7 Zetec SE which includes grinding down the nose by 3mm in diametre and recutting the splines from x23 1" diam to 1x17 at 20mm Diam. I'll let you know if they can do it and what my views are on cost/lead time.
Thanks for the contact, much appreciated.
Would a custom clutchplate mother be a cheaper solution to the splines? the nose being ground smaller is relatively simple compared to the splines. I'm sure someone has done it before or used a different fomoco crank.Thanks for the contact, much appreciated.
Justaredbadge, thanks for the comment. The 1.7 seems to be unique in the ford engine back catalogue in having a 17mm sigot bearing socket in the end of the crank, all others seem to have 21mm including the 1.6/1.4/1.25 version of the same engine.
I am pursuing three options at the moment
1) crank cavity bore to 21mm, seems to be the usual route, using a sierra clutch plate and spigot bearing (may be possible in situ with a magdrill but it is a forged crank as standard so pretty tough material)
2) grind down the gearbox input shaft to 12mm and use a sierra clutch plate and small spigot bearing (available)
3) the ultimate option, get the gearbox input shaft renanufactured to fit the puma clutch and small spigot bearing
I am pursuing three options at the moment
1) crank cavity bore to 21mm, seems to be the usual route, using a sierra clutch plate and spigot bearing (may be possible in situ with a magdrill but it is a forged crank as standard so pretty tough material)
2) grind down the gearbox input shaft to 12mm and use a sierra clutch plate and small spigot bearing (available)
3) the ultimate option, get the gearbox input shaft renanufactured to fit the puma clutch and small spigot bearing
I need something like this. If you can't see the pic, it's PH, try refreshing the page.
The left hand piece is 1" top to bottom to give you an idea of scale.
The right hand piece mates with the left hand piece to form the adaptor.
It converts the rear crown and pinion drive unit from a BMW R100 motorcycle to accept a propshaft from a Yamaha diversion.
The BMW prop won't fit in my chassis without major welding, so I need to convert the BMW box to accept the Yamaha prop.
My kit manufacturer did try to weld the back end of the BMW prop shaft onto the front end of Yamaha shaft. It lasted ~14,000 miles before the shaft sheared (yes, sheared). This should be a better solution.
And yeah, I know it's not going to be cheap.
Thanks for the help and suggestions so far.
I'm in Hampshire too. You could try http://www.robinson-race-cars.co.uk on the A33 between Basingstoke and Reading. Andy resplined some driveshafts fom a few years back.
Guy
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