Discussion
^ Wot 'e sez.
If it's original style it'll be two big cables, running transverse across the car to a pair of studs and nuts again transversely opposed around 1 inch apart, behind the coils and a bit lower down. The original blade fuse bridges the studs. Can't remember if the original fit had a black plastic casing or if I fitted that to mine...
If it's original style it'll be two big cables, running transverse across the car to a pair of studs and nuts again transversely opposed around 1 inch apart, behind the coils and a bit lower down. The original blade fuse bridges the studs. Can't remember if the original fit had a black plastic casing or if I fitted that to mine...
It is behind the engine in the center just behind the coil packs. The fuse will either be a 100amp blade or a 125amp inside the black case (the lid will open by pushing on the rear side).
You can clearly see it here in the picture ukkid linked me to when discussing starter motor solenoids:

Although if you say you just changed the alternator and didn't see it then I perhaps it has been relocated or removed altogether. That isn't unheard of on these cars.
You can clearly see it here in the picture ukkid linked me to when discussing starter motor solenoids:
Although if you say you just changed the alternator and didn't see it then I perhaps it has been relocated or removed altogether. That isn't unheard of on these cars.
TimJM said:
Well I'm surprised it keeps going with that in - apparently a paper clip is good as a 20amp fuse but 100amp would blow it pretty quickly, here is one with 20amps through it:
I wonder what your bigfuse wire looks like at night with your main lights/heater etc on...
Well PO was/is an electronics engineer, so you would think it was all very purposefully calculated! I wonder what your big


Tanguero said:
The big fuse only in the charging circuit for the battery, it does not protect the general electrics, so unless your battery is seriously flat I hope it wouldn't see that much current!
Not quite...The fuse is not just on the charging circuit, it will also provide power the car's electrics. For example, suppose the battery is flat, so the car was jumped to start, and then on a cold dark night all the lights, fans, heated rear windscreen/mirrors are switched on. The alternator will try to power all that, which is why the fuse may blow, unless it's been bypassed when the alternator cable may now be exceeding its specification - and start melting.
The standard alternator is rated 110A, but I think I've seen 125A alternatives mentioned. So although the fuse isn't protecting the general electrics, it does protect the alternator cabling, and therefore the car.
ukkid35 said:
Tanguero said:
The big fuse only in the charging circuit for the battery, it does not protect the general electrics, so unless your battery is seriously flat I hope it wouldn't see that much current!
Not quite...The fuse is not just on the charging circuit, it will also provide power the car's electrics. For example, suppose the battery is flat, so the car was jumped to start, and then on a cold dark night all the lights, fans, heated rear windscreen/mirrors are switched on. The alternator will try to power all that, which is why the fuse may blow, unless it's been bypassed when the alternator cable may now be exceeding its specification - and start melting.
The standard alternator is rated 110A, but I think I've seen 125A alternatives mentioned. So although the fuse isn't protecting the general electrics, it does protect the alternator cabling, and therefore the car.
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