Discussion
Electrics is certainly not my strong point so advice appreciated please.
I know what a relay is and what it does but don't understand why there need to be so many variants. However that isn't really my question.
Can anyone tell me which relays I need in order to replace the following:
The two fuel pump relays (that appear to fail according to the occasional posts on here)
The rad cooling fans relay (Fans twitch when they reach temperature but don't cut in completely - they run fine from the overide switch)
The interior light relay - never worked in the 7 years I have had the car (comes on OK at the switch on the lamp and the door switches work when on a meter)
Any other relays which I should carry as spares if I am planning on taking the Chim abroad?
I know what a relay is and what it does but don't understand why there need to be so many variants. However that isn't really my question.
Can anyone tell me which relays I need in order to replace the following:
The two fuel pump relays (that appear to fail according to the occasional posts on here)
The rad cooling fans relay (Fans twitch when they reach temperature but don't cut in completely - they run fine from the overide switch)
The interior light relay - never worked in the 7 years I have had the car (comes on OK at the switch on the lamp and the door switches work when on a meter)
Any other relays which I should carry as spares if I am planning on taking the Chim abroad?
Edited by Tyre Tread on Monday 12th May 15:58
This is the one you need for the Fuel Pump and ECU...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121294808176#ht_453wt_74...
It has a diode in series with Pins 85 and 86 which is the important bit (and the bit that makes it more difficult to get hold of and more expensive!). If you use one without the diode it'll work (as a get you home ect) but will flatten your battery in a matter of hours when you switch off.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121294808176#ht_453wt_74...
It has a diode in series with Pins 85 and 86 which is the important bit (and the bit that makes it more difficult to get hold of and more expensive!). If you use one without the diode it'll work (as a get you home ect) but will flatten your battery in a matter of hours when you switch off.
ben2083 said:
This is the one you need for the Fuel Pump and ECU...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121294808176#ht_453wt_74...
It has a diode in series with Pins 85 and 86 which is the important bit (and the bit that makes it more difficult to get hold of and more expensive!). If you use one without the diode it'll work (as a get you home ect) but will flatten your battery in a matter of hours when you switch off.
Yep, I had this with a cheap replacement relay... apparently it keeps the circuit to the Lambda Sensors live and they run some sort of high power cycle to burn off the exhaust crap.http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121294808176#ht_453wt_74...
It has a diode in series with Pins 85 and 86 which is the important bit (and the bit that makes it more difficult to get hold of and more expensive!). If you use one without the diode it'll work (as a get you home ect) but will flatten your battery in a matter of hours when you switch off.
The fan override switch provides a ground in parallel to the otter switch (at least mine does)
If the fans run on the override switch but not on the otter switch then it sounds like it's the otter switch or the otter switch wiring.
The fan relays are standard 30Amp 4 pole NO type.
The original relays have a parallel resistor to protect the otter switch but many of the recent relays do not.
If the fans run on the override switch but not on the otter switch then it sounds like it's the otter switch or the otter switch wiring.
The fan relays are standard 30Amp 4 pole NO type.
The original relays have a parallel resistor to protect the otter switch but many of the recent relays do not.
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