Rear driveshaft needed - Jag /SD1?
Discussion
Just discovered my o/s/r wheel was only being held on by a split pin - the driveshaft thread being completely worn and the bolt could be pushed over the threads without being screwed on 
Car was only booked in for minor work ready for a weekends hooning in Wales, now it looks like I won't be going (Griff STILL waiting for engine...), unless I can get a driveshaft to match .... (shouldn't need driveshaft u/j's as all 4 were stripped and replaced recently..).
Thanks in advance for any pointers or if anyones got (a Jag?) one going spare...
Paul.
Car was only booked in for minor work ready for a weekends hooning in Wales, now it looks like I won't be going (Griff STILL waiting for engine...), unless I can get a driveshaft to match .... (shouldn't need driveshaft u/j's as all 4 were stripped and replaced recently..).
Thanks in advance for any pointers or if anyones got (a Jag?) one going spare...
Paul.
Thanks for the comments guys.
Its actually been drilled three times and could have come off at anytime
I have had the car checked regularly during the last 6m due to doing numerous jobs and racking up the mileage but it suddenly deeloped massive play that we thought the wheel bearings had disintegrated..
I have made a few calls and discovered its not a Jag (or any other car) part but was specially made up for the bigger Wedges from c. '86 onwards so I'm on the hunt....
Its actually been drilled three times and could have come off at anytime
I have had the car checked regularly during the last 6m due to doing numerous jobs and racking up the mileage but it suddenly deeloped massive play that we thought the wheel bearings had disintegrated..
I have made a few calls and discovered its not a Jag (or any other car) part but was specially made up for the bigger Wedges from c. '86 onwards so I'm on the hunt....
Agreed - and the splines on the flange might be suspect by now if it's been rattling about a while.
What you really need is the stub axle - I have one but the other end is "shafted" as it were because it was chewed up by the UJ yoke.
I don't know if your experience is an advert for split-pinning, or the reverse? As we all re-use the stub axle, and that's the bit that's stripped, I think it probably means split-pinning is better safe than sorry.
What you really need is the stub axle - I have one but the other end is "shafted" as it were because it was chewed up by the UJ yoke.
I don't know if your experience is an advert for split-pinning, or the reverse? As we all re-use the stub axle, and that's the bit that's stripped, I think it probably means split-pinning is better safe than sorry.
adam quantrill said:
I don't know if your experience is an advert for split-pinning, or the reverse? As we all re-use the stub axle, and that's the bit that's stripped, I think it probably means split-pinning is better safe than sorry.
I had a stub axle break on my 350 last year - the stub was severely weakened as It had been drilled twice for split pins. The shaft broke where the drillings were. The only reason the wheel didn't come off altogether was that the holes were at slightly different points along the shaft stopping it unwinding from the hub nut - it was all held on by about 2 turns of thread inside the nut. Saying that I still prefer a split pin to secure the nut - you just have to make sure that if you take it off that it goes back on the same so you can line up the holes on the nut and shaft again so you don't have to redrill.
B@man said:
Have you tried bell Hill - I got a hub from them but no driveshaft.
Thanks Simon, Yes - Tom is having a look for me first thing...gmw9666 said:
Glen - aside from possibly Hallsie (thanks Dave) doesn't look great...TVRleigh_BBWR said:
You may want to check the bearing, as when my nut came loose, it destroyed a new bearing I just fitted.
Hi Leigh - yes bearings shot as a result...Adam/Ron - I think split pin is extra insurance and therefore good but not in lieu of no thread/bolt moving freely.
Original post should have said nearside NOT offside (surprised no one corrected...shame on you)
Check out Steve strange on ebay. http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Steve-Strange007?_trksid=... he breaks wedges maybe he's got something ? It might not be listed but try calling
I'm not surprised the thread is dead .. the split pin has been drilled through the thread of the nut .. we were always told to use a roll pin and drill through the nyloc part on the end of the nut (it's trickier and takes some patience but does work), that way all the thread in the nut is left intact. I'd also be having a word with whoever had the nut off last, there's surely no way all that shaft thread damage was caused in just one event..?
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