AUC E60 M5 test drive and negotiating

[Beknown]

How can I get the best first impression from the M5 (I’m a little scared of SMG to be honest!), what are the best settings to use and how should I operate the gearbox? I was thinking P500 Sport and S5.

Do I need to lift off the throttle for upshifts or downshifts? What RPM should I change gear at? If the car gets smoother as the oil heats up does this show something is worn?

If the history does not suggest it’s been replaced beforehand, do you think it’s reasonable to ask for a new clutch and flywheel to be fitted for free as a condition of sale? From what I read it’s impossible to judge clutch life on these cars, one minute they can be operating perfectly and then bang red cog of death as the clutch expires.

If the dealer won’t budge do you think they’d entertain fitting a clutch at cost price? That should be about £1000 in parts if my research is correct. I really don’t want to buy one of these cars and have a £3k bill a few weeks after ownership…

If the clutch has been recently done then do you think most dealers will be happy to offer a 2nd year AUC warranty and next service for free?

[Shaoxter]

Beknown said:

How can I get the best first impression from the M5 (I’m a little scared of SMG to be honest!), what are the best settings to use and how should I operate the gearbox? I was thinking P500 Sport and S5.

- For normal driving I would use P500 and S5 manual. For M mode you really should experience P500 Sport and S6, DSC off
- P500 Sport is a little too sensitive when taking off at the lights, etc.
- Never use auto mode.

Beknown said:

Do I need to lift off the throttle for upshifts or downshifts? What RPM should I change gear at? If the car gets smoother as the oil heats up does this show something is worn?

- Lift slightly for upshifts if you want a smoother gear change, but not completely off the throttle.
- Downshifts rev match automatically, but why would you be on the throttle for downshifts?
- 8250 rpm
- I wouldn't base any impressions on when the car is cold, it can be a bit clunky. Never push the car until it's warmed up.

Beknown said:

If the history does not suggest it’s been replaced beforehand, do you think it’s reasonable to ask for a new clutch and flywheel to be fitted for free as a condition of sale?

Yes, I wouldn't buy one which hasn't had its clutch changed (or agreed as part of sale).

Beknown said:

If the clutch has been recently done then do you think most dealers will be happy to offer a 2nd year AUC warranty and next service for free?

Second year of AUC warranty should be easy to negotiate.

Don't discount non-AUC cars under 60k miles either, as long as you price in the cost of the BMW Insured Warranty.

[Lignumopus]

Beknown said:

How can I get the best first impression from the M5 (I’m a little scared of SMG to be honest!), what are the best settings to use and how should I operate the gearbox? I was thinking P500 Sport and S5.

Do I need to lift off the throttle for upshifts or downshifts? What RPM should I change gear at? If the car gets smoother as the oil heats up does this show something is worn?

If the history does not suggest it’s been replaced beforehand, do you think it’s reasonable to ask for a new clutch and flywheel to be fitted for free as a condition of sale? From what I read it’s impossible to judge clutch life on these cars, one minute they can be operating perfectly and then bang red cog of death as the clutch expires.

If the dealer won’t budge do you think they’d entertain fitting a clutch at cost price? That should be about £1000 in parts if my research is correct. I really don’t want to buy one of these cars and have a £3k bill a few weeks after ownership…

If the clutch has been recently done then do you think most dealers will be happy to offer a 2nd year AUC warranty and next service for free?

Start with those settings, I ran with those for a year, but try everything until you settle on those you like.
Lift on UP changes. Pull the paddle then lift slightly, do NOT lift before or during paddle pull.
No throttle change on downshifts.

I had my E60 for a year and I would assess the SMG as total rubbish...
This gearbox is the car's nemesis, absolutely dire.
The engine is beyond outstanding - almost or**smic (can I use that word?), just a superb powerplant.
The suspension is quite brilliant, compliant when you want it to be and makes the car shrink around you when you want it to harden up.
The steering is precise and you feel at one with the car.
All the toys are wonderful.
But the gearbox……

I had mine ten days and BANG - Red Cog of Death…the SMG had packed up.
BMW fixed FOC under warranty…but then the clutch wouldn't initialise.
Worn they said…what? After 28,000 miles?
Sheesh, give me a break.
So a new clutch was required.
Fortunately, the flywheel was OK.

I lived with this car for a year.
Fuel consumption is a shame.
VED is £500.
BMW Mondial warranty is a must.

But the gearbox, by which I mean the "gear-change" was SO bad…although deemed 'normal' by BMW, every gear change you could feel the clutch moving, not violently, but if you are at all sympathetic to mechanical stress/torture, you will not like it.

But get the car, tick the box, put it on your bucket list of things to do before you die….you will NOT regret it.
Good luck……….!

[Schermerhorn]

Lift off throttle...press up...gas on....it is smooth and you wont feel it shunt.

just press the power button and have it in S4 during test drive. Do not put it in D (automatic). It is awful.

Let the car warm up...it should be ok after 10 minutes. There is no kickdown like a normal automatic so you have to downchange manually. Then.....hold on!

Second gear is best if you want to experience the power from a lower speed. Third if you are doing 30mph or above.

Mpg is poor....but which 500bhp car is economical?

Apologies for poor grammar...half asleep and typing away on the phone

[Beknown]

Thanks for all of the replies, I have a few more questions if someone can help.

Is the iDrive servicing gospel? I mean is it possible for someone to trick it to think it’s been serviced when it hasn’t? I assume I should take the intervals with a piece of salt and go off the paperwork?

I notice the service book details brake pad changes and brake fluid etc., is it necessary to document this to maintain the BMW warranty or do they just care about oil? I did not intend to take the car to BMW for discs and pads.

Do we know the cost of a clutch and flywheel change at an independent?

[Lignumopus]

Beknown said:

...Is the iDrive servicing gospel?

No, for example anyone can easily change the MOT review date in the i-Drive.

Beknown said:

I mean is it possible for someone to trick it to think it’s been serviced when it hasn’t?

Possible

Beknown said:

I assume I should take the intervals with a piece of salt and go off the paperwork?

Definitely

Beknown said:

I notice the service book details brake pad changes and brake fluid etc., is it necessary to document this to maintain the BMW warranty or do they just care about oil?

I would have thought so..

Beknown said:

Do we know the cost of a clutch and flywheel change at an independent?

As a rough guide, I would budget for approx £2500